Does anyone know if a set of 17x10 +38 RPF1's will clear a Stoptech ST40 kit? I know they fit over EVO and STI brakes. Looking to pick up a set of these to replace my NT03's for track.

 

Print out the template off of their website. I have the same wheels and checked the template and it worked. I don't know if it was the st40, it was the fd kit.

 

The ST40 I have is the smaller of the calipers so that means I should be good to go! The problem with the template is you need the wheel to check the clearance.. which I don't have lol.

 

I contacted someone ("King"?) at Enkei via their facebook page before I got my PF01s to make sure they cleared my ST40 calipers. He was able to give me the swept profile to ensure they don't interfere. You should do that before purchasing.

 

Can anyone confirm that an 18x10 +15 will work on the rear with a roll?

 

I have 18x10.5 +15 all around on my car with pulled fenders. Pictures in my build thread

 

Funkspectrum Can anyone confirm that an 18x10 +15 will work on the rear with a roll?

Depends on tire width really. Offset centers the tire...

... and that offset is far off center toward the outside, so a narrower tire will be required versus ideal +45/50 offset.

You will need just a roll with -1.5+ camber to fit 245 on that 18x10 +15.

You will need a roll and a pull with -1.5+ camber to fit 255 on that 18x10 +15.

You will need a roll and huge 3/4" pull or flare with -1.5 or roll and pull with -2.5+ camber to fit 265 on that 18x10 +15.

Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

 

Thank you,

I'm gonna err on the side of caution and go with a higher offset wheel. I'm not sure I wanna toss on wider fenders in the rear.

 

As far as how "flush" or "stance" you want it.

I can tell you from my experience, with my 18x10.5 +38 and 265/35-18 or later my 18x11 +45 285/30-18 (same fitment to fender) with -1.5 camber rear and -2.4 camber front-

a straight edge across the face of the wheel with car at ~25 1/4" ride height to fender arch just touches the top of the fender arches (rolled lip under) as well (flush).

So, using that site you can adjust how much more you want the wheels to stick out or sink in.

Each degree of camber will pull in/push out the top of the wheel ~4mm and the top of the tire ~6mm.

 

Can one completely avoid rubbing with a 265/35/18 on 18x11 (on 2.5" OD coilovers) with low camber on the right offset (+45) and running ~5" of ground clearance?

 

Depends on the 265/35-28. Some are too tall and will want to rub on mudflaps at the back of the wheel arch if you have them and on the front inner fender liner. You are looking for tires as close to 25 tall as you can.

I don't mean to sound like your mom, but a 265/35-18 on an 18x11 is 1/2" more stretch than I would run.

If you rolled the front fender lips under and the 265 wasn't too tall you would still need around -2 degrees camber up front and -1.5 camber rear with stock fenders (or no rear camber if rolled rear fender lips) from my experience.

You can roll and pull the fronts to run a little less camber, but you would have to cut the fender liner at the wheel arch or slot the mounting holes and move it outward or find a way to tuck the fender liner up if you don't want it to hang down over the tire and rub on bumps.

 

Understood on the stretch, I'm used to looking at the section width and going to the nearest half inch of wheel. The tires I'm looking at are 10.7" section width, which rounds out to 11", but 10.5" would work just fine, just make the breakaway a bit less progressive.

Without rolling, would the 10.5" and 2.5" OD springs without being slammed allow for low camber numbers and no rubbing at all?

 

No rolling on the front along with low camber?

Nope, can't fit too much on an FD that way. The front wheel arch lip really catches tires turning going up steep inclines.

If you are trying to do that best to stick to full 50 offset which will limit you to 10.5 wide wheel before you start hitting suspension. Short 265/35-18 on 18x10.5 +50 and -1.5 camber *might* clear stock front fender lips turning sharp up inclines.

255/35-18 on 18x9.5 +50 would be the safe fitment for low camber and no front fender lip roll.

 

Finally think I've got it.

255/35-18 Fronts on Enkei PF07 18x9 +40 (highest offset this wheel comes in)
295/30-18 Rears on Enkei PF07 18x10.5 +15 + spacer (Pettit rear flares are on the car)

Will the front fit with no issues? Will backspace be sufficient to clear suspension bits? Any other things I need to keep in mind?

 

Nemo128 Finally think I've got it.

255/35-18 Fronts on Enkei PF07 18x9 +40 (highest offset this wheel comes in)

Front will fit with stock front fender lip and not catch if lots of camber (-2 degrees +).
Or
Front will fit with rolled front fender lip and low camber.

295/30-18 Rears on Enkei PF07 18x10.5 +15 + spacer (Pettit rear flares are on the car)

Rear 10.5" w/295 will be one inch from anything suspension related at +15 offset and ofc further by the amount of what ever spacers you add.

 

Thanks! What if I bring it in with a lower offset to avoid rolling? Can I clear the inside?

EDIT: Sorry, I see you answered similar before. Looks like you suggest 255/35-18 on 18x9.5 +50 but this wheel only offers a +40 max. Maybe I can't avoid rolling...

 

Nemo, pretty sure I saw your FD over in the paint booth by the old shop location right?

Which tires are you looking into? The 255/295 split is a good choice in size, only issue is most 'appropriate' tires available will probably run you about as much as the wheels--- R888, AD08R.

 

Yep, that's the one. I'm not worried about the tire cost, only the best option for the job.

 

Chris right? I like the way you think

Recommend Yoko Advan AD08R....... more streetable than the R888 and just as sticky on the street

 

So how many of y'all have been successful with rolling/pulling fenders without paint cracking or damage?

 

|o


What I do is score a line with a sharp hobby knife to the metal on the inner fender lip around the fender lip at the edge and then do the usual heat and roll.

The paint does chip off on the inner lip, but stops at the score line. I have had to use crazy glue at the score line where the paint on the fender side started to lift. Then I use touch up paint on the inner lip.

So, I can't say paint isn't harmed with this method- just not paint you can readily see.

 

If I want to run 17" 255s all around without rolling the fenders, without changing the geometry, and with optimal rim width (for the tire) and tire diameter (for the suspension geometry/gearing), what would I need?

255/40/17 on a 17X9.5 +50 back and front? Or what?

 

Yep, you got it.

17x9.5 +50 front and rear would be ideal for 255/40-17 and will clear stock fenders (might need to be on the higher side of stock allowable front camber around -1).

It won't be "flush", it will be functional.

 

I don't care if it's flush, but it absolutely needs to not stick out or scrape. And ideally I don't want to make the steering heavy or flighty...

 

If you find out what the offset for zero scrub radius is, let me know.