I have a 73 RX2. I changed the bolt pattern to a more common 5x114.3. However, I am still pretty constrained by offset and wheel width. Basically I need no larger than a 17x7 with a 14 offset up front and a 17x8 with a 18offset in the rear.

After searching for sometime, I have come to the conclusion that I will need to order custom $$$$$ one off wheels, or use 1 inch spacers and get a common 35-45 offset.

I have heard some say that spacers should not be run. However, I don't know what other options I have given how hard it is to find a decent looking set of low offset wheels.

Are spacers dangerous? Anything I can do to minmize that danger? Anyone have a hook up for super low offset wheels in the above specified size?

Thanks

 

IF i understand correctly what I have read in the past spacers can be dangerous without a hubcentric(sp) ring

 

Since you're looking for a thicker spacer, you have the option of running hub-centric bolt-on spacers that bolt on to your current studs and provide new studs to mount the wheels to. High-quality versions of these, like Project Kics and Ichiba are quite safe and very common in the drifting community (where a lot of stress goes on that area). Don't get the cheap eBay crap. Slip-on spacers are safe when they're like 5mm, but they become unsafe when wider spacers are used and the usable amount of the wheel studs is shortened. Replacing studs with longer studs is a solution, but a bit laborious and still isn't as safe as bolt-ons.

Rishie (on this forum) @ AutoRND has a pretty good deal on Kics... http://www.autornd.com/catalog/produ...d64fdf59867e60

I can also get you a good deal on Ichiba Ver II.

 

Okay, sorry if I sound stupid on this, but I do not get it. Do these go over the original studs, and you use the studs provided to torque down the wheel?

 

Tirerack.com has some excellent info on these.

 

Got a link?

 

You can take a horse to water....

Their search function works well. I just tried it. Few diff articles. Check it out if you like.

 

Yes, exactly. These bolt to the studs attached to your car and provide new studs built into the spacers. They are the safest option.

 

I had a wheel fall off once from the non bolt on spacer type. It was riding fine and then when I was hitting a corner it wobbled loose and fell off. I torqued it on too.

Perhaps if you could weld the spacer to the wheel and pick up longer studs you'd be ok.

The bolt on type just seems kinda poser to me. Just buy lower offset wheels or deal with the sunkeness. The spacer run $200 anyway. You could almost buy a set of used mesh wheels in a 0 offset for that.

 

This is a great post DK! I have no current need for spacers and don't ever plan on needing them but I feel like I'm better off for having read this post.

Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks man, I saw some pics of how they work on the internets. Nothing has been easy with this car, and if I go this route, it is going to be a super pain in the ***. But the trade off, I guess, is I get just about any rim I want.

Here is how the car sits today. Rota D2's. They are too big at 7.5 in front. They are hitting my coilovers. They also have a 25 offset. I had to use a 3/4 inch spacer just to get them on.

I already have super long studs. I think they are like 3 inch. If I do go bolt on spacer the custom brakes and hubs up front which will make the install a complete pain in the ***.

 

Spacers are absolutely safe if used properly. A friend of the family used to run a GT3 class BMW road race car and used 1" slip on spacers with longer studs with 10" wide slicks and never had a problem, they're not hubcentric either. Problems arise when you use studs of insufficient length or strength. IMHO stock studs should never be used with slip on spacers. I've used 7/16" spacers with my track wheels several times with no issues, but I've got longer ARP studs.

Hubcentricity is just a conveniance thing, it's really not needed.

 

What are these used for?

 

Hubcentricity as in being hubcentric. The lugs center the wheel pretty well, and the clamping force betweent the wheel and hub (with brake rotor in between) holds the wheels in place, not the little lip on the hub. If you don't use hub rings you just have to tighten in stages and tighten in the air, or you can get vibrations.

 

i run 25mm ichiba spacers on my 350z DD because the stock rays wheels it came with are so sunk. it makes the car look alot better overall. i have never had a problem with them, but if you do get them i wouldn't recommend using an impact gun on the new studs.

i got them from Rishie for a smokin deal!
www.autornd.com

 

I run 2" bolt on spacers on my Toyota 4x4 that is a "trail only" truck. Nothing but hard forces put on those with 37" sticky tires, lockers, and lower gears. Never had a problem. Just use them correctly and torque them correctly.

~T.J.

 

if you use spaces and get longer studs ... you dont necessarilly need to get the spacers with studs built in to them

 

Sorry to highjack this thread but it folows the subject of working with spacers:
Any leads on 1/4" + longer tha stock very high quality studs that fit the FD?? My Ichiba spacers came with studs, but I am not yet willing to trust my life on them.

 

ARP?

 

The ARP studs that fit the FC are the ones for the late model Corvettes and Camaros, the M12x1.5 ones. On an FC, the shorter ones are just under an inch longer in front, the longer ones are just over an inch longer in the rear.

 

The Ichiba studs are just fine, man.

 

Could the reason for mine being unstable be the fact that it was 4 lug? 92 240SX.

 

backwards- the long studs go in front, and short in the rear. here are links to avoid any confusion
Front
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=ARP-100-7713
Rear
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=ARP-100-7708

 

Sorry, you're right, long ones in front, short ones in back. It's been a while since I did it.

 

don't think the ARP Corvette studs that fit FC's fit onto FD's but thanks for all th comments.