Hows the anodizing hold up on these?

I know the cheap *** ones from vatozone/ebay flake off and chip easy as hell.

I want some hot lugs to go with my new wheels.

 

These ones hold up real well. ARe you talking Spline?

I got these on hand. They hold up even better than the RAY's and Work nuts.

Rishie

 

I got some for mine but Ive only had them for about a week. I've dropped them a few times on accident on concrete and they did not chip, i'd they they hold up pretty well

 

You should have mentioned the brand of lug nuts in your other thread. That would have stopped all the posts that weren't helping. Yes you can torque those to factory specs.

 

i have muteki sr48 neo chrome
ive only off/on'd them 3 times so far, but the threads are still rainbow colored. (no metal showing)

 

Had them for about 3 years and they're still just as clean as the first day I got them.

 

I've had them in black for over 4 yrs and they look good as new. Probably a couple of dozen or more install/removes by this time.

Jack

 

Thank god. you get what you pay for.

Thanks guys!

 

Helping to do what exactly?

If you mean posts that were counter to using aluminum lug nuts, then no, they weren't helping.

Please, since this is another thread, they couldn't cite a good reason for choosing aluminum lug nuts other than aethetics. Can you provide a sound engineeering reason for them?

I'm really open minded to new things.

GD

 

I don't know of any Muteki lugs that are aluminum. All the ones I see that they sell are 1008steel or chrome vanadium steel which would have stopped the whole stupid debate. However, Rays and SKUNK2 which are two of the "supposed" higher end lugs both offer aluminum (Duralumin or AL7075) based lugs. I'd say at least Rays has done more research or "sound engineering" on them than your typically internet wheel engineer.

 

I know this isn't the thread about aluminum lug nuts, but I'll post it here anyway. I bought some used wheels for my Evo9 and they came with some aluminum lug nuts. I weighed them and they were around 1.5 lbs lighter than the factory lug nuts. I know it's at the center of the rotation, but that is still quite a bit. That being said, I probably wouldn't have spent my money on them if the wheels hadn't come with them.

 

You're fine. Keep them. Torque to 80ft.lbs

Rishie

 

Have you weighed the wheel assemblies to see the total gain/loss from the rotaing assemblies? Personally, 1.5 lb is easliy lost from somewhere else that is not as critical

Hey! It's all good! Besides, if a wheel comes loose, sue Rishie!

GD

 

Mr. Gawd - awful attititude.

They didn't buy them from me, I am not the manufacturer, your comment about me makes no sense and has no grounds.

It's quite interesting how you're willing to invest so much energy into the ANTI-ALUMINUM lugnut movement.

You are creating unnecessary concern for a lot of these people. i have yet to date in 11 years of selling these types of lugnuts encountered and complaints about failure or wheels coming loose. Fortunately I only sell products from reputable manufacturers and brands.

Anyways, tread lightly with your comments please. If you want to open your mouth keep it diplomatic so you don't burn potential bridges you might need to cross one day.

Rishie

 

In any case people are always trying to shave weight off their wheel assembly to reduce unsprung weight.

i know guys who spend thousands on forged wheels to save 1-2 lbs per corner in unsprung weight.

Now if someone could save that much just by changing to lighter reputable lugnuts and spending $100.00 then more power to them.