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Anybody have experience with the Titan 7 wheels? i am looking to purchase a set 17x9.5 +51mm or the wedsport Tc105X 17x9 +49mm. My car is lowered with coil overs the height is about the same as stock. I am just wondering if i still need to roll my fenders ( which i prefer not to do) i am trying to pick up a set of wheels/tire combo that doesn't require to do. I am planning to run 255 +40 17 all around. with + 2 camber in the front and 1 ish in the back Please, any input would be great! thanks
I’ve autoxed my mildly lowered FD on 17x9 +45mm Enkei rpf1 wheels on 255/40/17 Bridgestone re-71r tires with un-rolled fenders without any rubbing issues. My camber has been as mild as -1.7 degrees in the front and -1.3 in the rear. It really depends on how low and stiffly sprung your car is if you’ll have front fender rubbing issues with either wheel size you’re looking at.
quick advice
i have 17x9 + 38 in the rear with 255/40 17
im mounting a 17x9 +45 in the front
is 245/40 17 a good tire to mount and able to have a slightly even profile ( with the front tires over all diameter just a tad smaller ) and still functional with out rolling fender lips
Same inquiry I went through ending in post #536 above.
So how did the 255/35ZR18 PSS work out? Do they rub your stock fenders or did you have to roll? I am looking at a good package deal on 18x9.5 rims with these tires but it’s only a good deal if they fit properly. My car is stock with no coil overs. Any heads up is appreciated.
Check the offset.....very important for a non-rub fit. I did front wheel 18x8 +40(offset), 255x35x18 tire ....back wheel 18x9.5 +40, 275x35x18 tire. The car is on Eibach springs dropped 1 inch. I rolled the front fenders, the back fenders are stock, with 275x35x18 tires, it's never rubbed. I tried the rear 9.5 wheels on the front to see if they'd fit...with the 275x35x18 tires they looked like they would clear, a 255 tire will have more stretch...but I'd still roll the front....turning in a driveway may catch a fender...a big mess! Rolling is easy and cheaper than a new fender! Hope that helps.
So how did the 255/35ZR18 PSS work out? Do they rub your stock fenders or did you have to roll? I am looking at a good package deal on 18x9.5 rims with these tires but it’s only a good deal if they fit properly. My car is stock with no coil overs. Any heads up is appreciated.
I'm sorry, I wish I could be of help. I started a big home renovation project right after I got the tires mounted, which includes replacing my garage. The wheels have just been shuffled around from place to place because my car is stored at my parents' until I have the time and space to get wrenching again.
^^Bummer for me^^ The tires you got were the set up I am looking at - 255/35/18 with a rim size of 18x9.5 +45, sure was hoping to hear these fit with no rubbing and no rolling.... Thanks for the reply though!
^^Bummer for me^^ The tires you got were the set up I am looking at - 255/35/18 with a rim size of 18x9.5 +45, sure was hoping to hear these fit with no rubbing and no rolling.... Thanks for the reply though!
You guys can run some negative camber up front to help keep the tires from catching on the fender lip.
Stock front negative camber spec is 0 and you won't get much inside tire wear in normal driving up to -1.5 deg which would provide about 9mm extra space to the fender lip.
That -1.5 deg camber would probably work for the +45 offset wheel. Would be safer with -2 deg.
The +40 offset and 255 wide tire will need the camber maxed to -2.5 deg front to clear the fender lip. That is fine for racing, but for regular driving it would wear the inside tire fairly quickly.
You guys can run some negative camber up front to help keep the tires from catching on the fender lip.
Stock front negative camber spec is 0 and you won't get much inside tire wear in normal driving up to -1.5 deg which would provide about 9mm extra space to the fender lip.
That -1.5 deg camber would probably work for the +45 offset wheel. Would be safer with -2 deg.
The +40 offset and 255 wide tire will need the camber maxed to -2.5 deg front to clear the fender lip. That is fine for racing, but for regular driving it would wear the inside tire fairly quickly.
Thanks Blue TII, I'm going to go for it and see what happens. Between your post and a few others that have chimed in I think I should be ok. Worst thing that could happen also is I may be forced to upgrade some coil overs, bummer for me right? Damn money pit. All for a good deal on tires and wheels... (I just happen to like)
^^Bummer for me^^ The tires you got were the set up I am looking at - 255/35/18 with a rim size of 18x9.5 +45, sure was hoping to hear these fit with no rubbing and no rolling.... Thanks for the reply though!
This the exact spec for wheels I just bought for my FD. From what I’ve been researching, with a lot of negative camber (-2.0 as stated by BLUETII) they should work. I actually made an appointment with a local guy to get my fronts rolled anyway. I plan on running around -1.5 camber front and I want a 0% chance of catching the lip as I will be tracking the car. A rolled fender is cheaper than a jacked up one that you should have rolled . There is a build thread in the 3rd gen section of a silver FD with Advans in this spec. His front fenders were caught on both sides in pics I were looking at. Not sure what his camber was, but the fitment itself looks really good as well. Maybe GoodfellaFD3S can chime in as well since I know he ran RPF1’s with that fitment in front. According to some math, 18x9.5 +45 is actually slightly more conservative than the gold standard fitment of 18x10+50, though that is usually ran with a slightly shorter tire of 285/30r18.
According to some math, 18x9.5 +45 is actually slightly more conservative than the gold standard fitment of 18x10+50, though that is usually ran with a slightly shorter tire of 285/30r18
I definitely agree that rolling fenders preemptively is the way to go unless your FD is a museum piece.
Problem is, the shops/friends/people that are most willing to roll fenders are usually the ones you want to avoid. You gotta find that one friend with nice even rolled fenders on stock paint and have him help you do it.
The 18x10 +50 classic fitment would still be 5mm more "conservative" for tire fitment to the fender than 18x9.5 +45.
It is only the offset that matters for where the tire is positioned in the fender well.
Granted, if you are stretching a 225/40-18 on the 18x10 +50 it would be hard to still call that conservative fitment; however I mean more conservative as far as tire outer sidewall to fender lip interference.
The guy I booked for fender rolling has been rolling fenders in the Phoenix area for like five years. So I sure hope he knows what he’s doing! I guess what I mean by more conservative also included the slight stretch involved with a 255 on a 9.5” wide wheel vs the no stretch of a 285 on a 10” wheel. For sure though, I’m glad I decided to do a roll. I plan to get a paint job in the coming years, so even if the old paint does crack a little bit, I’ll hit it with some clear and worry about it in a few years. We’re in very good condition, but far from museum piece.
I definitely agree that rolling fenders preemptively is the way to go unless your FD is a museum piece.
Problem is, the shops/friends/people that are most willing to roll fenders are usually the ones you want to avoid. You gotta find that one friend with nice even rolled fenders on stock paint and have him help you do it.
The 18x10 +50 classic fitment would still be 5mm more "conservative" for tire fitment to the fender than 18x9.5 +45.
It is only the offset that matters for where the tire is positioned in the fender well.
Granted, if you are stretching a 225/40-18 on the 18x10 +50 it would be hard to still call that conservative fitment; however I mean more conservative as far as tire outer sidewall to fender lip interference.
Here is my museum piece with 18x9.5 +45 255/35 Pilots square set up on it. It seems to fit fine with no rubbing although it is close on the inner fender well when turned all the way.
We've done your fitment many times and the only thing I would do for my clients is bend back the front fender liner mounting tab. That's all I've had to do for a 9.5 +45 with 255/35. I think you'll be just fine.
Originally Posted by fd3sY8S
I am at stock alignment which I believe is 0 camber. Others can chime in but I think that’s what it should be. Good luck with yours.
We've done your fitment many times and the only thing I would do for my clients is bend back the front fender liner mounting tab. That's all I've had to do for a 9.5 +45 with 255/35. I think you'll be just fine.
What alignment specs for the front were you doing this with? Mine will be at a 25” ride height and tracked. I have an appointment to get my fronts rolled Saturday. I’ve seen enough pics with people who have jacked up fenders with this same fitment too :/
Ok so most of the "jacked up fenders" in my experience are more driver error than anything. This is mostly in reference to approach angles and strategies for going up steep driveways. I see a lot of guys going at an angle and then turning the wheel while one is on the driveway and the other is not. Then suspension compresses on one side and the tire catches the fender as they turn the steering wheel. I don't recall the alignment specs but nothing out of the ordinary. Usually customers would reference the Petit specs and ask me to align accordingly. We also ran similar height on the car. Under corner loads at the tracks and hitting burms are an area I can't comment on.
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
What alignment specs for the front were you doing this with? Mine will be at a 25” ride height and tracked. I have an appointment to get my fronts rolled Saturday. I’ve seen enough pics with people who have jacked up fenders with this same fitment too :/
Well, yeah, fender lips get pulled when you turn into like a parking lot or something, and there's a transition there which compresses the suspension while the tire is rotating turned... which is basically like every parking lot, gas station, culdesac, etc. in America, so unless you can give yourself a slow, wheels-straight approach, which is either difficult or annoying to other drivers or both, you're going to jack your lips up. Not exactly diver error.
Well, yeah, fender lips get pulled when you turn into like a parking lot or something, and there's a transition there which compresses the suspension while the tire is rotating turned... which is basically like every parking lot, gas station, culdesac, etc. in America, so unless you can give yourself a slow, wheels-straight approach, which is either difficult or annoying to other drivers or both, you're going to jack your lips up. Not exactly diver error.
^^^^THis!
Very much this
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
What alignment specs for the front were you doing this with? Mine will be at a 25” ride height and tracked. I have an appointment to get my fronts rolled Saturday. I’ve seen enough pics with people who have jacked up fenders with this same fitment too :/
matt
I know howard espoused the 25" ride height regularly but that is just too low IME on the various suspension setups that I've run. The shocks need some room to do their job and 25" won't cut it on some/many setups (mine included). I'm somewhere between ~25 1/4 - 1/2" and that works well for my overall setup.
You kinda need to get under the car and cycle the suspension and wheel and measure/observe how much shock travel you have, when you are hitting the bump stops etc to figure out your minimum ride height.
YMMV.
If you set FD up with Ohlins at Ohlins recommended height and then corner weigh it my experience is the car is 25.25" to 25.5" floor to highest point in fender arch with no rake (Ohlins raises rear spring rate ratio to tame FD natural understeer instead of running rear high with rake).
So while my FD is getting resprayed I got my dream wheels but I am afraid maybe the fronts are too agressive?
They are 18x9.5 ET31
Please give me an opinion if they will fit with my 235/40/18 semi slicks
When I got the car it had some XXRs that were 18x9.5 ET30 and with a 225/40/18 it fit okay only rubbed inner wheel well on full lock sometimes.
In the first photo you can see how much the lip pokes out of the fender with the car on jackstands.
Still on my 18x11 +45 Forgestar F14.
Tire now is Hoosier made Continental W-R Rolex GT rain race tire 305/650R18 which is 305/30-18 in DOT tire sizing.
They are 13" wide at the beads unmounted.
Hoosier lists them as 11.75" tread width and 12.6" overall width mounted on 18x12 wheel.
11-03-18, 11:36 PM
. There is a build thread in the 3rd gen section of a silver FD with Advans in this spec. His front fenders were caught on both sides in pics I were looking at. Not sure what his camber was, but the fitment itself looks really good as well. Maybe GoodfellaFD3S can chime in as well since I know he ran RPF1’s with that fitment in front. According to some math, 18x9.5 +45 is actually slightly more conservative than the gold standard fitment of 18x10+50, though that is usually ran with a slightly shorter tire of 285/30r18.
