Howmuch Suspension travel is ideal on FD
08-12-14, 11:02 PM
#1
Howmuch Suspension travel is ideal on FD
In my quest to get the most traction out of the FD . I've come to this junction ,
I've got my car setup to be neutral handling
Now my question is howmuch suspension travel is ideal???
if I soften the rear end a bit , I get better traction out of corners , BUT ocasionally I get some bump stop action .
or I can stiffen the rear end a bit , stiffen the front a bit as well to maintain the balance of the car .
, BUT my question is with out suspension design double wishy bones , and multi link rear , with increasing camber as suspension travels .
is the ideal suspension travel JUSt before bumpstop as taht will achieve the most camber while in a turn .
Or should I try to eliminate some of the current travel .
I've got my car setup to be neutral handling
Now my question is howmuch suspension travel is ideal???
if I soften the rear end a bit , I get better traction out of corners , BUT ocasionally I get some bump stop action .
or I can stiffen the rear end a bit , stiffen the front a bit as well to maintain the balance of the car .
, BUT my question is with out suspension design double wishy bones , and multi link rear , with increasing camber as suspension travels .
is the ideal suspension travel JUSt before bumpstop as taht will achieve the most camber while in a turn .
Or should I try to eliminate some of the current travel .
08-15-14, 08:06 AM
#2
Well incase anyone is interested seems that the answer is 2" of travel .
if you want to know how to check it , do the tie wrap trick , wrap a tie wrap around the shock tube , when the suspension travels during some performance driving the tie wrap will move up and mark where the highest point is .
if you want to know how to check it , do the tie wrap trick , wrap a tie wrap around the shock tube , when the suspension travels during some performance driving the tie wrap will move up and mark where the highest point is .
08-15-14, 04:41 PM
#3
tard of teh century
Body roll takes away camber and suspension travel/steering angle adds it. Your tires are looking for a specific amount of camber and you have the choice of how to get there.
In the rear you only have body roll and suspension camber gain that battle each other. The more camber you can gain the advantage you'll have that you can run less camber at static ride height and it'll save your tires a bit. However, if you have a lot of camber gain designed in your suspension and very soft springs you'll end up past where you want to be when you try to put power down when not cornering (no body roll).
In the front you have caster that will gain you camber based off steering angle. You'll see some cars that don't gain much camber through suspension travel try to run as much caster as possible to help make up for it. You'll definitely be running a lot more camber at tight corners with lots of steering input than you will on high speed. Same with front heavy cars where you will find yourself using a lot more steering angle.
Also you will see different trends with different types of tires, so your sticky tire might want more or less camber on top of the fact that you'll have increased body roll and suspension travel from increased g loading. The increased suspension travel will also take longer for your car to set and will be very noticeable in cases like a slalom.
If you want to know where your car should be camber wise, then adjust it through your alignment and then when you know where you want to be you can go from there. Just make sure you always pay attention to your tire temps.
In the rear you only have body roll and suspension camber gain that battle each other. The more camber you can gain the advantage you'll have that you can run less camber at static ride height and it'll save your tires a bit. However, if you have a lot of camber gain designed in your suspension and very soft springs you'll end up past where you want to be when you try to put power down when not cornering (no body roll).
In the front you have caster that will gain you camber based off steering angle. You'll see some cars that don't gain much camber through suspension travel try to run as much caster as possible to help make up for it. You'll definitely be running a lot more camber at tight corners with lots of steering input than you will on high speed. Same with front heavy cars where you will find yourself using a lot more steering angle.
Also you will see different trends with different types of tires, so your sticky tire might want more or less camber on top of the fact that you'll have increased body roll and suspension travel from increased g loading. The increased suspension travel will also take longer for your car to set and will be very noticeable in cases like a slalom.
If you want to know where your car should be camber wise, then adjust it through your alignment and then when you know where you want to be you can go from there. Just make sure you always pay attention to your tire temps.
08-17-14, 05:47 PM
#4
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our home track is thunderhill, and there is a hill. basically the uphill happens from turn in to before the apex to the exit is down, so you basically "land" at the out.
we've tried a ton of different setups, and when the car is higher it lands better (duh), and as such isn't disturbed, and is faster through that turn.
the interesting thing is that, we can be faster in turn 5, but it doesn't really translate into a faster lap time.
so if you hit the bumpstops here and there, it isn't necessarily going to be a lap time killer. although it could if it was an important corner
we've tried a ton of different setups, and when the car is higher it lands better (duh), and as such isn't disturbed, and is faster through that turn.
the interesting thing is that, we can be faster in turn 5, but it doesn't really translate into a faster lap time.
so if you hit the bumpstops here and there, it isn't necessarily going to be a lap time killer. although it could if it was an important corner
08-22-14, 08:41 AM
#5
Senior Member
You lose camber relative to the ground with body roll, more than you gain with "camber gain" in the double-wishbones. And you wouldn't want a setup that gave enough camber gain to compensate for body roll, that would give you way too much camber up front under braking (when you'd prefer the fronts to be more square to the ground) and in the back under acceleration (ditto). Also, excessive camber gain would add to the natural understeer you get on the throttle, and add to the natural oversteer you get off the throttle.
Typical double-wishbones give approximately 1 degree camber gain per inch of travel. Body roll at 1" compression on the outside wheels, 1" droop on inside results in ~1 3/4 degrees of body roll. So you've lost 3/4 degree of camber relative to the ground, despite "camber gain".
Long/short: MORE body roll gives LESS camber at the outside tires relative to the ground.
Typical double-wishbones give approximately 1 degree camber gain per inch of travel. Body roll at 1" compression on the outside wheels, 1" droop on inside results in ~1 3/4 degrees of body roll. So you've lost 3/4 degree of camber relative to the ground, despite "camber gain".
Long/short: MORE body roll gives LESS camber at the outside tires relative to the ground.
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