Interesting results .. at least to me! Please add your thoughts..
#26
Rotary Freak
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Originally posted by DamonB
The large bushing inside the front of the trailing arm. Stock it's a very large rubber bushing with lots of deflection. This is where the majority of the power is fed into the chassis and the biggest contributor to wheelhop along with the diff bushings. There is a Mazdaspeed version that is 40% stiffer available from Mazda Motorsports that fits the stock arms. Then there is the nylon jimlab version for the stock arms and finally aftermarket trailing arms that replace this bushing completely with a solid rod end.
The large bushing inside the front of the trailing arm. Stock it's a very large rubber bushing with lots of deflection. This is where the majority of the power is fed into the chassis and the biggest contributor to wheelhop along with the diff bushings. There is a Mazdaspeed version that is 40% stiffer available from Mazda Motorsports that fits the stock arms. Then there is the nylon jimlab version for the stock arms and finally aftermarket trailing arms that replace this bushing completely with a solid rod end.
Damon - which do you prefer for aggressive street driving/fun - Jim's hard bushing or an aftermarket trailing arms?
Howard - are those tire pressure recommendations consistent across tire brands?
Thanks again.
#27
Yellow Dragon is no more
Thread Starter
I'll probably be checking everything out this weekend and replacing the toe link at that time. The car does feel much better at speed with the lower tire pressure. One added description ..... a tire in the rear feals out of balance at high speed. Could this be the toe link bouncing back and forth? I have new tires on there and they didn't mention the wheels being out of round ... which they normally do.
#28
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
if you have a sloppy toe link your tire will not be rolling in a constant relationship to the car and will vibrate. you can wreck a tire in 500 miles with either an incorrect toe setting or sloppy toe link.
it may take you some time to get used to 30/27 tire pressure as the car will be quite different than 36... hang in there as the car will stick much better and have a softer compliance w the road. win win.
howard coleman
it may take you some time to get used to 30/27 tire pressure as the car will be quite different than 36... hang in there as the car will stick much better and have a softer compliance w the road. win win.
howard coleman
#29
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by alberto_mg
Damon - which do you prefer for aggressive street driving/fun - Jim's hard bushing or an aftermarket trailing arms?
Damon - which do you prefer for aggressive street driving/fun - Jim's hard bushing or an aftermarket trailing arms?
#33
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
there's no diff between Jim's bushings and spherical rod ends. both are fairly solid versus the mounds of rubber in the stock mazda bushing.
replacing the front bushing on the lower longitudinal link has virtually no downside in that it does not carry the weight of the car so NVH isn't effected.
OTOH, you get a major performance benefit as most of the engine and brake torque channels into the car thru that bushing. you will notice an immediate performance improvement.
i like the Jim/nylon bushing rather than the spherical rod end as the exquisite aluminum link is retained.
i have forgotten what the aftermarket charges for the spherical rod end and tubular link but i just put my nylon front bushings in my car and paid around $50 for the bushings. they were even pressed into my link.
howard coleman
replacing the front bushing on the lower longitudinal link has virtually no downside in that it does not carry the weight of the car so NVH isn't effected.
OTOH, you get a major performance benefit as most of the engine and brake torque channels into the car thru that bushing. you will notice an immediate performance improvement.
i like the Jim/nylon bushing rather than the spherical rod end as the exquisite aluminum link is retained.
i have forgotten what the aftermarket charges for the spherical rod end and tubular link but i just put my nylon front bushings in my car and paid around $50 for the bushings. they were even pressed into my link.
howard coleman
#34
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by howard coleman
i like the Jim/nylon bushing rather than the spherical rod end as the exquisite aluminum link is retained.
i like the Jim/nylon bushing rather than the spherical rod end as the exquisite aluminum link is retained.
...I will have to disagree on the braking loads though. The majority of that is fed into the chassis through the front lower a-arms because as you know the front brakes do far more work than the rears.
#36
FD = Mr. Toad's Wild Ride
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Originally posted by alberto_mg
interesting...
so where can we get that nylon bushing or was it one of Jim's?
i think rotary extreme's are ~$225 for the set.
interesting...
so where can we get that nylon bushing or was it one of Jim's?
i think rotary extreme's are ~$225 for the set.
#37
FD = Mr. Toad's Wild Ride
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Originally posted by DamonB
FWIW my Geez! chassis software says I consistently pull 1.2+ g in near every corner with the car on 245/45/16 Victoracers.
FWIW my Geez! chassis software says I consistently pull 1.2+ g in near every corner with the car on 245/45/16 Victoracers.
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