The Official FC Wheel Fitment Thread
#5928
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
I know i need around a +20mm offset to fit 17x9" with 255's up front. Would it be smart to get little higher offset like a +24mm offset and add spacers to be on the safe side bc im wanting the tires/wheels the furthest inward as possible. THis would a avoid the wheels sticking out more than they need to correct?
#5931
Triangles and Cats
How much offset would I need to clear with that size?
#5933
Mac Attack
iTrader: (5)
I know i need around a +20mm offset to fit 17x9" with 255's up front. Would it be smart to get little higher offset like a +24mm offset and add spacers to be on the safe side bc im wanting the tires/wheels the furthest inward as possible. THis would a avoid the wheels sticking out more than they need to correct?
#5934
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COPY POST
I know I haven't updated in a while, but here is how she sits today. Hope to have the fenders painted soon.
Specs are:
Front: 18x9.5 +3
Rear: 18x11 -9
Overs: Front - 30mm / Rear - 25mm.
If you have anymore questions on the setup, lemme know!
I know I haven't updated in a while, but here is how she sits today. Hope to have the fenders painted soon.
Specs are:
Front: 18x9.5 +3
Rear: 18x11 -9
Overs: Front - 30mm / Rear - 25mm.
If you have anymore questions on the setup, lemme know!
#5939
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Hey guys, I'll try and keep it short. Came up with these numbers based on Ted's site and miata.net tire size calculator:
FRONT: 18x8.5 +44 with 225/40/18 (or maybe 235/35/18 if they'd fit?)
Have coilovers, and approx. -1 degrees camber, stock fenders (no rolling or anything)
I'm assuming I'd need spacers... Ted's site says I can add 10mm for coilovers. So i'd need a 10-15mm spacer? +44 is the lowest they have for 8.5, and 8.5 is the skinniest they've got too in the color combo I want.
REAR: 18x9.5 +22 with probably 255/35/18 tire (would 265/35/18 or 275/30/18 fit?)
Also have coilovers, and approx -1.5 degrees camber, stock fenders (no rolling or anything)
I'm not going for anything crazy or stance looking. I'd rather do 17s, but 18s is all they got in the style I like. Just want it to be nice and flush. Thanks in advance.
FRONT: 18x8.5 +44 with 225/40/18 (or maybe 235/35/18 if they'd fit?)
Have coilovers, and approx. -1 degrees camber, stock fenders (no rolling or anything)
I'm assuming I'd need spacers... Ted's site says I can add 10mm for coilovers. So i'd need a 10-15mm spacer? +44 is the lowest they have for 8.5, and 8.5 is the skinniest they've got too in the color combo I want.
REAR: 18x9.5 +22 with probably 255/35/18 tire (would 265/35/18 or 275/30/18 fit?)
Also have coilovers, and approx -1.5 degrees camber, stock fenders (no rolling or anything)
I'm not going for anything crazy or stance looking. I'd rather do 17s, but 18s is all they got in the style I like. Just want it to be nice and flush. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by RyoFC3S; 05-15-14 at 12:07 AM.
#5941
Triangles and Cats
Trying this again
Trying to pick up some regamasters or work meister s1r's for my 1990 vert
What offset do I need to fit 17x9 nicely on a car thats not even dropped a full inch?
Trying to pick up some regamasters or work meister s1r's for my 1990 vert
What offset do I need to fit 17x9 nicely on a car thats not even dropped a full inch?
#5942
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Sweet, thank you!
Just to clarify, it's fender pull + roll for the rears only, nothing needed for front?
So they actually have 18x9.5 +35 or +44 too. Would that work for rear? Would I still need to pull + roll the fender? Any spacers or anything?
Your help is greatly appreciated!
--
P.S.: If you have time, here are all the wheel options in the color I like. What would be ideal for front and rear? I don't care all that much about tire size, but I'd prefer 255s on the back, but could do 245 if it would make the difference. And again, I like 17s over 18s.
17x9 +35
17x9 +42
18x8.5 +44
18x9.5 +22
18x9.5 +35
18x9.5 +44
I'd also prefer not to have to roll/pull fenders.
and a fender pull and roll in the back. You need rear wheels with an offset of around +35 to get them to fit inside the fenders.
So they actually have 18x9.5 +35 or +44 too. Would that work for rear? Would I still need to pull + roll the fender? Any spacers or anything?
Your help is greatly appreciated!
--
P.S.: If you have time, here are all the wheel options in the color I like. What would be ideal for front and rear? I don't care all that much about tire size, but I'd prefer 255s on the back, but could do 245 if it would make the difference. And again, I like 17s over 18s.
17x9 +35
17x9 +42
18x8.5 +44
18x9.5 +22
18x9.5 +35
18x9.5 +44
I'd also prefer not to have to roll/pull fenders.
Last edited by RyoFC3S; 05-15-14 at 11:57 PM.
#5943
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Sweet, thank you!
Just to clarify, it's fender pull + roll for the rears only, nothing needed for front?
So they actually have 18x9.5 +35 or +44 too. Would that work for rear? Would I still need to pull + roll the fender? Any spacers or anything?
Your help is greatly appreciated!
--
P.S.: If you have time, here are all the wheel options in the color I like. What would be ideal for front and rear? I don't care all that much about tire size, but I'd prefer 255s on the back, but could do 245 if it would make the difference. And again, I like 17s over 18s.
17x9 +35
17x9 +42
18x8.5 +44
18x9.5 +22
18x9.5 +35
18x9.5 +44
I'd also prefer not to have to roll/pull fenders.
Just to clarify, it's fender pull + roll for the rears only, nothing needed for front?
So they actually have 18x9.5 +35 or +44 too. Would that work for rear? Would I still need to pull + roll the fender? Any spacers or anything?
Your help is greatly appreciated!
--
P.S.: If you have time, here are all the wheel options in the color I like. What would be ideal for front and rear? I don't care all that much about tire size, but I'd prefer 255s on the back, but could do 245 if it would make the difference. And again, I like 17s over 18s.
17x9 +35
17x9 +42
18x8.5 +44
18x9.5 +22
18x9.5 +35
18x9.5 +44
I'd also prefer not to have to roll/pull fenders.
#5944
Mac Attack
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17x9 +35 with a 10mm spacer up front would clear your suspension, and you would need wider fenders or flared-pulled stock fenders. Suspension to wheel clearance will be tighter than usual so be sure your wheel bearings are in good condition with zero play.
Rears can go without a spacer and all you would need is a rolled lip.
With this, you can run 255/40/17 on all corners.
Rears can go without a spacer and all you would need is a rolled lip.
With this, you can run 255/40/17 on all corners.
#5945
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MaczPayne, thanks for the feedback!
In an effort to get a really good grasp on this, I went kinda crazy. I just spent the last few hours running some calculations based on Trot's FC Wheel Fitment GUIDE Thread. Actually, I made a pretty cool spreadsheet that does the calculations. I crossed-checked it with RETed's recommendations from his wheel page, and it seems to line up pretty well. I also looked at a couple of specs other people said worked, and again, it pretty well seems to line up.
If anyone else sees this post, and has some wheel/offset/tire/spacer specs that they've actually installed successfully, I'd love to run them through my calculator to see how accurate it is.
One question I have is, do you agree with these pages as far as the general guidelines they give?
Here are my questions and thoughts on your suggestions:
So according to what I've been reading (and my spreadsheet), it looks like the 10mm spacer is right on for 17x9. However, it appears that wider or pulled fenders might not actually be necessary... bear with me. According to Trot's thread above, he says there's a max of about 90mm max of space between the hub and the outer lip of the wheel before you start running into clearance problems with the fender. With this width, offset, and spacer, I'm coming up with almost exactly 90mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip. But again, this relies on Trot's measurements, and there's definitely a chance I'm doing some calculations wrong, or misunderstanding his write-up. I'm wondering how you're figuring your numbers from--personal experience, another calculator?
He does say that if the tire is 'much more' than 1" wider than the rim I could run into fitment problems, but with 225 I'd actually have to slightly stretch the tire out to fit on a 9" rim, so I don't think that's a concern. 255s though would be borderline.
Also, were you taking into account my camber and lowering? Because I'm not factoring that into my numbers, and that definitely could have a profound effect. Any suggestions are welcome on this.
So, again, it looks like what I've got agrees, except on the rolled lip. From what I'm showing, I'd still have plenty of fender room with 17x9 +35; like 30mm before I even start getting close to the fender. Trot's thread says there's about 110mm of space between the hub and the fender in the rear, and I'm showing that 17x9 +35 is about 80mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip (again, leaving 30mm).
All 4 corners? Man, you're right. But now I'm really starting to doubt my calculator, because having 255s on the front without any fender rolling or anything sounds pretty crazy. I always was under the impression that 235 was pretty much the max up front without widebody, but that's just second-hand information. I actually get a little bit of rub up front on the inside of the wheel wells under heavy cornering loads with 225s...
Regardess of everything above, I'd probably still roll the fenders anyway just to be safe.
Thanks for your time. Obviously anyone else please feel free to chime in. I'm just learning all of this. I've had my FC for 11 years, but have never changed the wheels! And I like to measure twice and cut once.
In an effort to get a really good grasp on this, I went kinda crazy. I just spent the last few hours running some calculations based on Trot's FC Wheel Fitment GUIDE Thread. Actually, I made a pretty cool spreadsheet that does the calculations. I crossed-checked it with RETed's recommendations from his wheel page, and it seems to line up pretty well. I also looked at a couple of specs other people said worked, and again, it pretty well seems to line up.
If anyone else sees this post, and has some wheel/offset/tire/spacer specs that they've actually installed successfully, I'd love to run them through my calculator to see how accurate it is.
One question I have is, do you agree with these pages as far as the general guidelines they give?
Here are my questions and thoughts on your suggestions:
He does say that if the tire is 'much more' than 1" wider than the rim I could run into fitment problems, but with 225 I'd actually have to slightly stretch the tire out to fit on a 9" rim, so I don't think that's a concern. 255s though would be borderline.
Also, were you taking into account my camber and lowering? Because I'm not factoring that into my numbers, and that definitely could have a profound effect. Any suggestions are welcome on this.
Rears can go without a spacer and all you would need is a rolled lip.
With this, you can run 255/40/17 on all corners.
Regardess of everything above, I'd probably still roll the fenders anyway just to be safe.
Thanks for your time. Obviously anyone else please feel free to chime in. I'm just learning all of this. I've had my FC for 11 years, but have never changed the wheels! And I like to measure twice and cut once.
Last edited by RyoFC3S; 05-17-14 at 03:51 AM.
#5946
Mac Attack
iTrader: (5)
One question I have is, do you agree with these pages as far as the general guidelines they give?
Yeah, they are what I based my calcs on initially. I also used Blue TII's experience to see what the limits were, as he was clearly pushing them with his setup.
Here are my questions and thoughts on your suggestions:
So according to what I've been reading (and my spreadsheet), it looks like the 10mm spacer is right on for 17x9. However, it appears that wider or pulled fenders might not actually be necessary... bear with me. According to Trot's thread above, he says there's a max of about 90mm max of space between the hub and the outer lip of the wheel before you start running into clearance problems with the fender. With this width, offset, and spacer, I'm coming up with almost exactly 90mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip. But again, this relies on Trot's measurements, and there's definitely a chance I'm doing some calculations wrong, or misunderstanding his write-up. I'm wondering how you're figuring your numbers from--personal experience, another calculator? I figured these numbers based on both calculations and test fitments. I had to roll the fender lip at the very least because the tire would not clear it on compression. Also, I ran about a -1 DEG camber to tuck the tire - because some manufacturers make tires which are wider than others for a given size.
He does say that if the tire is 'much more' than 1" wider than the rim I could run into fitment problems, but with 225 I'd actually have to slightly stretch the tire out to fit on a 9" rim, so I don't think that's a concern. 255s though would be borderline.
Also, were you taking into account my camber and lowering? Because I'm not factoring that into my numbers, and that definitely could have a profound effect. Any suggestions are welcome on this. If you run enough camber (-2.5), you could tuck a 255 without doing anything to your fenders.
So, again, it looks like what I've got agrees, except on the rolled lip. From what I'm showing, I'd still have plenty of fender room with 17x9 +35; like 30mm before I even start getting close to the fender. Trot's thread says there's about 110mm of space between the hub and the fender in the rear, and I'm showing that 17x9 +35 is about 80mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip (again, leaving 30mm). This is true. There is much more room in the rear than the front.
All 4 corners? Man, you're right. But now I'm really starting to doubt my calculator, because having 255s on the front without any fender rolling or anything sounds pretty crazy. I always was under the impression that 235 was pretty much the max up front without widebody, but that's just second-hand information. I actually get a little bit of rub up front on the inside of the wheel wells under heavy cornering loads with 225s...
Regardess of everything above, I'd probably still roll the fenders anyway just to be safe.
Thanks for your time. Obviously anyone else please feel free to chime in. I'm just learning all of this. I've had my FC for 11 years, but have never changed the wheels! And I like to measure twice and cut once.
Yeah, they are what I based my calcs on initially. I also used Blue TII's experience to see what the limits were, as he was clearly pushing them with his setup.
Here are my questions and thoughts on your suggestions:
So according to what I've been reading (and my spreadsheet), it looks like the 10mm spacer is right on for 17x9. However, it appears that wider or pulled fenders might not actually be necessary... bear with me. According to Trot's thread above, he says there's a max of about 90mm max of space between the hub and the outer lip of the wheel before you start running into clearance problems with the fender. With this width, offset, and spacer, I'm coming up with almost exactly 90mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip. But again, this relies on Trot's measurements, and there's definitely a chance I'm doing some calculations wrong, or misunderstanding his write-up. I'm wondering how you're figuring your numbers from--personal experience, another calculator? I figured these numbers based on both calculations and test fitments. I had to roll the fender lip at the very least because the tire would not clear it on compression. Also, I ran about a -1 DEG camber to tuck the tire - because some manufacturers make tires which are wider than others for a given size.
He does say that if the tire is 'much more' than 1" wider than the rim I could run into fitment problems, but with 225 I'd actually have to slightly stretch the tire out to fit on a 9" rim, so I don't think that's a concern. 255s though would be borderline.
Also, were you taking into account my camber and lowering? Because I'm not factoring that into my numbers, and that definitely could have a profound effect. Any suggestions are welcome on this. If you run enough camber (-2.5), you could tuck a 255 without doing anything to your fenders.
So, again, it looks like what I've got agrees, except on the rolled lip. From what I'm showing, I'd still have plenty of fender room with 17x9 +35; like 30mm before I even start getting close to the fender. Trot's thread says there's about 110mm of space between the hub and the fender in the rear, and I'm showing that 17x9 +35 is about 80mm from the hub to the outer wheel lip (again, leaving 30mm). This is true. There is much more room in the rear than the front.
All 4 corners? Man, you're right. But now I'm really starting to doubt my calculator, because having 255s on the front without any fender rolling or anything sounds pretty crazy. I always was under the impression that 235 was pretty much the max up front without widebody, but that's just second-hand information. I actually get a little bit of rub up front on the inside of the wheel wells under heavy cornering loads with 225s...
Regardess of everything above, I'd probably still roll the fenders anyway just to be safe.
Thanks for your time. Obviously anyone else please feel free to chime in. I'm just learning all of this. I've had my FC for 11 years, but have never changed the wheels! And I like to measure twice and cut once.
#5947
Triangles and Cats
So for my vert which is hardly lowered AT ALL, will 17x9 +30ish fit well without any other modification? What specific offset would yall recommend? And please no stagger, i want to be able to rotate my tires. Just trying to get multiple opinions because work meisters ain't cheap and I don't want to make any mistakes here
#5948
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Originally Posted by JoesFC
So for my vert which is hardly lowered AT ALL, will 17x9 +30ish fit well without any other modification? What specific offset would yall recommend? And please no stagger, i want to be able to rotate my tires. Just trying to get multiple opinions because work meisters ain't cheap and I don't want to make any mistakes here
For the front, +30 would work, but you'd need a 5mm spacer, and might need to roll front fenders. Rears should be fine.
To some extent, stagger only matters if you're doing different tire sizes; technically you could have different wheels sizes/offsets with the same tire size (within limits). Unless you're saying you want to be able to rotate the wheels AND the tires yourself together (which is easier and less expensive). If that's the case, any offset from +25 up to +45 would work, but you'd need a spacer up front for anything above +25, and on back for anything above +40. But ideal I think would be 17x9 +25 because no spacers would be needed. This assumes stock suspension and camber, and a tire that is less than 1" wider than the wheel (255 or less). If you want all 4 corners the same, I'd recommend 245/40/17.
Anyone else, please feel free to confirm. I would definitely get a second opinion on this because I'm not an expert; I'm basing my numbers on other's suggestions and not personal experience.
You're really getting me thinking. I'd love to have the same tires in front and rear so I can rotate all 4, or even 2. That's the biggest problem I see with having big stagger and directional tires; no rotating.
Yeah, they are what I based my calcs on initially. I also used Blue TII's experience to see what the limits were, as he was clearly pushing them with his setup.
I figured these numbers based on both calculations and test fitments. I had to roll the fender lip at the very least because the tire would not clear it on compression. Also, I ran about a -1 DEG camber to tuck the tire - because some manufacturers make tires which are wider than others for a given size.
I figured these numbers based on both calculations and test fitments. I had to roll the fender lip at the very least because the tire would not clear it on compression. Also, I ran about a -1 DEG camber to tuck the tire - because some manufacturers make tires which are wider than others for a given size.
My FC is in the shop at the moment, but when I get it back I might try and get out there with a ruler/tape measure and see if I can get some more measurements to confirm everything.
If you run enough camber (-2.5), you could tuck a 255 without doing anything to your fenders.
This is true. There is much more room in the rear than the front.
Last edited by RyoFC3S; 05-18-14 at 06:42 PM.
#5949
Fistful of steel
iTrader: (7)
MaczPayne and I are pretty much in sync with all or our figment info, we ran very similar setups.
If you want to run a square setup with large tires with stock fenders you need a 17x9 wheel in a mid 20s offset. Honestly a +30 with a 1/4 inch spacer in front would be perfect because you would have a little more room for a 255 tire in the rear.
If you want to run 235/40 or 245/40, you can do that pretty easily with close to -2 degrees of front camber. This is a great street setup. You'll need to roll the front fenders. If you want to do 255s you'll need to roll the rear fenders too.
Here is my car on 17x9 +24 and 255/40/17 NT01s which are huge for a 255. The front just fits, the tire touches the swaybar at full lock.
This is -3 degrees camber
If you want to run a square setup with large tires with stock fenders you need a 17x9 wheel in a mid 20s offset. Honestly a +30 with a 1/4 inch spacer in front would be perfect because you would have a little more room for a 255 tire in the rear.
If you want to run 235/40 or 245/40, you can do that pretty easily with close to -2 degrees of front camber. This is a great street setup. You'll need to roll the front fenders. If you want to do 255s you'll need to roll the rear fenders too.
Here is my car on 17x9 +24 and 255/40/17 NT01s which are huge for a 255. The front just fits, the tire touches the swaybar at full lock.
This is -3 degrees camber
#5950
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MaczPayne and I are pretty much in sync with all or our figment info, we ran very similar setups.
If you want to run a square setup with large tires with stock fenders you need a 17x9 wheel in a mid 20s offset. Honestly a +30 with a 1/4 inch spacer in front would be perfect because you would have a little more room for a 255 tire in the rear.
If you want to run 235/40 or 245/40, you can do that pretty easily with close to -2 degrees of front camber. This is a great street setup. You'll need to roll the front fenders. If you want to do 255s you'll need to roll the rear fenders too.
Here is my car on 17x9 +24 and 255/40/17 NT01s which are huge for a 255. The front just fits, the tire touches the swaybar at full lock.
If you want to run a square setup with large tires with stock fenders you need a 17x9 wheel in a mid 20s offset. Honestly a +30 with a 1/4 inch spacer in front would be perfect because you would have a little more room for a 255 tire in the rear.
If you want to run 235/40 or 245/40, you can do that pretty easily with close to -2 degrees of front camber. This is a great street setup. You'll need to roll the front fenders. If you want to do 255s you'll need to roll the rear fenders too.
Here is my car on 17x9 +24 and 255/40/17 NT01s which are huge for a 255. The front just fits, the tire touches the swaybar at full lock.
But I'm impressed how big of tires you guys are fitting under stock fenders.