Need brake help again
#1
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Need brake help again
Alright, got the brakes on now, now I have to pump the brakes twice to get the normal braking from them, I'm assuming that has something to do with the ABS right? Do I need to reset it somehow or what? Also, is 9.5 too wide to go on the front and 10.5 too wide to go on the rear, without a widebody kit?
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I did bleed the system. I did it with the car off, not sure if that matters for some reason. I was also told to diconnect the negative battery cable and hold down the brake pedal for 30 seconds and reconnect the battery cable, but that didn't work either.
#4
Are you an experienced brake bleeder? This may seem like a silly question, but in my opinion it is easy to make a mistake when bleeding the brakes. It might be worth describing how you bled them in case there is something amiss with your process.
Did the brake fluid reservoir ever go dry while you were bleeding the brakes? If so, you probably have some air in the lines or even the ABS system. You may need to pump a lot of fluid through the system (bleed, bleed, bleed, bleed) to get all the air out.
When was the last time you bled the brakes on that car and flushed all the existing brake fluid out? Sometimes the bleeding itself leads to some damage to the master cylinder. You don't take the master cylinder through the full stroke when the system is closed for normal braking. As the fluid gets old, corrosion and/or dirt can build up at the end of the stroke on the master cylinder piston bore(s). Then when you finally bleed the brakes (using a method that involves pedal pumping), you can damage the seal(s) inside the master cylinder as the piston(s) sweep past the junk at the end of the pedal travel. I had this happen on my daily driver that probably hadn't been flushed/bled in 5 years -- the pedal was a little soft before the bleed (just a bit spongy) and then afterward it was terrible and clearly not sealing well (travel was long and the pedal would drop during braking). The only solution is to get a new or reman master cylinder. Sure enough, the problem with my daily driver was immediately fixed when I replaced the master cylinder.
-Max
Did the brake fluid reservoir ever go dry while you were bleeding the brakes? If so, you probably have some air in the lines or even the ABS system. You may need to pump a lot of fluid through the system (bleed, bleed, bleed, bleed) to get all the air out.
When was the last time you bled the brakes on that car and flushed all the existing brake fluid out? Sometimes the bleeding itself leads to some damage to the master cylinder. You don't take the master cylinder through the full stroke when the system is closed for normal braking. As the fluid gets old, corrosion and/or dirt can build up at the end of the stroke on the master cylinder piston bore(s). Then when you finally bleed the brakes (using a method that involves pedal pumping), you can damage the seal(s) inside the master cylinder as the piston(s) sweep past the junk at the end of the pedal travel. I had this happen on my daily driver that probably hadn't been flushed/bled in 5 years -- the pedal was a little soft before the bleed (just a bit spongy) and then afterward it was terrible and clearly not sealing well (travel was long and the pedal would drop during braking). The only solution is to get a new or reman master cylinder. Sure enough, the problem with my daily driver was immediately fixed when I replaced the master cylinder.
-Max
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Tem120
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
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09-07-15 09:53 AM