McPherson Strut Bore I.D.
01-16-12, 03:37 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
McPherson Strut Bore I.D.
I am working out some suspension issues for next season and I have a quick question. What is the bore I.D. on a stock FC front strut?
I am trying to see if I can make it work with some other 3 Way adjustable strut setups that I have. They are designed for a Cougar and they just need the spindle mount ears fabbed up or adapted on. I am trying to keep it low buck and if the stock strut bore is a 2" I.D., that would be awesome. I have the same issue in the rear as I have to change from a slide in and clamp to an eyebolt setup, but I can have a can fabbed up with a bearing inside it to replace the eyebolt.
Any ideas about a quick and dirty way to do this would be great. Don't say sell the struts, as there are about 3 full race Cougars in the world and I happen to own one that came with 3 sets of 2 and 3 way adjustables and these are brand new.
Regards,
Eric
I am trying to see if I can make it work with some other 3 Way adjustable strut setups that I have. They are designed for a Cougar and they just need the spindle mount ears fabbed up or adapted on. I am trying to keep it low buck and if the stock strut bore is a 2" I.D., that would be awesome. I have the same issue in the rear as I have to change from a slide in and clamp to an eyebolt setup, but I can have a can fabbed up with a bearing inside it to replace the eyebolt.
Any ideas about a quick and dirty way to do this would be great. Don't say sell the struts, as there are about 3 full race Cougars in the world and I happen to own one that came with 3 sets of 2 and 3 way adjustables and these are brand new.
Regards,
Eric
01-16-12, 05:36 PM
#2
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custom strut housings are made from thick wall tubing, so just buy the thickwall tube with an ID that matches your struts OD, weld a plate on the bottom& drill mounting hole*, and the ears for the spindle and you're done.
actually if you need them i think we've got a full box of ears, and even the brake line clips
*the ones i've got are for a bilstein, so there is a stud at the bottom and the shock gets secured to the housing with a nut. koni wants a gland nut at the top, which means you tap a thread. i'm not sure how yours would work.
actually if you need them i think we've got a full box of ears, and even the brake line clips
*the ones i've got are for a bilstein, so there is a stud at the bottom and the shock gets secured to the housing with a nut. koni wants a gland nut at the top, which means you tap a thread. i'm not sure how yours would work.
01-16-12, 08:34 PM
#3
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Thats kind of how I was thinking of doing it. The only difference to what you were talking about was welding on a washer on the bottom of the pipe to add support and still allow access for the bottom adjuster. The pipe piece will need to be held in place with either a crimp bolt on ears or retained by the existing arm on the side of the strut. The only thing that needsto be thought out is the length of the pipe to the ears as Iexpect that the ears are longer than the area below the machined boss on the strut.
I will send you a PM about those ears. They would help out a ton. Thanks.
Eric
I will send you a PM about those ears. They would help out a ton. Thanks.
Eric
01-17-12, 11:59 AM
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Thats kind of how I was thinking of doing it. The only difference to what you were talking about was welding on a washer on the bottom of the pipe to add support and still allow access for the bottom adjuster. The pipe piece will need to be held in place with either a crimp bolt on ears or retained by the existing arm on the side of the strut. The only thing that needsto be thought out is the length of the pipe to the ears as Iexpect that the ears are longer than the area below the machined boss on the strut.
I will send you a PM about those ears. They would help out a ton. Thanks.
Eric
I will send you a PM about those ears. They would help out a ton. Thanks.
Eric
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