CAPETAN

I am looking for a spring that drops the car 2-2.5"
i have a 2nd gen rx7
and what shocks would you guys recommend
the car will be used for track and autocross 90% of the time
links and sites would be welcome to .......good deals and special sales
coilovers are too expensive

thanks

RETed

Personally, I think it's a stupid idea.
Extreme drops like that induce huge amounts of negative camber in the rear.
Sure, it looks cool, but you're going to go through (rear) tires in WEEKS.

Almost any of the easily adjustable coilovers will give you a drop like that.
As for driving around, keep close to the stock ride height - your tires and wallet will thank you.


-Ted

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Intrax has the lowest drop, but as Ted mentioned it's going to throw everything off and the springs aren't the best.

CAPETAN

even with proper alignment / adjustment its still going to screw stuff up?
i want the car to have a low center of gravity and like i said before its only primarily going to be driven on the track, so ride quality doesnt matter
any shock / strut recommendations?

RETed

You cannot adjust that huge amounts of negative camber in the rear...without redoing the entire rear subframe.

You're welcome to try...


-Ted

Llama

can't he get adjustable strut-tops? How about rear camber bolts?

RETed

Adjust the strut tops on the rear does not affect camber, or any other wheel alignment component - if you stare at the shock position, you'll understand.

Crash or eccentric bolts don't work either...at least not on the shock itself.

The wheel position is dictate by the "K-M" trailing arm.
Unless you start to reposition this entire trailing arm (which floats on a bunch of rubber bushings), it's not going to happen.

The rear camber adjust bar can only take out up to about 3-degrees of negative camber.
Slamming the FC to the ground can induce as much as 8-degrees of negative camber.
This is just too much camber for this rear camber adjust bar to take out.


-Ted

rynberg

How about just getting proper springs and shocks? Doesn't sound like you have a whole lot of track/auto-x experience....listen to the guys here. The lowest center of gravity doesn't = the fastest car if the suspension geometry is negatively altered.

BTW, if you can't afford coilovers, how will you be able to afford all that track time....

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

H&R should be the lowest but can your dampers handle the spring rate. You may need to buy Bilsteins or Koni's to go with them.

CAPETAN

then whats a good track setup
springs and shocks

thanks

apex_sideway

Read a tech article on proper suspension setups and you'll get a good idea what's good for a track setup.

Tierce

even if the subframe was modified to accept that much drop with the correct camber, would you have enough suspension travel to make the car handle well?

855m0n0

iTrader: (1)

I use 600lbs linear ground controls with Koni yellows. It makes for a very harsh ride but it handles very well at the race track. It is about as inexpensive as you can go for a full threaded setup. BTW, contrary to popular believe, the only reason to have a full threaded setup is for corner weighting. Raising and lowering the vehicle usually does not help the car handle better in any significant way. Most full out race cars that started as production vehicles in classes where you can not significantly change the suspension geometry rarely lower the vehicle more than 1 inch. If you have threaded coil overs and you have not had your vehicle corner weighted then you might as well have just got a nice shock and spring setup.

If you are just going for the lowered LOOK I would just get some H&Rs or maybe even cut your springs (j/k).