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Anybody looking for some lightweight Titan TR10's 18x10 +50? I think I'm gonna get rid of a set I've been holding hostage with the dream of getting a FD one day. Sadly I don't think that's gonna happen. I still have my Turbo II but these won't fit without massive spacers. This is what I used to call the maxcooper fitment back in the day, like way back. 18x10 +50 with 285's square. Don't mind the Michelins. Those are not the tires on these 10J's. Pic just for reference.
I have Volk RE 30s
Front 17x8.5 +40 Thinking 245/40
Rear 17x9.5 +42 Thinking 265/35
Is it advised to go wider?
Will you be competing? if not, no reason at all to go wider. Don't seem to be many tires available in those specific sizes though... You could run 245/40-17 fronts with 255/40-17 rears, lots of selection in Extreme Perf 200tw tires in those sizes. Alternative front sizes would be 235/40-17 (limited tires available in this size) or 235/45-17 (more options).
Alos what tire options are currently available for a street/track tire. Over the years they have been tires that have come and gone that I see people like. Just want to see what is advised now..
Fastest 200tw tires are Yok A052 and Bridgestone RE71RS. But they sacrifice life and length of track stint for maximum grip over a few laps.
FWIW I've daily-driven and tracked these over the past few years on my BRZ all throughout track season. IMO they're very streetable, and even offer a ton of wet grip when newish. I found the RE71RS to be particularly sensitive to track conditions, they were fastest with cool track temps.
There are other/better options if you need more tire life and/or want good grip throughout a 15+ minute track sessions, or just wanna save a few $$$. Falken RT660 are a few ticks slower but cheaper. Kumho V730 might be an option as well. Etc. Check out Tire Rack website for a good selection of 200tw tires. Also Nitto NT01 are an option as well as Nankang CR-S (neither available from Tire Rack), and I think they may give you a 275 width option...
Will you be competing? if not, no reason at all to go wider. Don't seem to be many tires available in those specific sizes though... You could run 245/40-17 fronts with 255/40-17 rears, lots of selection in Extreme Perf 200tw tires in those sizes. Alternative front sizes would be 235/40-17 (limited tires available in this size) or 235/45-17 (more options).
Fastest 200tw tires are Yok A052 and Bridgestone RE71RS. But they sacrifice life and length of track stint for maximum grip over a few laps.
FWIW I've daily-driven and tracked these over the past few years on my BRZ all throughout track season. IMO they're very streetable, and even offer a ton of wet grip when newish. I found the RE71RS to be particularly sensitive to track conditions, they were fastest with cool track temps.
There are other/better options if you need more tire life and/or want good grip throughout a 15+ minute track sessions, or just wanna save a few $$$. Falken RT660 are a few ticks slower but cheaper. Kumho V730 might be an option as well. Etc. Check out Tire Rack website for a good selection of 200tw tires. Also Nitto NT01 are an option as well as Nankang CR-S (neither available from Tire Rack), and I think they may give you a 275 width option...
Might as well run the same 17x9.5 +42 front and rear- there is no meed to build more understeer into the chassis.
You dont "need" a wider wheel and tire if your not competing in timed events- just more $ for tires.
some of the same old street and track tires are still loved by enthusiasts such as NT01, R888/R888R and there is a rash of new 200utqg tires that are just as fast.
budget.
Federal 595 RS-R and RS-RR are by far cheapest and perform decent.
Nankang CR1/S or AR1 are pretty good price and a bit faster.
NT01/R888 are decent price.
the fastest 200utqg tires are $$$ necause racers have to use them to fit their class and tire rack typically buys all 9f tje good ones and controls the price.
thanks for the reply.
I already have the wheels so the 8.5 for front will happen.
On the tire discussion piece, just went through the decision process. I found Tire Rack's reviews and the GRM Ultimate Tire chart were most helpful in finding the Pareto optimal performance mix for my intended use.
If I was theoretically going to get some RPF1s for my 255s (can't afford to run tires any bigger than this, nor do I need to), would 17x9.5 38+ be the perfect fit, or should I stick with 9J just to get enough offset (45)? Or would it not make much difference either way?
I know I should ideally go with 18x9.5s (though 10s would be better) +45s and get new tires, since 18s would allow *many* more size options with the most popular tires.... but again, 17 255s all around is enough.
(RPF1s because I have wanted them since I was like 20)
Last edited by Valkyrie; Apr 18, 2023 at 01:29 AM.
I picked up a set of these ZE40s in gunmetal and I’m 100% happy with them!
Had some 285/30/18, RE71rs installed… love how they fit on the car.
Super fast shipping from Mazda Motorsports too, ordered on Monday and had them by Friday.
@TeamRX8 Thanks again for sharing
I couldn’t remember where I see these posted before on here.
I picked up a set of these ZE40s in gunmetal and I’m 100% happy with them!
Had some 285/30/18, RE71rs installed… love how they fit on the car.
Super fast shipping from Mazda Motorsports too, ordered on Monday and had them by Friday.
@TeamRX8 Thanks again for sharing
I couldn’t remember where I see these posted before on here.
Also a nice detail on them.
Details on clearance, rubbing, fender modifications, suspension etc?
Need some guidance on tire sizing so as to not rub my fender liners. I used the TireRacks tool to put the following on my FD years ago:
Front: Enkei RPF1 18x8 +35mm with Michelin Pilot 4s 235/40/18
Rear: Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +45mm with Michelin Pilot 4s 265/35/18
When I set up the car for the track days per @Howard Coleman tire/suspension setup thread, I had to set my ride height to 26" as 25" was definitely going to rub. Over the years, I've rubbed through fender liners, especially after track days. I'm tired of replacing Fender liners, so I'm trying to figure out what the right size tire is that keeps an 18" rim size, keeps my ride height, but does not eat liners.
Attached are some photos and yes, I know I need the triangle pieces under my bumper to keep the fender from flopping around. Even with those pieces, when turning the wheel, my current tires rub. I have a replacement set but I won't wanna put those on until I know my fenders are safe from harm.
I don't understand offsets or tire sizing to know what fits. I think the TireRack calculator assumed OEM suspension when giving me sizes vs my Ohlins setup because I doubt they would recommend anything that would rub. It's only an issue up front so I assume I could keep my rears as is even if change the front? Any help would be much appreciated.
Need some guidance on tire sizing so as to not rub my fender liners. I used the TireRacks tool to put the following on my FD years ago:
Front: Enkei RPF1 18x8 +35mm with Michelin Pilot 4s 235/40/18
Rear: Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +45mm with Michelin Pilot 4s 265/35/18
When I set up the car for the track days per @Howard Coleman tire/suspension setup thread, I had to set my ride height to 26" as 25" was definitely going to rub. Over the years, I've rubbed through fender liners, especially after track days. I'm tired of replacing Fender liners, so I'm trying to figure out what the right size tire is that keeps an 18" rim size, keeps my ride height, but does not eat liners.
Attached are some photos and yes, I know I need the triangle pieces under my bumper to keep the fender from flopping around. Even with those pieces, when turning the wheel, my current tires rub. I have a replacement set but I won't wanna put those on until I know my fenders are safe from harm.
I don't understand offsets or tire sizing to know what fits. I think the TireRack calculator assumed OEM suspension when giving me sizes vs my Ohlins setup because I doubt they would recommend anything that would rub. It's only an issue up front so I assume I could keep my rears as is even if change the front? Any help would be much appreciated.
Use zip ties to pull your liner away from the tire. I had to do this to keep mine from rubbing.
If it’s rubbing up top, you need stiffer springs for your ride height.
Lots of room on the back side of the fender arch for the fron tire.
Seems like you are trying to run no caster.
I would run 5-6 degrees caster at least.
Does the unibody meet its marks in the frame machine?
I've never had it in a frame machine so I have no clue on that. Suspension setup is not my game so I was just running the settings from Howards thread which are:
"Toe in front between a 1/16 and 1/8th inch Toe in rear zero Camber front and rear 1.2 degrees negative Caster equal minimal Zero rear thrust angle."
Does changing caster per your recommendations change @Howard Coleman numbers?
Yeah, as you quoted he recommended minimal caster for some reason.
In my opinion, its a performance car- might as well put a performance alignment on it.
His suspension settings were pretty money for track days so I guess I gotta ping @Howard Coleman to see if changing caster will affect handling adversely from his suggestions.
Mazda Motorsports ZE40
specs, anyway
