Resurfacing rotors?
#2
This goes for all rotors, as it is the same for all types and I don't know if you will have trouble getting dimpled/drilled/slotted turned:
1. If the rotors are striaght, don't get them turned.
2. If you are installing the same kind of pads (same exact model like Green->Green, or just the same kind of material, like HPS->HP+) you don't need to do anything to the rotors.
3. If you are installing different types of pads, like HPS->Green, you should take a little sandpaper and rough up the rotor surface to remove the transfer layer of the old pads. Just scrape the surface up a bit by sanding the rotor surface in swirls. If you get the rotors turned (they were warped or something) you don't need to do this.
-Max
1. If the rotors are striaght, don't get them turned.
2. If you are installing the same kind of pads (same exact model like Green->Green, or just the same kind of material, like HPS->HP+) you don't need to do anything to the rotors.
3. If you are installing different types of pads, like HPS->Green, you should take a little sandpaper and rough up the rotor surface to remove the transfer layer of the old pads. Just scrape the surface up a bit by sanding the rotor surface in swirls. If you get the rotors turned (they were warped or something) you don't need to do this.
-Max
#3
Lives on the Forum
This is an excerpt taken from Stoptech's website:
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
Here's the entire white paper.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Read the excerpt within its context. It's interesting to note that the braking vibrations are apparently NOT due to warped rotors, but due to uneven layers of friction material laid down by the brake pads!
The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.
Here's the entire white paper.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Read the excerpt within its context. It's interesting to note that the braking vibrations are apparently NOT due to warped rotors, but due to uneven layers of friction material laid down by the brake pads!
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