Any one on here use this? How do you like it? Any info is appreciated

Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator Combo - Chase Bays

Chase Bays Brake Booster Eliminator - Honda | Nissan | Mazda | Mitsubishi | AE86 - Chase Bays

 

I do not agree about their comments relating to pedal ratio. Pedal ratio is simply the mechanical force multiplier based on how hard you can push the brake pedal. Sizing the master cylinders take in consideration the brake system as a WHOLE. The stock FD pedal ratio appears to be roughly 4:1 with the brake boost providing another 2:1 ratio. Read up on brake articles found on numerous sites, tilton, ap racing, stop tech, etc... and they all will show a good ratio is 6:1 total. A master cylinder size will not effect the pedal ratio.

Download the excel sheet to see how these systems work together. https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...-info-1094941/


One of the only reasons to go with manual brakes is to provide the ability to adjust front and rear bias. With highly modded cars shifting weight balance and an aftermarket big brake kit which may shift too much balance forward this is a requirement. Brakes are not something to mess around with so either go with a full pedal box or find one of these unicorns made for the FD:

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo.../#post10240851

 

"One of the only reasons to go with manual brakes is to provide the ability to adjust front and rear bias."

i completely agree w everything in post 2. during a typical 35 minute SCCA National race approx 65 pounds of fuel is burned off which changes the longitudinal weight balance. an in-cockpit e brake bias adjustment needs to be made 3/4 of the way into the race or rear brake lockup will occur.

this is not necessary on a time attack car or any car doing 15 minute on-track events.

i highly recommend spending time w the excel calculator to better understand brake dynamics.

the FD has a nice brake system for street usage but if driven seriously on a road course will run out of brakes in 2 laps regardless of brake pads... just not enough front and rear rotor mass.

i applaud Mazda for the FD. items like brakes and apex seals are perfectly suited for their intended purpose...

the apex seals are perfect for 255 hp and the brakes are fine for aggressive street driving and touring a road course.

turn up the boost in either area and it is time to change systems.

Howard

 

4 months ago I decided to stick with the stock booster when I made this thread. But now things changed and I need room in the engine bay. Looking for people with experience using this chase bays kit

 

Can't believe how few people have switched to manual brakes

 

we don't like to fix things that ain't broke, we have to much broken **** to fix already.

 

basically nobody has driven a car with manual brakes. the only car i've had that had manual brakes was a Tr3, from 1958.

if you give a manual braked car to a normal person it kind of scares the crap out of them.

 

Not to mention any aero race car with manual brakes will require a significant amount of time in the gym so your legs will be strong enough to apply that much pedal force over the course of a race.

 

I raced (drag) for years with the stock booster. Trust me if I didn't absolutely have to remove it, I wouldn't. But I figured cars that are more strictly race cars would have made the switch

 

you won't be fast if the driver gets tired halfway through a race.

 

Quite a few have gone dual master over here. That thing just looks like a bias adjuster for the rear and probably a 5/8" mc to get pedal effort under control. There is such a thing as a remote booster, if you were intent on going ahead.

 

Here is Rev 1 of my rig that I designed up a couple years ago. I have yet to get it mounted up on the FC yet, but I think it will end up working nicely when the time comes. There are definitely better ways to do it, but I wanted to try something new out and I like wasting my time away designing things. All AP Racing parts, machined 7075, hard anodized, mostly all titanium hardware.

 

i have run a similar setup for about 10 years... the primary reason for me was to be able to adjust brake bias. i do have the bias connected to the cockpit. the brakes work fine in everyday driving.

 

I bought the bolt on kit that chase bays offers. Aside from them being one of the worst companies ive ever dealt with, the car stops fine.

 

so....how's the pedal feel/effort? Did you happen to get rid of the common FD problem where the pedal feels better after the 2nd pump?

 

How much to make one for an FD?

 

About $1300 in parts and $1400 in machining. But quality wasn't compromised with **** parts and one-off machined parts cost as expected. I've got a newer design that I have yet to have machined, but it should work out way nicer I think - more efficient, cheaper, and compact.

 

I'll be doing this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-603
I'd say that if you want manual brakes, you have to go all-in. Do it right, and don't half-*** it with this Chase Bay's kit. My car is a track build, and street use will be extremely occasional. If you have a street FD, stick to the stock system.

 

Are you going to keep the stock brake pedal? I'm wondering how to gain some leverage to get back to around 6:1 leverage.

You have my attention about making one for the FD. I appreciate proper parts and look forward to seeing v2.

 

i had dual masters on my FB for a time. I modified the pedal to increase the ratio as best as I could. That said, the idea of dual masters is to have the aforementioned adjustable braking. The chase bay thing is really just a gimmick for people who want to take their engine bay back to the dawn of the automobile. What on Earth could require you to undoubtedly remove the booster due to space constraints? An engine swap with a wide V? terrible plumbing routing?