10ae w/ T04B hybrid setup
11-03-10, 02:14 PM
#1
313 whp 247 wtq 8D
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10ae w/ T04B hybrid setup
10ae w/ street port, ps1000, 1600 cc secondaries/ stock primaries, stock tmic with water injection, ls2 coils, .60 a/r T04B compressor w/ s5 ported wastegate ht side, 3 in. intake, koyo N flow, RB rev II exhaust, greddy RS bov, etc.
somewhere around 10-12 psi. Look at that torque curve!!!
somewhere around 10-12 psi. Look at that torque curve!!!
11-03-10, 02:51 PM
#2
MT did a good job. Any idea what's with the dip? Do you know the Compressor Wheel?
http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowTO4B.html
I have very similar setup, but stock ports.
http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowTO4B.html
I have very similar setup, but stock ports.
11-03-10, 02:55 PM
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313 whp 247 wtq 8D
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They could not smooth out the dip i guess. As soon as he showed me the sheet that is exactly what I asked. I do not know what wheel is on it but I am almost positive it has been clipped for quicker spool. (They clip them for quicker spool right?, noob here, still learning)
11-03-10, 03:26 PM
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Oh ok, I learn something new everyday. I am pretty sure it was clipped though. Spool time is nice though, by 3500 rpm I am at 10psi. It accelerates so smooth too, with alot of throttle or just getting up to speed slowly. Everyone said I would feel the transition from the 550 primaries to the 1600 secondaries but I haven't yet. The car just drinks gas though, but then again I can't seem to be able to get the lead out of my shoe. On my next tank I am going to TRY and cruise the whole time to see what kind of mileage it gets.
11-03-10, 11:43 PM
#7
it looked like vtec kicked in yo at 6.5k rpm lol haha, atleast thats what the graph looks like, its probably timing problem maybe.
Looks like you dont need to clip the turbo anyways, at 7k rpm it looks like it holds boost pressure well. If you up the boost to 16psi or so and the psi drops at high rpms clipping it will help hold the psi to redline, but it introduces huge lag. If you are building 10 psi at 3.5k with a clipped wheel, it would make 10 psi around 4k or so depending on the turbine wheel.
Thats pretty good power from a to4b. loving the linear torque lol. Why didnt you try running higher boost?
Looks like you dont need to clip the turbo anyways, at 7k rpm it looks like it holds boost pressure well. If you up the boost to 16psi or so and the psi drops at high rpms clipping it will help hold the psi to redline, but it introduces huge lag. If you are building 10 psi at 3.5k with a clipped wheel, it would make 10 psi around 4k or so depending on the turbine wheel.
Thats pretty good power from a to4b. loving the linear torque lol. Why didnt you try running higher boost?
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11-04-10, 12:06 AM
#8
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Just because we are on stock top mount and it is just a street car built for reliability. It was hittin' 12-13 psi on the dyno but highest I have seen on the street is 10-11 psi.
12-05-10, 03:10 PM
#16
it's probably the water injection coming on too strong at the dip point, depends if it is a simple boost activated switch or a progressive controller that ramps too drastically i suppose. if it's boost activated then they have it set to come on too late, it shouldn't be coming on within the last psi of boost.
12-06-10, 08:01 AM
#19
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
YUP. too early.. Try 10 psi or so -------- wheres that thread on Water injection and the guy who made ..was it 600 or 500+ whp on pump gas and water alone? Read it like a year ago.
12-06-10, 12:28 PM
#20
1 psi is too early as said, for the main point that it is NOT necessary until at least 6-7 psi otherwise you are using gallons just driving around casually on the street for no noticable benefit.
generally you have it start at around 6psi and ramp it up to max a few psi short of where your max boost is set to.
generally you have it start at around 6psi and ramp it up to max a few psi short of where your max boost is set to.
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