new shocks! Tein FLEX for FC (pics)
#1
new shocks! Tein FLEX for FC (pics)
i got these in the mail today:
they are Tein Flex, adjustable ride height and dampening
ride height before:
ride height after!
sorry for the crappy pic, it got dark out quick. I havent really adjusted the ride height yet, this is what they were set for out of the box
old shitty shocks:
not sure if i installed them backwards? is tein logo supposed to face the inside or outside?
engine bay shot:
i cant wait to try them out on some mountain runs!
they are Tein Flex, adjustable ride height and dampening
ride height before:
ride height after!
sorry for the crappy pic, it got dark out quick. I havent really adjusted the ride height yet, this is what they were set for out of the box
old shitty shocks:
not sure if i installed them backwards? is tein logo supposed to face the inside or outside?
engine bay shot:
i cant wait to try them out on some mountain runs!
#2
Lives on the Forum
Good choice! I have them and love 'em.
You do have those backwards, you want to turn them 180 degrees so that you can get some negative camber. You're probably positive in front right now.
Get it aligned ASAP!
You do have those backwards, you want to turn them 180 degrees so that you can get some negative camber. You're probably positive in front right now.
Get it aligned ASAP!
#3
I'm bastardizing my car!
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yeah, your pillow mounts are backwards. You want it so you can tilt the shocks towards the center of the car. Otherwise, you get little camber adjustment.
#4
Senior Member
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dude you are gonna love them, i recently got super drifts which are a tad stiffer and i love them. i personally think they were too bouncy at full stiff on the street, i have them at full soft. i might play with the height more and i also have to install the EDFC. good luck with them.
#6
i fixed the backwards fronts tonight.. took it for a drive on the "8" setting all around, very stiff, but drives awesome
i think the super streets dont have adjustable camber up front, nor full length adjustment. flex has both spring seat and shock height adjustments.
Originally Posted by kao393
dont mean to thread jack, but, what's the diff between super streets and the flex?
#7
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If you haven't already, GET IT ALIGNED NOW!! When you lower the car it changes camber (especially in the rear) and toe (all around), which could wear out your tires in no time if you haven't gotten an alignment. It's a good idea to get a camber rod for the rear to take out some of that negative camber if you don't already have one.
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#8
Rotary Freak
Join Date: Apr 2004
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tein SS dont even come with camber plates do they?
nice choice on the FLEXs! Ive had mine for years and years and theyre nothing but amazing. I love them. great travel, short droop and good range of stiffness for the street and track.
nice choice on the FLEXs! Ive had mine for years and years and theyre nothing but amazing. I love them. great travel, short droop and good range of stiffness for the street and track.
#9
If you haven't already, GET IT ALIGNED NOW!! When you lower the car it changes camber (especially in the rear) and toe (all around), which could wear out your tires in no time if you haven't gotten an alignment. It's a good idea to get a camber rod for the rear to take out some of that negative camber if you don't already have one.
thanks for the comments
#10
Lives on the Forum
The camber rod replaces the stock subframe link that's right by the front diff mount. The DTSS bushings aren't that hard to do. I did mine myself in maybe 4 hours using the basic technique as outlined on the TeamFC3S forum.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=19856
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=19856
#13
backfox.com is your friend
they were just under $1400 shipped from rx7store
the camber is pretty bad in the back, i jacked up the rear to find it already had a camber rod installed.. and it looks like its cranked all the way, the subframe almost touches the diff
they were just under $1400 shipped from rx7store
the camber is pretty bad in the back, i jacked up the rear to find it already had a camber rod installed.. and it looks like its cranked all the way, the subframe almost touches the diff
#14
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (7)
Nice, how long did it take you to get them? I'm going to see if I can get KGparts to price match so I can just pick them up from his shop.
I have the rear camber bar also (Its siezed now of course), but I plan on getting the rear camber links from AWR. Hopefully I can get the camber in the rear about even on both sides.
I have the rear camber bar also (Its siezed now of course), but I plan on getting the rear camber links from AWR. Hopefully I can get the camber in the rear about even on both sides.
#15
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#17
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You should be careful when using the individual adjusters, especially if you have harder than stock bushings in your rear control arms. When you adjust the camber using the individual adjusters it twists the bushings and can lead to binding in the suspension, which is very bad. My reccomendation is to adjust the camber to the desired setting using the camber rod, then even it out side to side with the individual pieces, adjusting them equal and opposite amounts to make the twisting of the bushings as small as possible.
#19
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Nice, how long did it take you to get them? I'm going to see if I can get KGparts to price match so I can just pick them up from his shop.
I have the rear camber bar also (Its siezed now of course), but I plan on getting the rear camber links from AWR. Hopefully I can get the camber in the rear about even on both sides.
I have the rear camber bar also (Its siezed now of course), but I plan on getting the rear camber links from AWR. Hopefully I can get the camber in the rear about even on both sides.
other people have had good luck with slotting the holes where the adjusters would go ( so they dont have to buy the ind. adj.'s) and using the slots to dial out the negative camber in each arm. you dont need much slotting either.
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