Tanabe Sway Bar Review - Read if considering buying
03-13-10, 03:47 AM
#27
i just purchased the Tanabe front bar also. Same powdercoat problem as the OP. Maybe even worse but a metal brush adapter with my dremel fixed the issue.
I only installed the front swaybar and left my oem 93 rear sway. This is with my tein stechs and koni yellows and widefoot mounts. I hit the track a week ago with the new swaybar and noticed a few things.
-car responds better (sharper)
-car is easier to drive
-car understeers more
-obviously alittle less lean upfront
I tried to remedy the understeer by softening the rear rebound on the konis. The rear was about 1/4 turn from softest (yes i know its soft) and the front was about 1 1/2 turns from stiffest. Car felt neutral. I think my re01r's are dried up now though after 5 track days so after new rims and tires ill give another review. I really felt the front tires working harder after the swaybar install. I would also recommend ~-1.5 camber upfront after installing a stiffer sway since the car dosent lean as much and poduce as much camber on turns.
I only installed the front swaybar and left my oem 93 rear sway. This is with my tein stechs and koni yellows and widefoot mounts. I hit the track a week ago with the new swaybar and noticed a few things.
-car responds better (sharper)
-car is easier to drive
-car understeers more
-obviously alittle less lean upfront
I tried to remedy the understeer by softening the rear rebound on the konis. The rear was about 1/4 turn from softest (yes i know its soft) and the front was about 1 1/2 turns from stiffest. Car felt neutral. I think my re01r's are dried up now though after 5 track days so after new rims and tires ill give another review. I really felt the front tires working harder after the swaybar install. I would also recommend ~-1.5 camber upfront after installing a stiffer sway since the car dosent lean as much and poduce as much camber on turns.
03-13-10, 09:42 AM
#30
Wouldn't installing the rear bar produce more oversteer / less understeer? I took pictures of mine last night and it had the same issue just not as bad. 5 minutes with a die grinder and scotch brite pad and 5 minutes with a 10mm x 1.25 die and it was good to go. If I had to do the paint sanding by hand then I may have been upset.
I'll post pics in a bit.
I'll post pics in a bit.
03-13-10, 10:07 AM
#31
I have been running Racing Beat for years, front and back. Quality is top notch. straight plug&play as i recall installing them. If you plan on running stiffer sway bars on your FD you must at all cost run after market brackets(fronts Only) or the oem will crack in matter of months(miles).
Super now offers both front and rear after market units but, IMO the fronts are a must.
you should be aware that when i installed the rears sway bars from Racing Beat, i did get a noticeable amount of under steer. But then again not a big factor for me b/c I dont track my FD but rather drive like an *** on the weekends in the Canyons around San Diego.
FYI Feed also offers the same identical units at a higher price but they are in fact manufactured by the same machine shop.
Super now offers both front and rear after market units but, IMO the fronts are a must.
you should be aware that when i installed the rears sway bars from Racing Beat, i did get a noticeable amount of under steer. But then again not a big factor for me b/c I dont track my FD but rather drive like an *** on the weekends in the Canyons around San Diego.
FYI Feed also offers the same identical units at a higher price but they are in fact manufactured by the same machine shop.
03-13-10, 06:56 PM
#34
im also thinking of buying the rear bar but Im afraid of getting too much oversteer. I drove the car again and its still exhibiting understeer. Im gonna try settings the shocks front and rear at 1/2 turn from from softest and see how it feels at the track in april.
03-15-10, 11:00 AM
#35
I have the Tanabe front and rear bars with Howards recommended dampers. I also have a staggered wheel tire setup. This past weekend was spent at TWS flogging the car to the limit of the HTRZ III tires and burning about 40 gallons of fuel.
The best description I can give is that the car will "move around" but in a very controlled fashion. The front of the car is hooked up well and goes where you point it, always. If you aren't precise with your inputs the car will dance the rear end around and make you nervous. Once I adjusted my driving style I found it pretty easy to go fast.
My 2 cents on the Tanabe's.
The best description I can give is that the car will "move around" but in a very controlled fashion. The front of the car is hooked up well and goes where you point it, always. If you aren't precise with your inputs the car will dance the rear end around and make you nervous. Once I adjusted my driving style I found it pretty easy to go fast.
My 2 cents on the Tanabe's.
03-15-10, 11:38 AM
#36
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Below are a few shots from my install this past weekend, in the second pic you can see the grinding/thread repair required due to Tanabe's poor quality control.
My main issue right now is that I want to replace the crack-prone OEM sway bar mounts, but due to the revised radiator mounting (b/c of my Blitz FMIC) I don't think I have any room at all to move the radiator any higher. All of the aftermarket mounts that I know of move the rad 1 inch higher b/c the mounts themselves are shorter.
I may just buy a new pair of oem mounts and have them reinforced with some welding.
My main issue right now is that I want to replace the crack-prone OEM sway bar mounts, but due to the revised radiator mounting (b/c of my Blitz FMIC) I don't think I have any room at all to move the radiator any higher. All of the aftermarket mounts that I know of move the rad 1 inch higher b/c the mounts themselves are shorter.
I may just buy a new pair of oem mounts and have them reinforced with some welding.
03-15-10, 12:02 PM
#37
If there's no way a set of Widefoot mounts are gonna work, then this made a nice difference for me, Rich. In fact, it actually lowers the bar from the frame a little bit.
After a half dozen track days my stock sway bar brackets are still in great shape. I'm running stock F&R 93 sways and street tires, but I've hear a few stories about broken brackets, even with a set-up like mine.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
After a half dozen track days my stock sway bar brackets are still in great shape. I'm running stock F&R 93 sways and street tires, but I've hear a few stories about broken brackets, even with a set-up like mine.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm
05-19-10, 03:56 PM
#40
One more data point on the Tanabe's:
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
05-19-10, 05:30 PM
#41
Thanks for the info! I just had my car out at the track last weekend for the first time since the suspension upgrades and an AutoX the weekend before.
I found the rear to be very oversteer prone when the tires were cold. Once they warmed up I didn't have any problems at all and the car was very composed and predictable. I am still breaking in the new motor and getting used to the suspension so I didn't push the car to it's limits yet though. No unusual behavior on the wet skidpad and the car remains very easy to toss, catch and hold.
I just looked at some arbitrary lap times from video of the same track/configuration exactly 1 year ago to last weekend. Last year I was pushing hard with stock suspension trying to overtake some cars (with plenty of tire squealing action) and ran 1:48 - 1:50. This year, with the sway bars, eibach pro kit and tokico illuminas I ran exactly 1:48 - 1:50 while just leisurely testing out the car (with silent tires). I don't know how much more is in the car but this is a promising sign and I look forward to finding out.
I have not modified my rear bushings but I did lube them up as stated above before I installed them. I will check and see if they're binding at all and consider modifying the bushings from there.
Oh, and I haven't heard anything back from Tanabe concerning this problem after their initial reply to me.
I found the rear to be very oversteer prone when the tires were cold. Once they warmed up I didn't have any problems at all and the car was very composed and predictable. I am still breaking in the new motor and getting used to the suspension so I didn't push the car to it's limits yet though. No unusual behavior on the wet skidpad and the car remains very easy to toss, catch and hold.
I just looked at some arbitrary lap times from video of the same track/configuration exactly 1 year ago to last weekend. Last year I was pushing hard with stock suspension trying to overtake some cars (with plenty of tire squealing action) and ran 1:48 - 1:50. This year, with the sway bars, eibach pro kit and tokico illuminas I ran exactly 1:48 - 1:50 while just leisurely testing out the car (with silent tires). I don't know how much more is in the car but this is a promising sign and I look forward to finding out.
I have not modified my rear bushings but I did lube them up as stated above before I installed them. I will check and see if they're binding at all and consider modifying the bushings from there.
Oh, and I haven't heard anything back from Tanabe concerning this problem after their initial reply to me.
05-19-10, 06:35 PM
#42
One more data point on the Tanabe's:
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
05-19-10, 07:06 PM
#43
Rotary Freak
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thanks David.... your car felt great. It feels almost like my car but less traction.
Here's a short video of my car with major exhaust leak on the turbo/manifold. I decided I was done for the weekend after 2 laps in this session since I was only getting 7psi of boost when I normally run 21psi on the track (probably down at least 200rwhp).
http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/o...rent=msr31.flv
Here's a short video of my car with major exhaust leak on the turbo/manifold. I decided I was done for the weekend after 2 laps in this session since I was only getting 7psi of boost when I normally run 21psi on the track (probably down at least 200rwhp).
http://s371.photobucket.com/albums/o...rent=msr31.flv
One more data point on the Tanabe's:
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
The rear bar bushing is taller than the bracket that bolts it to the car causing the rubber to compress and add resistance to the bar. More resistance means more rate,inconsistent rate at that. This would explain the "nervousness" I felt in the rear of the car last time out. I did an experiment last weekend at MSR involving a stock rear bar and my newly modified Tanabe rear bar.
I installed the stock rear bar for all sessions on Sat.
The car exibited understeer in almost all situations and I was unable to push at all for fear of not being able to turn. Switching to the modified Tanabe for Sun. I was rewarded with no understeer, power on oversteer only when I wanted it, easily controlled, and improved stability under braking versus the stock Tanabe setup. Grinding the bushing down flush with the bracket was the only change made to the Tanabe setup. When installed with the endlinks disconnected there was little to no resistance when trying to rotate the bar.
I took Steve Kan out for a session and he was surprised and how neutral the car was and how easily it drove.
I also drove Steve's car for an abbreviated session and I can testify to the fact that it is FAST and hooked up! Thanks Steve!
05-19-10, 09:43 PM
#44
Don't let Steve's video fool anyone. I drove that thing before it blew the Turbo gasket and it's pretty sick. People have trouble getting out of the way fast enough.
05-20-10, 09:02 PM
#46
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I'm running stock front and rear bar. I didn't think there's a need to change since it is handling great as is. I do have the pfs front and rear bar in my drag car. I may swap it between both cars and see if I feel any difference.
05-20-10, 09:06 PM
#47
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I think everyone was so used to me passing them without needing to let off that they were surprised I can barely pass a mini or miata in the video. 
I'm running the "Howard Spec" suspension with the exception of ride height and sway bars. I have Tanabe front and rear bars and run 25.5 front and 25.75 rear ride height. Everything else is Howard's recomendations including tires. I have a feeling I'll need more spring rate when I go to a stickier tire though.
Don't let Steve's video fool anyone. I drove that thing before it blew the Turbo gasket and it's pretty sick. People have trouble getting out of the way fast enough.
Don't let Steve's video fool anyone. I drove that thing before it blew the Turbo gasket and it's pretty sick. People have trouble getting out of the way fast enough.
06-20-10, 02:01 PM
#48
I got the Tanabe front bar this week - still had the powdercoating problem. Had to run the threads and wire brush the endlinks. Been in contact with Widefoot for the past couple months but they seem to be having production issues. My next track event isn't until September so I really won't be give a proper review until then.
06-20-10, 03:23 PM
#49
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Weren't the racing beat bars made by suspension techniques? Even so, after what have read about the racing beat bars i wont even consider them. Even how they dealt with the issue was deplorable. I dont however think that this car needs upgraded bars particularly. Maybe for pro drivers but not for how relatively little seat time i have in the car.
11-03-10, 06:21 PM
#50
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Sorry for bringing up an old thread. very interesting read. I've been thinking about getting these. I may give tanabe a call to see if this is something they've fixed.
Last edited by RxxxSevenFD; 11-03-10 at 06:23 PM.