RXeckless

iTrader: (11)

Email Pettit today about the rubbing issue with a pic. Ask if there's a solution in the works!
I'm grinding down the nub today about a 1/32" just for some clearance, but a set of new rear forks from Petitt would be nice. We'll see?

ALPSTA

iTrader: (3)

I emailed Pettit about the revised coilovers and seperate brackets for brake lines last week but still waiting for a reply.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Somehow I doubt they'll include new/different rear control arms with the coilovers.

RXeckless

iTrader: (11)

Cam reply:

Hi Richard,

Hope all is well up there, the contact between the rear clevis face and upper arm is a result of several factors and there are several options to correct it as follows:

#1 Our rear clevis was initially designed & tested with all new bushings, mounts etc. I personally failed to allow extra clearance for bushing compliance and the slight position changes that result with age & settling.

#2 The contact typically only occurs at full compression from bumps / pot holes, etc.. Extra weight in the rear adds bump force as well, like speakers, amps, battery and a full tank of fuel.

#3 The simple fix that is also a theoretical benefit (weight savings) is to cut off the protrusion on the arm. This is easily done with a dremel tool, file, grinder etc..

#4 For those owners who prefer not to modify the arm, we can supply modified clevis set at no cost, FYI, it is not necessary to remove the assembly to install the part.

#5 Also, if there is tire contact on top of inner rear fender (evidenced by rub marks) raising the damper to further limit up travel can also eliminate the contact.

Thanks Cam

I did #3 yesterday and I'll be taking Cam up on the #4. Problem solved Thanks Cam and the the crew at Petitt.

ALPSTA

iTrader: (3)

Sent Cam an email on 19th April regarding the brackets but no reply yet. Meanwhile here is another brake line bracket idea. If it's the right diameter for Pettit coilovers maybe Megan Racing will sell some in bulk or GB.

prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

Those same brackets come on the Apex's EVX coilovers.

Bullet13b

I emailed Pettit the other day in regards to a set of modified clevis' hopefully they'll send me a set to australia...in regards to brake line mounts I cut the mounts off my old factory struts and then slotted them in a way that I could feed a worm clamp through them works a treat and easy to do!

j03yk

Just got done installing mine. One of the piston rods was backed out much further than the others (see pic 1 vs pic 2). If I understand correctly, isn't this effectively limiting the range of travel of the shock? I'm assuming I just need to loosen that nut and drive in the threaded part of the rod? Anyone else have to do this?

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

I don't think the center nut for the uppermount is tightened all the way.

Rishie

j03yk

Is that a different nut than the one in the picture? I think that one was tight and I didn't see anything else obvious that would affect the rod height.

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

It's this nut.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...2&d=1304606135

use an impact wrench and tighten the other one.

Honestly I would remove both corners, lay them side by side, and then get them to match.

Regardless this will change your ride height so just take them off and start over again.

Remember to equalize your spring preloads on both corners.

Rishie

ARD T2

iTrader: (22)

Oh before tightening that nut you will probably need to loosen the spring perch so that it doesn't add excessive preload to the spring. This is why I suggest just removing everything and starting over again.

Remember peoples to always setup and inspect the coilovers before installing them.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

Weight savings?? haha... that's pretty ridiculous. Hopefully he was just joking.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

why are you people married to that little nub? its a control arm, no ones gonna see it. cut that crap off

j03yk

Are you sure that affects ride height and spring load? I think this is just affecting the coupling of the piston rod to the top mount which would be independent of the shock body and springs.

After checking again all the top nuts are tight. On the unit with the rod that is sticking out noticeably further, I now discovered that I could push the entire piston rod and whatever it's coupled to in by hand. Anyone know if there's another nut from the bottom side of the spring perch that should be sandwiching everything together? Maybe this is what's loose/missing.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

I'm not "married" to it.... I just don't understand why everyone is standing up for these coilovers. They were not adequately made for this car, period. The first thing I want when I buy a coilover is to not have to grind my suspension arms. The second thing is to get my car down to a 25" ride height on all 4 corners (using both lock rings ). These coilovers don't meet either of those simple conditions.

Then... I'll pick them based on what top mount its has (rubber or not), spring rates, valving, price, etc. There are plenty out there.

On top of that, Pettit seriously tried to make it sound advantageous to grind the arm (to save weight)? Too funny.

GodSquadMandrake

It's not that big of a deal really but the thing is when it comes time to sell the car, if it ever happens, what is the buyer going to think about stuff like that?

I would see it and maybe think what else has been shaved off? When I buy a car and everything is super clean and properly done I'm really impressed because I know they didn't cut corners anywhere else. Even little stuff like having all the plastic covers and catalytic converter shields. Because in my experience if you find one thing that is jimmy rigged, you'll find 100. Zip ties on fuel lines, plastic fuel filters, improper seatbelt mounting, mismatched bolts, etc. While I wouldn't mind shaving the control arm knub off on my car, and this is reasonable, someone else might not understand.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

the first thing i want when i buy coilovers is a damper that works. because thats what the heart of a coilover is- the damper. its the only thing that sets a coilover apart from every other cheap setup out there, except for the color i suppose.

Meiogirl

iTrader: (2)

because when it comes time to replace your bushings...and you decide to buy low mileage control arms for 1/3 the price instead of getting brand new ones and having them installed. You don't want to have to shave the new ones...again. for something so silly?

MattGold

iTrader: (109)

I had to relocate my battery for my intercooler (and drill holes in the body / cut out huge sections of interior components) ... I had to cut my impact bar for a 99Spec front end... I had to trim my Shine diffuser to work with my RB exhaust...


Are we kidding ourselves here? We're *modifying* cars. Sorry not everything is plug n play. I recall a time where you had to actually weld things yourself because certain stuff just wasn't available off the shelf.

If you need everything spoon fed and don't expect to have to make *some* modification for your 'mods' to work (see what I did there?) - then you have the wrong hobby.



-M

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

^^I dunno Matt, I enjoy this hobby quite a bit and the three sets of coilovers I've had on my FD have never required any of this stuff.

I will give a thumbs up to Cam for refunding at least one guy here, and seeming to stand behind his product. The price isn't bad, and if they perform well on road and track then they're certainly a viable option..... this thread is valuable because people can make an informed decision, after reading through it there shouldn't be any surprises.

Meiogirl

iTrader: (2)

That debate was had a few pages ago and it seems like things are working themselves out. I do not see why you would make these comments unless its to discredit those of us who actually bought this part and are trying to work out the issues. Whatever, we all are given the right to opinions and there are already a few rants on here anyway.

I have not called Pettit yet myself but it seems as if they are willing to meet at a certain point for the default in the mounts already out there. I am glad to see that possibly this thread has had them go back and make them properly for those whom have yet to buy them. *thumbs*

MattGold

iTrader: (109)

I'm not trying to discredit you or anyone that has (or has not) bought them. If you want to rant here as opposed to calling Pettit for a solution, have at it. The only thing I see that is relevant is, expect some modification with any modification you do to your car.

I mentioned a few items that have 'additional' modifications needed. In their current status, these coilovers require a modification to the (certain?) control arms.

Should Pettit have made this perfectly clear up front? Yes.
Does it sound like he's willing to help out people that don't like it? I think so.
Are changes being made to account for this to prevent current modifications? It sounds like it.

That said, I have these installed and may or may not have the 'issue' (sigh, still haven't checked). But if I do, I am quite confident these aren't effecting their performance or my cars drivability. From the pictures, I am assuming at full tilt, the nub is making contact with the coilover fork. It doesn't seem to be enough contact to do anything but scratch the finish. The last thing I'm worried about is the gold finish on my coilover fork.

So if the 'issue' doesn't effect the coilovers performance and doesn't effect the cars drivability - is it an issue? Just my .02... Perhaps the finish on your coilover forks are the biggest concern you have about your car, and if so, kudos to you.

But for me, there are other 'issues' with my RX-7 that require much more attention.

-M

MattGold

iTrader: (109)

I agree, I haven't seen the specific control arm nub issue either. However, I've seen RX-7 and non RX-7 coilovers without brake line mounts... and seen suspension components make contact with each other under harsh circumstances... and heard about people not being able to slam their cars enough.


So let's reiterate, the issues are:

1) No Brakeline Mounts. Really, a non-issue, BUT the 'mounts' that seem to be a 'fix' is a tab on a worm gear clamp. Unknown if Pettit will provide these mounts in the future, but there's a good chance.

2) Control Arm Nub. This either is 'SMASHING' or making contact (depending on who you ask ) with the coilover fork which results in some finish rubbing off. How big would you say that patch is? 3mm x 6mm? Fix is to grind off a non-function piece of your control arm, however, it sounds like a fix is in the works.

3) Can't Slam 'Em. Was that the third issue? People can't get the rears low enough? I have to imagine a certain type of 'tuner' may have this complaint on other coilovers as well... I understand there are collars that could be removed to 'help' with this. But also keep in mind, the coilovers were built for performance, not show. See pic for my current stance, which for me, is low enough.


Did I miss anything? From all the talk, I figured something would be really 'wrong', but from my estimate these are all very livable 'issues'.

-M

GodSquadMandrake

You missed the price. Iasati offered to sell these to me for $1,000 plus $200 shipping. Pettit is marking them up to $2,500. I find that unacceptable because they aren't really being truthful about what the product is. Here is a copy/paste from the website:

And we know they are really made in Taiwan by Iasati. They are claiming to have developed the product, no middlemen, etc when really they are the middle man. Everything we hear from Pettit is different from what Iasati says. Who isn't telling the truth? I'll believe the people who actually make the product.
After we found all this out and made it public, Pettit paid Iasati to sign a contract so they could be the exclusive USA dealer and keep charging you more than it's worth.

You wanna see where your coilovers are really made?
CLICK HERE

I'm not by any means attempting to slander Pettit or discredit Iasati. These are just the truths of the matter. I'll let you decide the rest.