When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the Shine widebody front fenders, however, RPF1 doesn't seem to carry 9.5 x 30 offsets. Does anyone have the Shine fenders with RPF1s with a width of 9 or higher? If so what is your width/offset and is it pretty flush? BTW, 18 rims pls
Advan has the correct setup, but, are so much more expensive, so I thought RPF1 would be a good compromise if I can find the right setup.
I have the Shine widebody front fenders, however, RPF1 doesn't seem to carry 9.5 x 30 offsets. Does anyone have the Shine fenders with RPF1s with a width of 9 or higher? If so what is your width/offset and is it pretty flush? BTW, 18 rims pls
Advan has the correct setup, but, are so much more expensive, so I thought RPF1 would be a good compromise if I can find the right setup.
Assuming that the shine fenders you are referring to are the feed style ones, you can do the 18x9.5 +30
These RPF1s are 17x10 +38 and there was some more room in the front
Yes, the feed style as in the picture. Those +38 look like they could use a small spacer, a little tucked tbh. But pretty close considering +38 is my only real choice on the Rpf1.
What I really like is my FD is Pearl White, same hood and headlights, so I can see how that fitment looks on something 99% exactly like mine. 👍 I just have my hood painted and the vents left carbon.
Ive run 305/30-18 tire up front and it tucked/turned w/out rub when I raced.
I am limited to a max 285 wide tire in the class that i was racing.
while the fitment is pretty close on our setups you can probably get more clearance with the rolled/pulled fenders as opposed to the fiberglass feed fenders
18x10+50 is perfect for 285/30x18 square. That is what i run with zero fender rolling or any modifications. No need to get front fenders and rear flares when you can get plenty of tire under the stock body. well unless you need 315+ in the rear
I have shines OEM +20mm front fenders with 18x10+35 285/30/18 -2.7 camber and still could use a spacer up front. Rear is very close fitment wise (stocked rolled).
I have shines OEM +20mm front fenders with 18x10+35 285/30/18 -2.7 camber and still could use a spacer up front. Rear is very close fitment wise (stocked rolled).
Originally I wanted +29 up front +35 in back. That would eliminate the space up front you have. But they only make the 10's in a +38 and 9.5's in a +15 or +38. Crap choices for the front.
So, biting the bullet and figure I'll go 10x18 +38 square on the RPF1, being that that seems to be the closest offset to what I need.
Big question now is, anyone have any insight as to how big of a spacer I'd need up front? I am thinking 10 or 12mm, and a 5mm in rear. Am I way off? Looking for close to 0 camber and working on tire size now.
Any help is appreciated, just ready to get the car on the road before it gets warm. Feels like I've been researching rims forever and getting nowhere due to limited offsets
So, biting the bullet and figure I'll go 10x18 +38 square on the RPF1, being that that seems to be the closest offset to what I need.
Big question now is, anyone have any insight as to how big of a spacer I'd need up front? I am thinking 10 or 12mm, and a 5mm in rear. Am I way off? Looking for close to 0 camber and working on tire size now.
Any help is appreciated, just ready to get the car on the road before it gets warm. Feels like I've been researching rims forever and getting nowhere due to limited offsets
Cheap spacers are cheap, a good set is still $100+. I'll probably throw washers on until the rim sits right, then measure the washers twice and buy once.
Cheap spacers are cheap, a good set is still $100+. I'll probably throw washers on until the rim sits right, then measure the washers twice and buy once.
What? Quality 10 mm spacers are like $10 per axle. The expensive part is installing the extended studs.
I wouldn't personally recommend using those spacer kits that come with studs. It's just an additional potential point of failure, and it adds weight.
Appreciate all the input, pulling the trigger on 18x10+38 and spacers.
Next big question is, what is the most comfy tire I can fit that is grippy enough for Mt Driving? Not necessarily the smoothest roads so I need some meat on the wheel for small potholes or occasional rocks, but don't want to rub.
Appreciate all the input, pulling the trigger on 18x10+38 and spacers.
Next big question is, what is the most comfy tire I can fit that is grippy enough for Mt Driving? Not necessarily the smoothest roads so I need some meat on the wheel for small potholes or occasional rocks, but don't want to rub.
Cheap, grippy, durable, comfortable/quiet/efficient…pick two. What’s your budget? What size are you going with?
I don't need Cheap, but I don't want to break the bank either.
It's the size I am trying to figure out, I want enough sidewall to handle a pothole or two, and be comfortable when cruising, but performance on tight turns one after the other in my mountains. So no rubber bands, but don't want occasional rub either
And yes, grippy, with occasional water, I'm in San Diego, not much rain other than this year.
I don't need Cheap, but I don't want to break the bank either.
It's the size I am trying to figure out, I want enough sidewall to handle a pothole or two, and be comfortable when cruising, but performance on tight turns one after the other in my mountains. So no rubber bands, but don't want occasional rub either
And yes, grippy, with occasional water, I'm in San Diego, not much rain other than this year.
Bro, you're supposed to pick the tire size BEFORE you buy the wheels.
But since you've got 10" wheels, wide fenders, you might as well get 295/30R18s, which are the exact same height as the stock 255/40R17s.
265/35R18s will be only a bit taller, but they will be way lighter and therefore more comfortable (less unsprung mass).
275/35R18s will be quite a bit taller, so your speedo and gear ratios will be off slightly, but more comfortable than 295s because of the extra meat and less weight.
285/30R18s are basically the tires you don't want, since they're smaller, so they have tiny sidewalls.
"Extreme performance" summer tires will be the grippiest, but the loudest, shortest lived, and usually the most expensive.
If comfort and wet grip is an issue, I'd go with something one tier below.
Bro, you're supposed to pick the tire size BEFORE you buy the wheels.
But since you've got 10" wheels, wide fenders, you might as well get 295/30R18s, which are the exact same height as the stock 255/40R17s.
265/35R18s will be only a bit taller, but they will be way lighter and therefore more comfortable (less unsprung mass).
275/35R18s will be quite a bit taller, so your speedo and gear ratios will be off slightly, but more comfortable than 295s because of the extra meat and less weight.
285/30R18s are basically the tires you don't want, since they're smaller, so they have tiny sidewalls.
"Extreme performance" summer tires will be the grippiest, but the loudest, shortest lived, and usually the most expensive.
If comfort and wet grip is an issue, I'd go with something one tier below.
I was thinking Firestone Firehawk Indy 500, found some on Fitment Industries. Seem
Good for summer and occasional water, not bad for wear or price. The 265 35r 18's are about $250. Shouldn't be a rub issue at this size right?
I was thinking Firestone Firehawk Indy 500, found some on Fitment Industries. Seem
Good for summer and occasional water, not bad for wear or price. The 265 35r 18's are about $250. Shouldn't be a rub issue at this size right?
I think 265s will just about fit in the stock fenders with a bit of persuasion and some camber?
+38 no spacer, pretty good fit in the rear. Night and day from the plasti dipped stock rims. Just need my coilovers to bring it down a bit.
Now for the front....thanks everyone for all the input.
02-08-23, 11:01 PM
