I removed the ABS and wasn't satisfied with the mazdatrix delete kit, so I'd like to build new lines from the PBV to the calipers. I'm interested in solid lines due to the cost and the learning experience. Otherwise I could do stainless braided ones. Does anyone have any reason to discourage me from making them? Tips?

 

Tip #1 - get a double flare tool, some brake line, and practice a lot

Tip # 2 - find a location to buy premade lines in the correct length whenever possible
After practicing Tip # 1, you will understand.

Tip # 3 - get decent tool to bend brake line - Eastwood Brake line pliers

 

I did all stainless hard lines up front myself. Just order the line (3/16) from Summit Racing, get a SINGLE flare for stainless, and a bender.

One of the best tools for stainless single flares in my opinion is the Ridgid Ratchet Flare Tool (458R i think).

Normally, you WOULD double flare, but only if you are using softer metals such as aluminum or steel. With stainless, I assure you that you will have a hell of a time doing a double flare. Also, whenever you try to do a double flare on stainless, it actually makes it weaker and causes it to crack and split; the metal is simply to hard to be bend around like that. If anyone has an opinion otherwise, well I have been using my setup flawlessly for 2 years now.

Whenever I did my setup, I got rid of all the ABS stuff, added a Tilton proportioning valve and got rid of the stock one, and also redid the clutch hardline. Here are some picks, sorry my bay is so dirty.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. Is a proportioning valve necessary?

 

Well, the stock proportioning valve works together with the ABS so the proportioning will definitely be different without the ABS. Although it isn't necessary, I put one on to help balance things out. I'd personally recommend one, but it's all up to you.

 

Nice setup.

I thought that double flare was necessary to fit existing fittings, but apparently I was wrong.

So you can use single flare to mate up to existing fittings on MC, etc?

What is the degree of flare?

 

Yeah, using single flare on existing fittings is fine as long as it is SS. If using steel, do the double.

Major Tips:

1. Use a cutoff wheel to cut the tubing to length. DON'T use a pipe cutter as it hardens the metal and is harder to flare.

2. Deburr the inside and chamfer the outside slightly.

3. Put a dab of oil on the cone when flaring. It will really help with stainless. Just make sure you don't get it in the clamps that hold the tubing in place or you may have trouble with clamping.

4. Wash out the tubing with water and compressed air to get all that debris out before you pump that crap into your calipers.

The flare is an SAE 45 degree flare. European cars usually use the DIN flare which. The 37 degrees is just for AN fittings.

 

ALL stock FC proportioning valves are the same, ABS or not, 4 lug, 5 lug, single or 4 piston calipers, they're all the same, so if you get rid of the ABS you'll still have the same bias as any other FC and it'll brake just fine. Really the only reason to do otherwise is that at the track it's common to have rear brake lockup problems, so an adjustable bias valve can help there. It's not necessary to remove the stock valve with an aftermarket bias valve unless you're looking for MORE rear bias.

 

Thanks for the SS line tips.

BTW, the 485r is SAE. Ridgid also produces a 485mm for metric. Is that perhaps the model you used?

Ridgid 485 Flare tools

 

I used the 485R for SAE. I never really looked too much but I think it is a little more difficult to find stainless mm lines. Stainless SAE is readily available and cheap. Don't quote me on this 100%, but I'm pretty sure that the 3/16" is the same size as the stock lines, and if not, pretty damn close enough not to make any difference.

 

What fittings did you use on the lines limbar85?

 

Never mind, I found the answer using the good old search button.