jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

So I found myself a co-op for the next 6 months so I actually am going to be able to afford to auto-x this season. I should have ~$1000 to spend on some suspension upgrades before the season starts. I run in SM2 but the car is well under prepped and I am not looking to win any nationals or anything, its just for fun since its only my 2nd full year. Might try to do a track day this summer too. Car is street driven but is not a DD.

First off, the suspension is currently stock except for a front strut bar and DTSS eliminators. I run 225 RT-615s but am looking to upgrade to 255 Toyos or something similar eventually.

Option 1: Konis or Bilsteins with GCs.
I really would go this option, but my front strut housings are badly cracked (I've been told its fairly common on FCs) to the point that I'm nervous about competing on them. I am concerned about finding replacements for these. I was gonna send them out to ISC to be modified for the Bilsteins, but I don't think that they'd be usable and that replacing them would be very expensive (AWR's are like $350 and I don't think I can afford the race inserts they are designed for anyway). However, I might be able to afford to do just the front suspension before the season starts and live with the wonky handling until I can afford the rears.

Option 2: Tein SS
I can't quite afford these before the season would start, but if they would be a better option it might be worth waiting for them. The Tein shock dyno's I've seen look pretty decent, and the SS is pretty competitively priced. I know Black91n/a (if you're reading feel free to chime in) has alot of good things to say about the Flex, but the SS is better priced and has higher rates stock with means I wouldn't have to re-valve.

I plan on doing rear camber links with both setups. I was also wondering about front A-arm bushings. Is that something I should consider too? Mine aren't in great shape. I've read alot about them in the race section but I'm not sure if thats something I need for a non-racecar.

Thanks for your help and advice!

Black91n/a

Remember this: STIFFER IS NOT BETTER. Just because they're stiffer doesn't mean they'll handle better, give you more grip or anything like that. If anything they may give less grip overall due to the tires skipping over bad pavement. My car is a reasonably heavy FC, weighing 2850lbs last time I weighed it, and I'm on a "soft" suspension with rates of "only" 7kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear and it's plenty stiff, with very little roll, even with 225 wide race tires. It is my honest oppinion that on a car that sees street use as well, this is as stiff as you'll ever need to go, stiffer won't give you any advantage and it'll only make it ride worse.

If you can't afford to have them re-valved, don't go for the Bilsteins, they'll be vastly underdamped for coilover type spring rates, as they're valved more for stock spring rates. They're great dampers, when valved properly for the springs being used. The ISC rear setup uses delrin bushings and this has lead to the shock mount breaking off of the shock on an FC in the past. There needs to be some compliance there. So for the sort of budget you're talking about, Konis are the way to go. You should seriously consider camber plates too. If you sum up the price of Konis, GC coilovers and camber plates, you're in the price range of Tein Flex and Stance coilovers.

You can probably find some better front strut housings on the used market. Mine weren't too bad and I couldn't give them away, I eventually threw them away before I moved last. Modify some new used ones if that's what you want to do.

The SS are inferior to the flex in three key areas. One, they don't have an adjustable shock body, so when you lower the car you will be eating up compression travel and you may end up being on the bumpstops more than is good. Second, they don't have camber plates, so you're stuck with whatever camber that ride height gives you more or less. They will have a bit of a ride quality advantage from using the stock upper mounts though, but honestly, I don't find the ride quality to be bad at all in my car. Stiff, yes, harsh or punishing, no. Third, IMHO they're overly stiff for street use. They're not a bad way to go, but I think it'd be better to save up a little more and get the Flex or the Super Drifts (they're really just Flex's with slightly stiffer rates). With the Flex if autocrossing is your priority then stick with the stock rates for a more tail happy ride, if track use is in the picture, then I'd reccomend upping the front rates to 7kg/mm to calm the rear end for the track.

You may also consider Stance, I've seen a shock dyno and it's not bad, and they've been around for a bit and I've not been hearing durability horror stories or anything, so they're probably pretty decent.

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the post, good advice as usual.

Interesting points on the SS, didn't consider that. Maybe I will just save up for the Flex if I can't find some strut mounts. I'm not too worried about street driving, I only would take it out occasionally other than driving to events. I have my Taurus for commuting.

That said, I still don't know which way to go. I guess I'll see what I can find used for strut mounts and go from there. I'm really concerned about the fronts, esp after sitting all winter. Even if I leave the stock shocks in there for the moment, I really want to replace them.

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

its really different strokes for different folks.. Guys who follow japanese tune influence on thier cars will give all hands down to coilovers.. then there is the crowd of guys who perfer the softer setup, and it works for them

No one can really tell you which one is better, just go try to drive someones car who has them and see if you like them.

Im all for coilovers by the way.. once ive tried them on my s13 a few years back, its the only type of aftermarket suspension i look forward to on my cars.

The feeling and response is nice.

If your driving on a smooth track, then they are great.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

It depends on what natural frequency is best for the surfaces you run. After you figure that out, then figure out your spring rate. after you figure out your spring rate, then valve the shocks accordingly. Use sway bars to fine tune the handling, and you're all set.

US tracks are bumpier, so spring rates are rather soft, compared to Japanese tracks, which are smooth like glass.