Ok, I haven't posted here in awhile and I checked around the world wide web and couldn't come up with anything that would help me like the information some of you guys have.

I have a set of three piece wheels that I'm going to send out and get them re-sized but here is where the fun begins. I'm not trying to find the perfect "Hella-flush" offsets, I'm just trying to get a size that functions under the stock fenders.

The sizes I want are 18"x10" in the front and 18"x12" in the rear. Yes I'm aware that the rear size probably wont happen under stock fenders but I figured some of you would know some offsets or other options I can do. I can roll the rears but I can't pull them because one of my rear quarters are made of bondo (My car is a jdm car and far from perfect)

Thanks in advance, Sorry if it seems like a 3 year old wrote it, I'm no good at this crap.

 

The rears won't fit without ridiculous camber or a pull. As for offsets, they have been covered in the FD wheel fitment thread.

 

Thanks, I kinda figured that, just trying to see if anyone knows anything, I've come to terms and realized that this car since its not clean will be my test car while I look for a nice LHD car that I can use my knowledge and do it right once.

 

Sell 'em on the 350Z club and buy a squared set up of 18x10 +45 or so

 

^agreed

 

I don't need to sell anything because I haven't resized them yet. Just looking around. Most likely going with a 18x10 all around, lower offset thou

Also I think a 350Z would look funny with Re-amemiya rims.

 

IMO an FD would look funny on 18x12's too. I mean unless you're either trying to look herrafrush or have the widebody kit to go with the wheels.

 

When doing a wide rear wheel on an FD and not going outboard with it (ie hellaflush or widebody) you have to decide how much suspension work you want to do.

Optimum offset is right around +45 if you are trying to fit the widest tire in a stock(ish) fender opening.

You can run up to a 18x11 +45 front and rear with coilovers and minor fender lip rolling.

Front-
It may rub slightly on the front lower arm at full steering lock. You could grind the arm or limit the rack or not turn the wheel all the way. You will have to roll the front fender lip under, max front camber (~2.4 deg negative) and you can fit a 285/30-18.

Rear-
You will need coilovers, and ~2 deg negative camber (OR roll the fender lip) to fit a 285/30-18.

If you want to go wider in the rear-

First thing the wheel will hit inboard is the trailing arm. You can get aftermarket ones that move the pivot point in for a little more room.

Next is the rear shock. Coilovers help, you may need to run thinner collars or use T-bolts. You can go extreme and use a rod instead of the shock up to inboard shocks mounted in the hatch (been done before on FD).

These are my 18x10.5 +38 w/ 265/35-18 front and rear. 18x11 45 the outside edge would be in the exact same place and the wheel/tire would extend 14mm inboard.

I have coilovers, max front camber and front fender lip rolled under. Stock rear fenders, no rubbing even in auto-x.

 

I ran a 10.5 +28ish stock rear fenders no roll with 285's no rub. Now I run 9.5+22. You can fit 10.5 +18 easy on the rear with no tire stretch btw. 12's can fit rear you're just going to have to stretch the tires a bit. What's the offset to start off with?

 

I ran a 10.5 +28ish stock rear fenders no roll with 285's no rub.

???????? Did you max the rear negative camber?????????

My 10.5 +38 265 is right at the edge of the stock rear fender lip with -2deg camber. It scraped the letters on the sidewall under full compression when I had a little less camber.

 

I started this thread before I sent the rims out. So right now I have stock sizing (17x8.5 +41 and 17x9 +35)

Since I'm sending them out for a full one off working that's why I'm asking these questions. After seeing T2s car I just think ill either rock that sizing or ill run more negative offset and man up for overfenders since the body is far from mint. At first my whole goal was to be able to run a 315 on the back because my buddy told me there was no way to do it. But after seeing your responses I think I'll just grow up and go with functional rather than look at me.

Thanks guys. Keep up the useful information.

 

I was running -.75* rear camber. I think I rubbed once but it was doing 110 and the suspension fully compressed on a bump. I rolled them after that just because I could and then I had all the room in the world.