just kidding, my car is slow... completely stock 88se N/A PS/AC and full interior with a driver that weighs 209lbs.

so yeah, this was pretty much a baseline run.

 

yeah, my friend's d15 civic with boltons and stock clutch with 200k on it ran 15.101


is your 6PI system working? Cat clogged maybe?

what elevation is the track there? 60' time?

it IS a 5 speed, right?

 

15.01 on a D15 can be achieve with MORE than bolt ons, specially on a 200K miles engine, are you sure it wasn't a 16.1 timeslip?

 

heh, i ALREADY adjusted for elevation... could be clogged cat. Im going to install header and presilencer and run again. I think my aux ports are working, i get decent hi rpm power. It just that i have no tuning other than stock, and from what ive been reading around here tha afr above 4k are rich as a ****. So theres definately some power to be gained up above 4k.

im not trying to run 10s, my goal is to be able to run 13s-low 14s and have all the suspension mods to go have fun with that power.


5 spd with solid trans mount.
engine torque brace

stock everything else.


reaction .782
I1 2.496
I2 7.154
I3 10.969
MPH 63.794
I4 14.292


E.T. 17.107
MPH 80.183

 

Your 60' time sucks, you need to work on your launch.

 

you aren't gonna get your high 13's low 14's and still be able to call it the same car. you will need all the boltups you can get plus possibly a stand alone and or a nice engine porting. expect low 15's to be as far as you get with bolt on's, unless you severely weight reduce ala sport compact car style

 

Yea bolt ons won't even get you into the low 14's...
You need a nice streetport dude...

 

Basically. All bolt-ons will get you into the low 15s. With an SAFC and a few other things, you can get into the 14s on a stock port. I've yet to see a streetported n/a that hasn't been able to hit 14s.

 

name of the game is forced induction

 

forced induction is the last resort for me.

im want to see how fast i can get normally aspirated... besides, my car runs on 87 all day long

cooler underhood temps, no turbo rebuilding, no boost spikes... and on and on and on.


dong get me wrong, i will one day go turbo.

 

if u go turbo u can pretty muc say bye-bye to your stock engine, so dont go investing too much into the car with bolt-ons since the n/a is a 6 port and the tII is a 4 port, i believe (correct me if im wrong it might eb the other way around) and the 13bt engine alone has got diff compression than a n/a 13b. then you'd need a turbo II tranny too. it's hard to get 13s with a n/a tranny cuz it probabaly wont be able to handle the power you'll have when you reach 13s.

 

high 14s, low 15s is a more realistic goal for me.

so far since ive posted last:

removed ac, ps, carpet, rear bins, everything under/in the dash including the radio and glove box... removed center console, door covers and arm rests.

all thats on the dash is the gauge cluster.

no speakers, no spare tire (looking into the alum one)

i kept the sicsor jack and whatnot, so at least i can jack the car up and remove the wheel if i get a flat.

soon ill remove the tar that coats the interior body.

in the mean time, im saving up for a set of tokico HPs and RB springs.

--mike

 

with the right tuning you can keep your same engine and still turbo, get a stanalone and read up on aaron cakes n/a > turbo conversion, its not impossible, and when tuned right can actually yeild better result due to the higher compression n/a rotors, but i would HIGHLY recommend a rebuild with RA apex seals before considering that, a ported n/a>turbo conversion would be hot

 

i ran a 15.2 with not cats rb catback and a cone filter launch high i launch at redline and get 2.1 60ft with no lsd. Now i have a lsd, ported TB, SAFC, stage 3 clutch kit, and a lightwieght flywheel and i'm pretty confident of a mid to high 14 sec run so don't belive that haters it can be done, i have no wieght reduction really but i have nos AC or PS and its an 86 base to its light anyway, about 2450lbs

 

bullshit! i bet if u 'bolted on' a holley carb then youd be in the 14s with a SDJ header and a good clutch with nitto 555r's i think youd be in the 14'5s

 

meh, im staying smog legal, seeing that im in cali...

my plan for my current motor is to keep it stock -- just bolt ons.

 

hey get an ported out engine, intake and good exhaust with a act street strip clutch, pass smog and run in the 15's well thats what i did anyway. in cali too and passes smog, i had my engine built at a race shop in sacramento though.

 

15's? damn thats slow. is that on a 12a?

 

ran a 16.4@84mph at LACR. This was with the gutted car, no a/c or ps mod.

altitude correction -- 15.9@87mph

that was my best run of the night. All other runs where +/- .2 seconds


stock intake, and exhaust.

 

Ok, I know that the "I1" is 0-60 ft. But what is I2, I3 and I4 for?

Jeremy

 

I3 is 1/8th mile, below that is the 1/8th mph.

 

iv seen a 1st gen with a full port and it was a n/a with a cutum body do a 12.

 

by "full port" do you mean peripheral port. A PPorted 12a in an FB doing 12's doesn't surprise me so much anymore. PPorts are a whole other game though.

 

So what is I2 and I4 for?

 

I2 is the 330 foot, I4 is the 1000 foot.

thanks for making me look it up!!