If you buy direct from HRE that is the price you will pay. Some vendors will give a slight discount but it’s not much. I’ve used Peter Kop in the past for HRE’s and he seems to have the best pricing.

 

Look for some posts from @GoodfellaFD3S He had various sizing recommendations for 8.5 wide front wheels.

 

Any photos of the those TEs on your car? I'm looking to run the RX7 in some time trials next year and I'm trying to decide what to buy. Max tire size is 285, so a 285/30/18 CR-S could be perfect. Technically a 285/30/18 has a max wheel width of 10.5, but I'm sure it could be run on a 11" wheel.

I've been trying to see the options for a 10-11 wide wheel for it. Looks like I can get those TEs for around $540 apiece from Japan. Apex wheels has a 18x11 +52 that fits with a spacer and are a bit more expensive at $750 for their forge line and $470 for their flow formed. Konig has a 18x11 +40 that might fit and is a bit cheaper at $300. Enkei has the GTC02 in 18x10.5 +45 but I think I would rather have the TEs at the same price. Sakebomb has the RZ+ in 18x10.5 +45 at $625 per wheel. If I go for a 18x10 there seems to be a lot more readily available and cheaper options. I'm leaning towards the TEs at this point since they are about the widest that will fit. I'm not a huge fan of some of the wheels like the PF06. If I did an 18x10, I would consider the mazda motorsports wheels, but probably would still do te37s at about the same price.

 

Great thread thank you

 

Been off the forum for years but finally picked up another FD a few months ago. Getting ready to make some improvements to the car.

Picked up some new wheels last month and wanted to see what you guys thought on fitment before I order tires.

I think the wheels will fit a FD good with the fender lips rolled, aftermarket rear trailing arms, coilovers, correct tire sizing and a little camber.

My car currently has Tokico struts with lowering springs and stock fender lips and trailing arms.

The HRE wheels were setup for a Supra and the rear tires at too tall for a FD at 27.6” 305/40/18 Nitto Drag radials. Fronts have stretched 245/35/18 tires that are worn out. So I will be replacing all the tires.

Current ride height is 26” rear and 25.5” front on 255/35/18 front tires and 255/40/18 rear.

Both front outer lips have curb damage and one inner front barrel is bent on the HRE wheels. So they will need replaced. So I figured I would work out the FD fitment then if I need to change the offset/backspace I could change lip/barrel size or keep it tie same.

Haven’t gotten to do a test fit on the ground yet of the HREs as they have the Supra hub center bore of 60.1mm and I still need to open it up to 67.1mm.

Below are the specs on the wheels and what I was thinking for tires. Let me know what you guys think.

HRE 540 Reverse Lip 3-Piece Wheels:

Front - 18x9.5”
Backspace - 6.94”
Offset - 43
Outer lip - 1.5”
Inner Barrel - 8”

Rear - 18x11”
Backspace - 7.85”
Offset - 47
Outer Lip - 3”
Inner Barrel - 8”

Tires:

Toyo R888R

Front
255/35/18 (slight stretch on 9.5”, would prefer a little wider)
265/35/18 (little tall for a FD at 25.3”)

Rear
295/30/18

Or possibly Falken 615s in 315/30/18 as they run very narrow for a 315 and would be close to overall height of 265/35/18 at 25.4”.

Tire width info

Toyo R888R

295/30/18
On 10.5” rim
Section width - 11.9”
Tread width - 11.4”
Height - 25”

315/30/18
On 11” run
Section width - 12.6”
Tread width - 12.1
Height - 25.5”

Falken RT615K

On 11” rim
315/30/18
Section width 12.4”
Tread width - 11.6”
Height - 25.5”


Not sure if the narrow Falken 315s would fit and would be very close for sure. But I think the 295 R888Rs would be a good option as well.

 

You can rebarrel the fronts to match the rear specs since you said they need 2x outer and 1x inner anyways.

315/30-18 square or 295/30-18 for the tires that run wide.

I just got 4x 315/30-18 Falken scrubs I will be mounting up on my 18x11 +45 so I will let you know if I have less than the extra 2mm you need.

 

Yeah that would be interesting to see if the narrow Falken 315/30/18s would fit. Please let me know how the test fit goes. When do you think you will try them out?


I was thinking as well about just buying the 1 extra inner barrel for the front and switching them to 10.5”

Rebarreled 1” wider fronts:
18x10.5”
Backspace - 7.44”
Offset - 43
Outer lip - 2”
Inner Barrel - 8.5”

If I tried to match the rears 11” wide on the fronts I would end up with 7.94” backspace and 49mm. So I would think that would hit even aftermarket trailing arms. But 10.5” fronts should work.

Those wider fronts would work well with 295/30/18 and be 25” tall.

Then run the 18x11 47mm rears as is with Falken 315/30/18.

I will wait to hear back from you on if the 315 Falkens fit. I could always run a 2mm rear spacer to match your 45 offset one if needed.

 

Got wheel hubs opened up from 60.1mm to 67.1mm and got a test fit with the very tall 305/40/18 drag radials and 18x11 47 offset rear wheels.

Fit surprisingly well for being 2.7” taller than most common selected 25” tall FD tire sizes. These tires are 12.3” section width and the Falken 315/30/18s are 12.6”

Seems possible the 315 Falkens could fit. Being only .150” of addition section width on each side. The 11” rim of course is hitting the stock trailing arms, almost touching the stock swap bar end link and is very close to the Tokico struts. I will post some pictures of the conflicts below.

I would think with aftermarket trailing arms and 2.5” diameter spring coilovers fitment would be good for the wheels.

The 305 tire has 1/8” to the stock trailing arms and of course of hits body up front of the wheel well and is almost resting on the stock fender lips. But not as bad as expected with the 27.6” tire diameter. Of course I just wanted to test fit these and had no intentions of using the tires. The wheels just came off a Supra and this size drag radials is common for MK4s.

 

Conflicts with 305/40/18 Nitto 18x11 47 offset rear wheel with stock trailing arms, Tokico struts and sway bar end link.

 

How much toe in do you have in the rear?

My 18x11 +45 have more than 5mm to stock trailing arm BUT I am at 0 toe.

 

Haven’t really driven the car yet or checked the alignment specs. But just looking from above it does seems to have some toe in. I will check it out when I get home tonight.

 

Here are some pics of 18x11 +45 T37 with 315/30-18 Falken RT660. I wound the springs perches all the way down so you can see how tire tucks.

Max front camber plus offset bushing on lower arm
Minimum rear camber (will add)






​​​​​​​

 

 

Did you have to pull the rear fender at all for the 315, or just a roll? How's the clearance to the inside?

 

The rear is partially rolled- not folded flat against inside metal.
I started to see the reflection around the fender arch change while rolling the thick layered rear fender arch and didnt want that.

I am running minimum available rear camber (-1.3? Deg at 25.5") and the tire sidewall touches the lip when you cycle rear suspension-.

It will require -1.5 to -2 degrees rear camber to run without any rubbing- or for me to roll the rear lip all the under which I dont want to.

 

The tire isn't fully touching the ground...

 

Yup, I didnt like my FC at 5.5 deg front camber, but it was faster.



I might not like this either. Not sure what the camber is at ride height yet, but that looks like 4 degrees with tire in fender.

 

What tire size and air pressure is that on the FC?
I get how it's probably getting squashed flat in the corners (and probably also providing some turn-in from camber thrust), but it has to compromise braking somewhat.

 

Braking is impacted and camber thrust can be an issue where the car is pushed to the side of the tire with lower traction.

Braking distance isnt that much worse, but it is touchy on initial braking- as you say, until the weight transfer of braking is in effect there isnt as much tire contact patch.

On the FC with -5.5deg I ran those 225/50-16, 235/40-17 and 255/40-17.
pretty much no noticeable downsides on the 225/50-16 shown, only moderate with the 255/40-17 and really bad with the 235/40-17 short sidewall.

I found by accident I really liked the 225/50-16 hankook RS-3 at mid 40s psi tire pressure when I aired them up to get drifty and instead they had more grip under all conditions. I later read many people experienced this with the RS-3.

The 17s were all NT01 and I liked them in the low to mid 30s psi.

 

My update with the 315/30-18 on 18x11 +45.

With eccentric front lower control arm bushing and camber as in last pic the front tire has full compression and full steering lock. The amount of static camber required is NOT for the street and may not be to my liking on track.

But I am going to try it.

The rear tire however is stuck between the rolled rear fender lip and the coilover lower mount/shock body when it is between tucking half to all the rear tire (doesnt get full suspension compression without contact.)
I could roll the rear fender arches more, but the roll will become a pull and show in the cars body lines and I dont like that look.

At minimum I need to make an eccentric rear shock bushing for the rear upper suspension arm.
The rear tire will probably rub the rear seat seatbelt boss as other 314/30-18 enjoyers have found- but its a nice smooth small nub- not an issue. People have smacked it in with a well aimed hammer blow. I will monitor how glazed the tire inner sidewall gets before I resort to the hammer.

295/30-18 on 18x11 +45 requires a fender roll and alignment. Easy mode.

315/30-18 on 18x11 +45 requires a fender roll, eccentric bushings and an alignment. A lot more work. A lot more camber.

 

FD with stock fenders, slightly lowered on Öhlins FP Spec Touring coilovers. Building a set of custom wheels, but this is the configuration i have come up with.
Will there be fitment issues? From what i read here, it should be fine? Its no problem to go smaller, but then im sacrificing the almost identical tire height and circumference.

Front:
245/35-18 ET41,2

Rear:
285/35-18 ET47,5


l

 

Depending on tire manufacturer and model you will need between -0.5 to -1 degrees front camber and you will need -1.5 degrees rear camber minimum measured with ride height at 25.5" from ground to top of fender arch.

Based off my experiences with my car (fenders not pushed in by autobody repair and subframes straight).

 

Thanks for the reply <3
The fronts will fit, as my current tires (245/40-17) fits well without rubbing or any other problems, and with the 0.5 inch wider barrels on this set there will be more stretch = more clearance.
It is the rears that confound me and I am really struggling to decide what to do here. I love the rim faces that i have bought (Desmond Koenig) but with them being 3-piece its so many options when rebuilding them.
I see that the Sakebomb wheels are 9.5" wide and runs 255 tires in the pictures i have found. And i am at 10" with 285. So i could go down in size if that gives me more clearance? Tho i do not like a lot of tire stretch. It should look like a functioning car.

What changes/adjustments/specs would you recommend if you could choose?

Here is how it sits with the 17" barrels and lip (1.5" lip) in the rear:

 

Done a bit of reading here and it seems like the go-to no-camber, square fitment for an fd is 18x10+50 with 285/30s and a 5mm spacer in the rear.
As you could run +45s and get rid of the spacer, I'm assuming it doesn't fit the front, or people would've recommended that in the first place.
Can anyone confirm this?

Also what if you have the Seibon +10mm front fenders?
Would you be able to run 285/30s on 18x10+45 all around if you have these fenders?

 

The very classic 18x10 +50 square fitment works with stock unrolled front fenders if you max the front camber (its race fitment anyways).

If you run 0 camber you will have to roll front fender lip under to run 285/30-18.

To run +45 offset you will need ~ -1.5 front camber and rolled under front fender lips to have full no rub clearance with 285/30-18.

+45 offset allows wider 11" wheel width though such as my 2013 18x11 +35 295/30-18 square fitment. Rolled front fenders with max feont camber. Some camber out bavk or rolled rear fenders and no camber.