FD Rx7 Wheel/Tire Fitment Questions Answered HERE
#176
SleepR1,
i spoke to a rep at Fikse concerning the info that you posted about running 18x10 in the rear with 285/30 and 18x9 in front with 255/35. The rep says that the 18x10 in the rears won't be a problem but they generally run 18x8.5 in front with 225/40. Won't that cause understeer? Here is what he said:
"The numbers for backspacing that the person looked at to get the offsets was from our 17" wheel chart. If you can fill out a Fitment Data Sheet (download from http://www.fikse.com/cad.html) We can verify the amount of space we have if we know how much space inboard from the mounting face is and how much space out board to the fender there is. I think that's the
best way to go, because different people have different tolerances for things like rubbing. Personally I like zero or no rubbing at all, but most people can deal with a little bit. So I would strongly suggest getting
those numbers and verifying that it is exactly what you wanted. Our standard 18 inch fitment actually runs a 6.5” backspace on the front and
7.5” backspace on the rear."
So what are those measurements he's asking for? sorry for my lack of knowledge on this subject.
thanks for all the help.
Toy
i spoke to a rep at Fikse concerning the info that you posted about running 18x10 in the rear with 285/30 and 18x9 in front with 255/35. The rep says that the 18x10 in the rears won't be a problem but they generally run 18x8.5 in front with 225/40. Won't that cause understeer? Here is what he said:
"The numbers for backspacing that the person looked at to get the offsets was from our 17" wheel chart. If you can fill out a Fitment Data Sheet (download from http://www.fikse.com/cad.html) We can verify the amount of space we have if we know how much space inboard from the mounting face is and how much space out board to the fender there is. I think that's the
best way to go, because different people have different tolerances for things like rubbing. Personally I like zero or no rubbing at all, but most people can deal with a little bit. So I would strongly suggest getting
those numbers and verifying that it is exactly what you wanted. Our standard 18 inch fitment actually runs a 6.5” backspace on the front and
7.5” backspace on the rear."
So what are those measurements he's asking for? sorry for my lack of knowledge on this subject.
thanks for all the help.
Toy
#178
Can i still run 255/35's on 18x8.5 up front? or is the rim not wide enough? Also, how much space inboard from the mounting face and how much space out board to the fender is there?
#179
Lives on the Forum
Toy,
You'll need to work with your Fikse rep. That's what you're paying a Fikse dealer big money for.
I'm certainly NOT benefitting from the info I've ALREADY posted for you...
You'll need to work with your Fikse rep. That's what you're paying a Fikse dealer big money for.
I'm certainly NOT benefitting from the info I've ALREADY posted for you...
#180
SEMI-PRO
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by SleepR1
Zoom Zoom,
FWIW, if you went with Volk and your rim widths were 8.5 and 9.5 x 18 fr/rr, then your offsets were 40-mm.
If that is the case, there will be NO WAY to run 255/35-18s and 285/30-18s on your tires anyway, as the clearance won't allow that UNLESS you roll the front and rear fender lips.
2.5-inch coil springs won't do anything for you unless your wheel offsets push the wheels further inboard, in which case your offsets would be 50 to 55 mm, NOT 40 or 45 mm...
Go with my recommendation of 225/40-18 and 255/35-18 for your 8.5 and 9.5 x 18 40-mm offset wheels, and you won't have ANY problems..
They'll look great too...
Trust me...
If you don't listen, all I can say is you've been WARNED!
Zoom Zoom,
FWIW, if you went with Volk and your rim widths were 8.5 and 9.5 x 18 fr/rr, then your offsets were 40-mm.
If that is the case, there will be NO WAY to run 255/35-18s and 285/30-18s on your tires anyway, as the clearance won't allow that UNLESS you roll the front and rear fender lips.
2.5-inch coil springs won't do anything for you unless your wheel offsets push the wheels further inboard, in which case your offsets would be 50 to 55 mm, NOT 40 or 45 mm...
Go with my recommendation of 225/40-18 and 255/35-18 for your 8.5 and 9.5 x 18 40-mm offset wheels, and you won't have ANY problems..
They'll look great too...
Trust me...
If you don't listen, all I can say is you've been WARNED!
#181
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (22)
Zoom,
Hopefully you got 245/35's for the front as the 255 will be taller than the rear 285/30. This info is available in any of the tire books or online websites. Please look into it.
The 9" with a 245 is absolutely beautiful, and the 285 on a 10" ungodly.
Hope this informs you of something you may have overlooked.
See ya, Rishie
If doing 255's up front I'll suggest a 275 in the rear as diameter and gearing or not the concern of priority.
Hopefully you got 245/35's for the front as the 255 will be taller than the rear 285/30. This info is available in any of the tire books or online websites. Please look into it.
The 9" with a 245 is absolutely beautiful, and the 285 on a 10" ungodly.
Hope this informs you of something you may have overlooked.
See ya, Rishie
If doing 255's up front I'll suggest a 275 in the rear as diameter and gearing or not the concern of priority.
#182
SEMI-PRO
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by ARD T2
Zoom,
Hopefully you got 245/35's for the front as the 255 will be taller than the rear 285/30. This info is available in any of the tire books or online websites. Please look into it.
The 9" with a 245 is absolutely beautiful, and the 285 on a 10" ungodly.
Hope this informs you of something you may have overlooked.
See ya, Rishie
If doing 255's up front I'll suggest a 275 in the rear as diameter and gearing or not the concern of priority.
Zoom,
Hopefully you got 245/35's for the front as the 255 will be taller than the rear 285/30. This info is available in any of the tire books or online websites. Please look into it.
The 9" with a 245 is absolutely beautiful, and the 285 on a 10" ungodly.
Hope this informs you of something you may have overlooked.
See ya, Rishie
If doing 255's up front I'll suggest a 275 in the rear as diameter and gearing or not the concern of priority.
#183
Lives on the Forum
zoom zoom,
You do know those are the minimum wheel widths you're reading. IMO, minimum wheels widths (stated by tire manufacturers) are NOT ideal for performance. In most cases, a properly fitted tire will outperform a tire that's mounted on a too narrow a rim!
Generally I would NOT mount a tire on a rim unless I can get 90% coverage of the tire section width with the wheel width.
As an example, a typical 255-mm section width is 10 or so inches. 90% coverage would require a 9-inch wide rim for sufficient support of a 10-wide tire.
A 285-mm wide tire will require 10 inches of rim width to support an 11.2-inch wide tire. 9.5 inches will provide 85% which is merely adequate, but not ideal for the best support of such a short sidewall, and wide contact patch!
Aesthetically, a wide tire mounted on a narrow rim, looks too bulgey, and unattractive IMO. A too wide a tire on narrow rim gives the impression that the owner is too cheap to buy a wide rim, and so would rather "make" more contact patch by mounting wider tires (which doesn't work).
The only racers that mount the widest possible tires on narrow rims are SCCA racers who are bound by a rule book. They then get around a maximum wheel widths by mounting cantilevered slicks--which look gawd-awful, but they do add extra contact patch despite a narrow rim widths. Cantilevered slicks are designed to be mounted on narrow rims...
In conclusion, I stand by my recommendation of 225/40-18 tires on 8.5 x 18 wheels; and 255/35-18 tires on 9.5 x 18 wheels.
Put it this way...the slightly narrower tires will be cheaper than the wider tires you're wanting; and the 225/255 tires will fit properly and perform ideally from the generous rim widths.
You do know those are the minimum wheel widths you're reading. IMO, minimum wheels widths (stated by tire manufacturers) are NOT ideal for performance. In most cases, a properly fitted tire will outperform a tire that's mounted on a too narrow a rim!
Generally I would NOT mount a tire on a rim unless I can get 90% coverage of the tire section width with the wheel width.
As an example, a typical 255-mm section width is 10 or so inches. 90% coverage would require a 9-inch wide rim for sufficient support of a 10-wide tire.
A 285-mm wide tire will require 10 inches of rim width to support an 11.2-inch wide tire. 9.5 inches will provide 85% which is merely adequate, but not ideal for the best support of such a short sidewall, and wide contact patch!
Aesthetically, a wide tire mounted on a narrow rim, looks too bulgey, and unattractive IMO. A too wide a tire on narrow rim gives the impression that the owner is too cheap to buy a wide rim, and so would rather "make" more contact patch by mounting wider tires (which doesn't work).
The only racers that mount the widest possible tires on narrow rims are SCCA racers who are bound by a rule book. They then get around a maximum wheel widths by mounting cantilevered slicks--which look gawd-awful, but they do add extra contact patch despite a narrow rim widths. Cantilevered slicks are designed to be mounted on narrow rims...
In conclusion, I stand by my recommendation of 225/40-18 tires on 8.5 x 18 wheels; and 255/35-18 tires on 9.5 x 18 wheels.
Put it this way...the slightly narrower tires will be cheaper than the wider tires you're wanting; and the 225/255 tires will fit properly and perform ideally from the generous rim widths.
Last edited by SleepR1; 05-19-02 at 03:16 PM.
#184
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17x9.5-F&R or staggered 8.5&9.5's?
I've narrowed down my choice to Racing Hart CP035 or Fikse Mach V's. After seeing articles on the CWest and FEAST RX-7's I chose to follow with 17x9.5's-F&R.
When getting price quotes from wholesalehyper and Fikse, they insisted the staggered setup is better.
I've seen 18x10's-F&R but it does not tuck in behind the wheel well lip, it goes under it flush with the outside of the fender. It doesn't stick out past it, but I want it tucked in side of it so it doesn't hit on hard bumps (pot holes, dips).
The RS model has a staggered setup which confuses me on Mazda choice of neutral or staggered.
When getting price quotes from wholesalehyper and Fikse, they insisted the staggered setup is better.
I've seen 18x10's-F&R but it does not tuck in behind the wheel well lip, it goes under it flush with the outside of the fender. It doesn't stick out past it, but I want it tucked in side of it so it doesn't hit on hard bumps (pot holes, dips).
The RS model has a staggered setup which confuses me on Mazda choice of neutral or staggered.
#185
Lives on the Forum
You can go 9.5 x 17 fr/rr with 50.4-mm offset, 7.23-inch backspace as taken from Fikse's own offset table.
http://www.fikse.com/offsets.html
The key is choosing the 255/40-17 tire size. That will ensure you get no rubbing issues. 255s will fit beautifully on a 9.5-inch wide rim...
FWIW, I'd do Volk CE28Ns in 9.5 x 17, 47-mm offset for a race-only setup using Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires in 255/40-17. The Volks won't tuck in as nicely as the Fikses, because the Volks come in 47-mm offsets, so the Volks/Michelins will be almost flush with the fender lips, fr/rr.
My personal favorite Fikse wheel is the Mach V. If I had to do only one set of wheels for road and track use, the Fikse Mach Vs would be the wheels I'd choose.
http://www.fikse.com/images/machv.gif
http://www.fikse.com/offsets.html
The key is choosing the 255/40-17 tire size. That will ensure you get no rubbing issues. 255s will fit beautifully on a 9.5-inch wide rim...
FWIW, I'd do Volk CE28Ns in 9.5 x 17, 47-mm offset for a race-only setup using Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires in 255/40-17. The Volks won't tuck in as nicely as the Fikses, because the Volks come in 47-mm offsets, so the Volks/Michelins will be almost flush with the fender lips, fr/rr.
My personal favorite Fikse wheel is the Mach V. If I had to do only one set of wheels for road and track use, the Fikse Mach Vs would be the wheels I'd choose.
http://www.fikse.com/images/machv.gif
#186
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Thanks for the reply
It's a pretty hard choice. The Racing Harts are only 15lbs for 17x9.5 I'm not sure what the Fikse are but they will custom offset and they sure have the girl catching bling bling
The tires will either be Yokkohama A032's or Toyo T1S's. The A032's don't come in 18's and I love them and don't mind the slight noise.
Why does the '99 RS model have a stagered setup? Is there an advantage or is it because of demand, since alot of people dit it? Maybe i's more forgiving for the novice driver?
Ooh, if the offset is the same (50.4) of F&R, does that mean you can rotate? You can't rotate the exact same size wheels if the offset is different, correct?
It's a pretty hard choice. The Racing Harts are only 15lbs for 17x9.5 I'm not sure what the Fikse are but they will custom offset and they sure have the girl catching bling bling
The tires will either be Yokkohama A032's or Toyo T1S's. The A032's don't come in 18's and I love them and don't mind the slight noise.
Why does the '99 RS model have a stagered setup? Is there an advantage or is it because of demand, since alot of people dit it? Maybe i's more forgiving for the novice driver?
Ooh, if the offset is the same (50.4) of F&R, does that mean you can rotate? You can't rotate the exact same size wheels if the offset is different, correct?
Last edited by GoRacer; 10-23-02 at 09:51 PM.
#187
Lives on the Forum
I don't think you'll get the Racing Harts in the offset you want. The Fikse will probably be your best choice.
I don't know why Mazda staggered the setup for the late model FDs?
Yes you can rotate 9.5 x 17, 50.8-mm offsets wheels
I don't know why Mazda staggered the setup for the late model FDs?
Yes you can rotate 9.5 x 17, 50.8-mm offsets wheels
#188
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (9)
I think a staggered setup is really for the amount of power you're making. I know its a 50/50 weight distribution car yada yada.... but theres a reason even the stock springs are heavier in front than rear.... to balance the car under power (and braking too, likely).
I ran 245/40/17s all around for a while and the throttle-on oversteer was horrendous. And, if it was a little chilly out, i'd be spinning through 2nd gear if accelerating in a straight line. Now i run the very typical 235/45 275/40 17 setup, and laying the power down is much easier. I wouldn't say the car is "unbalanced" either.
I can't imagine wanting more than a 255 up front, but i'll take all i can get out back.
I ran 245/40/17s all around for a while and the throttle-on oversteer was horrendous. And, if it was a little chilly out, i'd be spinning through 2nd gear if accelerating in a straight line. Now i run the very typical 235/45 275/40 17 setup, and laying the power down is much easier. I wouldn't say the car is "unbalanced" either.
I can't imagine wanting more than a 255 up front, but i'll take all i can get out back.
#190
Lives on the Forum
I ran a staggered setup for the track using 245/45-17 on 8.5 x 17 and 275/40-17 on 9.5 x 17. Tires were Hoosier R3S03s, and wheels were SSR Competitions. The staggered setup, made me more comfortable and certainly kept me from spinning at all this year. The car was much easier to drive. Problem is the front tires take a beating because of the increased mount of understeer.
Next season I plan to run 275/40-17 Hoosiers all around with 9.5 x 17 Volk CE28Ns (47-mm offset)--or--255/40-17 Michelin Pilot Sport Comps (if the Hoosiers are no longer being made).
Next season I plan to run 275/40-17 Hoosiers all around with 9.5 x 17 Volk CE28Ns (47-mm offset)--or--255/40-17 Michelin Pilot Sport Comps (if the Hoosiers are no longer being made).
#191
Hi...hmm...this is my 1st post..hehe
Just wandering if you cpuld help me clear somthing up SLeepR1?
When u mentioned for track setup u would run volk CE28N with 47-mm offest, I was a bit unclear as to the reason. I always presumed that a wider wheel track would be preferrable to an extent. I say this because I have a set of CE28N 17x9.5 +28mm offest comming next week.
I have a feeling that my confusion is the fact that I am working in +ve value and you are working in -ve for your offest. However, if this is the case, how do you work out your offest value?
The value I am using is the distance from the hub face to centre of rim along the x-axis. Is this similar to how u work out your value?
Im just a bit curious because all volk offset values are listed +ve. It would be good to know your method too.
Dominic Wai
Engineer
HKS Europe Ltd.
Just wandering if you cpuld help me clear somthing up SLeepR1?
When u mentioned for track setup u would run volk CE28N with 47-mm offest, I was a bit unclear as to the reason. I always presumed that a wider wheel track would be preferrable to an extent. I say this because I have a set of CE28N 17x9.5 +28mm offest comming next week.
I have a feeling that my confusion is the fact that I am working in +ve value and you are working in -ve for your offest. However, if this is the case, how do you work out your offest value?
The value I am using is the distance from the hub face to centre of rim along the x-axis. Is this similar to how u work out your value?
Im just a bit curious because all volk offset values are listed +ve. It would be good to know your method too.
Dominic Wai
Engineer
HKS Europe Ltd.
#192
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Thanks Ptrhahn an SleepR1, that's exactly the feedback I was looking for.
Price may determine if I get the Fiske (assuming they are just as light). I don't think 275's tuck in though, at least not the ones i've seen. Maybe Fikse's custom offset could fix that. If not, i'll stick with 255's out back.
Price may determine if I get the Fiske (assuming they are just as light). I don't think 275's tuck in though, at least not the ones i've seen. Maybe Fikse's custom offset could fix that. If not, i'll stick with 255's out back.
#193
Lives on the Forum
We're using the same definition of offset. I think the 28-mm offsets will be too little offset, and you'll get some rubbing up front. Track width is good, but you have to satisfy clearance issues with tires and fenderlips, assuming we're talking about FD Rx7 fitment clearances.
Actually my ultimate setup in CE28Ns would be driven by Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comp 18-inch tire sizes: 9.5 x 18, 47-mm offset up front with 265/35-18, and 10.5 x 18, 44-mm offset in back with 285/30-18.
The fact is I cannot afford 18-inch Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comps, so I'd be settling for a compromise using the 9.5 x 17, 47-mm offset CE28N with 255/40-17 Pilot Sport Cup Comps--or--275/40-17 Hoosier R3S03s (assuming they're still available in 2003).
Actually my ultimate setup in CE28Ns would be driven by Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comp 18-inch tire sizes: 9.5 x 18, 47-mm offset up front with 265/35-18, and 10.5 x 18, 44-mm offset in back with 285/30-18.
The fact is I cannot afford 18-inch Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comps, so I'd be settling for a compromise using the 9.5 x 17, 47-mm offset CE28N with 255/40-17 Pilot Sport Cup Comps--or--275/40-17 Hoosier R3S03s (assuming they're still available in 2003).
Originally posted by HKS_EUROPE_JAI
Hi...hmm...this is my 1st post..hehe
Just wandering if you cpuld help me clear somthing up SLeepR1?
When u mentioned for track setup u would run volk CE28N with 47-mm offest, I was a bit unclear as to the reason. I always presumed that a wider wheel track would be preferrable to an extent. I say this because I have a set of CE28N 17x9.5 +28mm offest comming next week.
I have a feeling that my confusion is the fact that I am working in +ve value and you are working in -ve for your offest. However, if this is the case, how do you work out your offest value?
The value I am using is the distance from the hub face to centre of rim along the x-axis. Is this similar to how u work out your value?
Im just a bit curious because all volk offset values are listed +ve. It would be good to know your method too.
Dominic Wai
Engineer
HKS Europe Ltd.
Hi...hmm...this is my 1st post..hehe
Just wandering if you cpuld help me clear somthing up SLeepR1?
When u mentioned for track setup u would run volk CE28N with 47-mm offest, I was a bit unclear as to the reason. I always presumed that a wider wheel track would be preferrable to an extent. I say this because I have a set of CE28N 17x9.5 +28mm offest comming next week.
I have a feeling that my confusion is the fact that I am working in +ve value and you are working in -ve for your offest. However, if this is the case, how do you work out your offest value?
The value I am using is the distance from the hub face to centre of rim along the x-axis. Is this similar to how u work out your value?
Im just a bit curious because all volk offset values are listed +ve. It would be good to know your method too.
Dominic Wai
Engineer
HKS Europe Ltd.
Last edited by SleepR1; 10-25-02 at 07:19 PM.
#194
Originally posted by ptrhahn
I think a staggered setup is really for the amount of power you're making. I know its a 50/50 weight distribution car yada yada.... but theres a reason even the stock springs are heavier in front than rear.... to balance the car under power (and braking too, likely).
I ran 245/40/17s all around for a while and the throttle-on oversteer was horrendous. And, if it was a little chilly out, i'd be spinning through 2nd gear if accelerating in a straight line. Now i run the very typical 235/45 275/40 17 setup, and laying the power down is much easier. I wouldn't say the car is "unbalanced" either.
I can't imagine wanting more than a 255 up front, but i'll take all i can get out back.
I think a staggered setup is really for the amount of power you're making. I know its a 50/50 weight distribution car yada yada.... but theres a reason even the stock springs are heavier in front than rear.... to balance the car under power (and braking too, likely).
I ran 245/40/17s all around for a while and the throttle-on oversteer was horrendous. And, if it was a little chilly out, i'd be spinning through 2nd gear if accelerating in a straight line. Now i run the very typical 235/45 275/40 17 setup, and laying the power down is much easier. I wouldn't say the car is "unbalanced" either.
I can't imagine wanting more than a 255 up front, but i'll take all i can get out back.
I think getting as much tire as you can get, anywhere, is a good idea. The fact that you can run 285s front and rear is great because the car sticks like glue and you can rotate the tires. I don't have any huge attachement to the same size all round except for the rotation advantage. I would go wider in the back if it was easy and didn't cost any more.
I like the fitments Manny is suggesting, too. Those CE28Ns are really light.
-Max
#195
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Originally posted by SleepR1
Actually my ultimate setup in CE28Ns would be driven by Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comp 18-inch tire sizes: 9.5 x 18, 47-mm offset up front with 265/35-18, and 10.5 x 18, 44-mm offset in back with 285/30-18.
Actually my ultimate setup in CE28Ns would be driven by Michelin Pilot Sport Cup Comp 18-inch tire sizes: 9.5 x 18, 47-mm offset up front with 265/35-18, and 10.5 x 18, 44-mm offset in back with 285/30-18.
#196
Lives on the Forum
yeah
You could go with 265/35-18 on 9.5 x 18 47-mm offset fronts and 295/30-18 on 10.5 x 18 rears 44-mm offset. I'm referring to the CE28N wheels and Continental Contisport Contact 2 tires, which are both Porsche OE tires for the 2002/2003 996 Carreras. The 265/35-18 on 10 x 18 is stock Carrera rear fitment; the 295/30-18 on 11 x 18 is stock Carrera 4S (turbo widebody with AWD) rear fitment
#197
Thanks SLeepR1
Sorry if I didnt word my post correctly. The main question was really how your -ve offset value corresponds to the +ve value I commonly use to measure offset.
My clearance issues are ok due to using arch extensions. Im trying out the Dunlop D-01 intermediate and will be comparing it to the Michelin Pilot Cups next.
Oh..ive tried contisports on my road car but wasnt too keen on them. I found BRidgestone s-03 to be very good as an everyday tyre. Which tyres have u tried out sleep? Any feedback on tyres would be much appreciated.
Sorry if I didnt word my post correctly. The main question was really how your -ve offset value corresponds to the +ve value I commonly use to measure offset.
My clearance issues are ok due to using arch extensions. Im trying out the Dunlop D-01 intermediate and will be comparing it to the Michelin Pilot Cups next.
Oh..ive tried contisports on my road car but wasnt too keen on them. I found BRidgestone s-03 to be very good as an everyday tyre. Which tyres have u tried out sleep? Any feedback on tyres would be much appreciated.
#198
Lives on the Forum
Ahh, well, if you have wheel arches and such, then you're right you can run 28-mm offsets, since you have adequate clearance for the extra track width.
I've run Bridgestones (RE71, Expedia S-07), Pirellis (P-Zero Asimmetricos), Yokohamas (A032Rs, AVS Intermediates), Kumhos (V700s, Ecsta 711s), BFGs (G-Force R1As), and Hoosiers (R3S03s, and Motorola Cup compounds). Have not tried Michelins and Continentals. I'm currently using the AVS Intermediates. They're cheap from the Tire Rack at $94 each in 255/40-17s. I plan to buy another set of five, perhaps ten tires. I've been quite impressed with the AVS I's. They're great for the road (quiet, smooth, grippy, and decent wet weather traction), and fairly decent drivers education track tires too!
I've had excellent success with track-only tires from Hoosier. The R3S03 compound is barnone the fastest US DOT-approved road racing tire on the market. I recently sold these tires and wheels (SSR Competitions) to Jaymz.
Tires I'd like to try are Bridgestone S-03 PPs, Michelin Pilot Sport Cups, BFG G-Force KDs, and Continental Sport Contact 2s.
I've run Bridgestones (RE71, Expedia S-07), Pirellis (P-Zero Asimmetricos), Yokohamas (A032Rs, AVS Intermediates), Kumhos (V700s, Ecsta 711s), BFGs (G-Force R1As), and Hoosiers (R3S03s, and Motorola Cup compounds). Have not tried Michelins and Continentals. I'm currently using the AVS Intermediates. They're cheap from the Tire Rack at $94 each in 255/40-17s. I plan to buy another set of five, perhaps ten tires. I've been quite impressed with the AVS I's. They're great for the road (quiet, smooth, grippy, and decent wet weather traction), and fairly decent drivers education track tires too!
I've had excellent success with track-only tires from Hoosier. The R3S03 compound is barnone the fastest US DOT-approved road racing tire on the market. I recently sold these tires and wheels (SSR Competitions) to Jaymz.
Tires I'd like to try are Bridgestone S-03 PPs, Michelin Pilot Sport Cups, BFG G-Force KDs, and Continental Sport Contact 2s.
Originally posted by HKS_EUROPE_JAI
Thanks SLeepR1
Sorry if I didnt word my post correctly. The main question was really how your -ve offset value corresponds to the +ve value I commonly use to measure offset.
My clearance issues are ok due to using arch extensions. Im trying out the Dunlop D-01 intermediate and will be comparing it to the Michelin Pilot Cups next.
Oh..ive tried contisports on my road car but wasnt too keen on them. I found BRidgestone s-03 to be very good as an everyday tyre. Which tyres have u tried out sleep? Any feedback on tyres would be much appreciated.
Thanks SLeepR1
Sorry if I didnt word my post correctly. The main question was really how your -ve offset value corresponds to the +ve value I commonly use to measure offset.
My clearance issues are ok due to using arch extensions. Im trying out the Dunlop D-01 intermediate and will be comparing it to the Michelin Pilot Cups next.
Oh..ive tried contisports on my road car but wasnt too keen on them. I found BRidgestone s-03 to be very good as an everyday tyre. Which tyres have u tried out sleep? Any feedback on tyres would be much appreciated.
Last edited by SleepR1; 10-26-02 at 01:29 PM.
#199
#200
That should work if you are careful with the tire sizes and are willing to do the rub-avoidance measures and accept some risk of rubbing. Michel has that setup.
Are they SE37As? Mmmm...
-Max
Are they SE37As? Mmmm...
-Max