5525.140 is the correct PN for the Eibach Pro Kit... that's all i actually know. i have been told they are no longer being made but i don't know that first hand.

if you learn otherwise let us know.

howard

 

my japanese mazdaspeed catalog lists the specs for the springs. the box looks the same except for the "tuned by mazdaspeed" i ASSUME its the same as the prokit sold here

the free length is F 248mm R 262mm

the rate is 6.9kg/mm F and 5.1 kg.mm R

they list a 25mm drop

 

Howard, thank you for confirming the part number 5525.140

I have ordered them from Advanceautoparts.com and they have been shipped. If anybody else is interested you can do a search for a 20% off coupon, the code I used at checkout was "P20"

Total was $227 and shipping was free, tax free.

I found a few other websites that sell them, I found them by searching for "Eibach 5525.140" at yahoo under the shopping tab.

 

Hello howard,

Maybe you can help me to decide which suspension i should choose...

I'm driving a (currently) stock FD3S 1991 japanese import. I want to max otu the twins over the winter and running 235 Federal 595RSR in the front and 265 595RSR in the back on 17x9 gramlight 57d's

The car will mainly be used for very spirited street driving (not to say touge, but I'm from austria, therefore we have very windy and fun roads at our alps ) and some trackdays (so no daily-driving, comfort is not needed)

I want to buy a Tein Mono Flex but I'm unsure about the spring rates... As I'm from Austria/Europe and no trustable TEIN dealer in my country, I have to order from US or JP, therefore i have the choice between the 14kg/12kg spring rates from the US and the 10kg/10kg spring rates from Japan.

I think I already know the answer, 14kg/12kg will be to stiff for a stock-bodied, stock-twined, no-massive aero fd3s, right?

Did you've every dynoed the mono flex coilovers? So maybe you can tell me if it's possible to swap in some 8kg springs if this setup is to hard for my needs?
If not, I ahve the ability to do a dyno-plotout in my company, but I can't really interpred them

 

Hi Howard

Thanks for your information on Suspension in general. I thinks its great you share this information, most competitors with that knowledge keep it to them selfs or even miss guide you.

I would appreciate your advise on spring ratres for the FD I will be racing in 2012.

The car is a full circuit car, with weld in cage from tower to tower, we have been racing in a category the requires a small R compound tyre (225/50/16 Bridgestone RE55)

The spring rates are currently F 550 and R 400, this has been great, we have won many races and championships with this spring combination. Car weighs 1150kg including my fat **** and has a genuine 480rwhp 13B Bridgeport with T04 turbo.

For 2012 we are going to race in Sports Sedans, which in Australia is pretty much open to do what ever you like including full slick tyres, we are using Dunlop full slick 265/625/17 Front and rear. Most cars in Sports Sedans are ex V8 Supercars and Porsche GT4 Cup Cars.

With the slicks we will need to increase the spring rates substantually, after testing the car with the slicks on 550 and 400 it was piching and rolling like a boat. I think we will be looking at 900+ for the front and 500 for the Rear. This spring rate is based on the Leverage and Movement ratio and the spring rate Dunlop have recommended at the front wheel, which is 400 pounds.

I think its important to find out what the tyre manufacturer recommends the spring rate should be at the wheel, then calcuating backwards to workout the effective spring rate (at the shock)

This is a pretty good calculator stockcarproducts.com/pstech9.htm
The quick measurment I did was
Front Lower control (inner pivot to middle of ball joint) 310mm
Front Lower control (inner pivot point to coilover mount) 200mm


Interested in your thoughts?
Thanks
Ashly

 

good info.

any relation to a Dave Coleman?

 

Howard, did you ever run/get times at BFR?

I read pages 1-14, and skimmed the rest. (gotta get something done at work eventually!)

Just curious to see what kind of times you were putting down if you did end up going. I started racing there this year in my 240sx, and didn't see an FD there all season. Planning on running my FD there either at the end of this season, or in 2014.

Thanks,
Ben

ps- thank-you for all the useful info!

 

I want to buy a Tein Mono Flex but I'm unsure about the spring rates... As I'm from Austria/Europe and no trustable TEIN dealer in my country, I have to order from US or JP, therefore i have the choice between the 14kg/12kg spring rates from the US and the 10kg/10kg spring rates from Japan.

"I think I already know the answer, 14kg/12kg will be to stiff for a stock-bodied, stock-twined, no-massive aero fd3s, right?

Did you've every dynoed the mono flex coilovers? So maybe you can tell me if it's possible to swap in some 8kg springs if this setup is to hard for my needs?
If not, I ahve the ability to do a dyno-plotout in my company, but I can't really interpred them"

i suggest 10/8 for your app. i have dyno'd the Tein shock and it has massive range of adjustment so the rate change will be no problem. good luck and DO get the right springs.




Ashly,

"calculating backwards to workout the effective spring rate (at the shock)"

yes, that's the way to do it and it isn't very difficult to solve for wheel rate from spring rate... tire adhesion does have a significant role to play in getting spring rate/roll rate correct. once you have made the switch you want to do the tie wrap deal to measure stroke looking for 1.5 inches of travel at the wheel. good luck.


"any relation to a Dave Coleman?" nope.

"did you ever run/get times at BFR?" nope, but it isn't long til the snow melts bring brakes for Blackhawk

howard

 

Big thing to factor in on rates is tire choice. Howard's rec's are (I believe) based on running high performance street tires, and for that app they are spot on. Once you go to R's, or large good R's like 285 Hoosiers, you'll likely need more spring. I'm settling in at 700/600 (12/10) on the JRZ's for a TT car with minimal aero (99 wing) running on 285 Hoosiers. As I pick up time and add aero, I may ultimately go up to 800/700 (14/12) or more.

 

My FD is running 700/550 springs on 285/30/18 Hooiser A6 for autox.

It could use more spring, just not sure if the Koni Yellows will handle much more spring.

 

fyi Might want to check in w/ SHPNOUT. He is running a Koni + Ground Control setup on his ex-Pettit ITE FD with big spring rate and big Hoosiers.

 

Hi Howard,

Thanks for the great thread and the knowledge shared. I have a question about the lower longitudinal link mentioned for bush replacement. Is it also referred to as the rear trailing arm like #3 in this picture?
Thank you.
Karl.

 

Karl.

thanks for the kind comments... yes, it is #3.

hc

 

Hey Howard (or anyone),
I've been trying to find those Eibachs anywhere and noone seems to have them anymore... do we have a good line on either where to get them or alternate springs?

 

Check my post #778

I just bought and installed some brand new eibachs a few months ago. The spring numbers match the model numbers of the eibach "pro-kit"

You should still be able to find them new.

 

Thanks for the reply Adam, checked on advanced autoparts, it won't let me order them. Says 0 available :\

 

Wow, maybe I got the last set ever? I would check with Eibach to be certain.

 

They have been discontinued per eibach.com i will be selling my pro kit here soon when i grab silk road cook overs. See keep your eyes on the parts classifieds. ;-)

 

Hi Everyone,

I am getting a set of KONI yellows with H&R Sport springs(black in color) for my 94 FD touring and wonder is there is a recommended set up for street performance. Howard, I know you are an expert on track set up but could you give me some insight?

The car will be used for mainly street/high way driving with periodical "spirited" driving down mountain roads. I am looking for something to tell the shop to tune the shocks and springs to such as spring rate and toe in and camber as such. All the rest of the suspension will be stock expect for maybe Megan Racing Toe links that go with the KONI and H&R

Thanks a lot
David

 

Hi Howard,

I am having trouble finding the "2nd set of bushings on top of differential" that you mentioned needing replacement to improve handling. Where is it in this picture Karl attached? thanks a lot

 

For those wishing they could find the Eibach pro kit... i found a decent alternative:

Tein S Tech part number:SKM50-AUB00

Fits: MAZDA RX-7 93-96 FD3S
Ride Height Front/Rear: -1.4/-1.3 inch
Spring Rate Front/Rear: 436/324 lbs/in (metric: 7.8K / 5.8K)

From all my research, I can't find a closer spring.

 

I was looking into finding an alternative also and these were the two i found that was even closer to the Eibachs

Eibachs
Ride Height Front/Rear: -1/-1 inch (from the description on a few websites)
Spring Rate Front/Rear: 350/255 lbs/in (from Howard's first post)
Linear (from Howard's replies in other thread)

Swift Sport Springs
Ride Height Front/Rear: -1/-0.8 inch
Spring Rate Front/Rear: 302/224 lbs/in (metric: 5.4K / 4K)
Linear (cant confirm but from their website it compares their spring rates to competitors and how the swifts hold the same spring rate over a large compression range)

RS*R Down Springs or Ti2000
Ride Height Front/Rear: -0.8/-0.6 inch
Spring Rate Front/Rear: 348/260 lbs/in (metric: 6.24K / 4.67K)
Linear (cant confirm either but i have these and they have evenly spaced coils and same coil thickness)

Going by these numbers, the RS*R is near identical to the Eibach spring rates but not the same ride height, and the Swift's are close to the ride height but a little softer.

If Eibachs have the most ideal ride height and rate for just a spring change, and these two can only match one criteria and get close to the other, what's more important for handling? Getting the ride height or getting the rate?

 

"having trouble finding the "2nd set of bushings on top of differential"

they are not prominent in the picture but are simple to find. there is a lateral brace on top of the diff case that attaches w two bolts. it has two large rubber bushings at its outer edges.

"what's more important for handling? Getting the ride height or getting the rate?"

great question and of course partially it is a matter of degree... how far off optimum you are.

stock springs are

263/195

rear is 42% of total

Eibach is 350/255

rear is 42%

Swift is 42%

Tein S Tech 42%

RS*RacingBeat is 42% hmmmm, are you getting the message? the car trims out at 42%

average rate:

OE 229

Eibach 302

Swift 263

RS*R 304

Tein 380

i wouldn't worry about the ride height... worry about tire pressure 30/27 set cold and alignment.

then have fun


HC

 

Thought I would post a final follow up to my experiences with the FD suspension. I have followed Howards reccomendations pretty closely and only varied where I felt it would help my personnel set up. Thanks Howard!
Here is where I ended up:

Pettit Trak Pro stage 2. 14 clicks from full hard front 18 clicks from full hard rear
Ride height at 26 front 26.25 rear with 255/35/18 front and 275/35/18 rear tires
RX7 Store hollow front bar and stock '93 rear bar(Pettit reccomended)
ST bushing in the lower rear parallel bar front mount(best $25 ever spent)
Hankook rs3 tires
Stoptech front brake kit with PFC01 pads
All other suspension components are 71K mile factory stock as is the motor

Alignment as follows:
Zero toe front with 1.7 negative camber
1/16 toe in rear with negative 1.2 camber(this was the key for my car as the previous shop had it toe'd out)

If anyone can find a car that handles better for less than 6 figures buy it now. Several Porsche 911 owners couldn't get out of the way fast enough in the advanced run group last weekend.

If anyone has any doubts to the validity of my claims, theres always one, send Pluto (Steve Kan) a pm and ask him. He was in the car with me. :-)

BTW, drove it to and from the track with the AC blowing cold the whole way.

Man I love this car!

David

 

Hi Howard, current set up is factory bilsteins with RSR springs and racing beat FR sway bars. as this is a softer set up than with my tein SS, should go back to factory swaybars? if so, both or just the rear?
Thanks!