collectiv

iTrader: (1)

I thought my control arm bushings were going considering my lack of experience. There wasn't any slop in them when i removed them so i figured they were good. What i did notice is that the right side once the spindle was removed the control arm would drop. The other side didn't, it would stay still in a position where normal suspension travel would be.

You think i could get away with these bushings for another while longer? I noticed if i take that same right control arm and move it up and out of the normal suspension travel it would stay put.

Thanks again for anyone who would like to respond.

Eddie

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yes, they are fine.

What can really kill them fast is if you loosen the bolts to them and then tighten them up with the wheel at full droop. Like when putting on coil-overs.

For those guys you want to tighten the bolts with the weight of the car on the suspension to keep them from tearing. I let the lower arm rest on something the same height as it would be with the wheel on so I can still get to the bolts easily.

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

So you figure it will be good hey. What would be a good indicator that there worn. I never experienced troubleshooting bushing play. They don't feel sloppy, just the lack of stiffness when pivoting.

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

Also, i guess i dont know how they are designed. does the inner portion that being rubber completely seperate of the outer rubber or is it like a diaphram that would rip if it stretched too much?

Upon until today i actually thought the bushing pivoted on the bolt that goes through it, lol.

Eddie

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

What i did notice is that the right side once the spindle was removed the control arm would drop. The other side didn't, it would stay still in a position where normal suspension travel would be.

Ooops. I read over that too fast the first time.
You are correct on the Right side where the arm just dropped before loosening the through-bolt those bushings could be on their way out.

Really, you know they are back when if you grab the tire you can rock the bushings side to side on the upper arm- but I would take the looseness as a sign of them going out as you did.

That steel core is supposed to rotate in the thin steel shell, but there should be resistance.

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

and we cant see that core cause of the rubber correct,

i will order up 2 of them to be sure,

thanks for your input, very much appreciated.

Eddie

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

Another question guys, im not sure if i put too much grease in my ball joint boots or not but im getting air locked. I had to use a small screwdriver and slide up between the boot and the ball joint stem, is this normal procedure. If I didn't do that, what happened was the boot slid off where the spring clip goes around. It done this when i dropped the suspension.

Do our boots have grease relief ports?

And is it normal for the boot to sping when you turn the spindle? If it isn't, i guess i have grease underneath where the spring clip is.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

no, if you put too much grease in there, it'll just come out of whereever

billyboy

Upper control arms have pillow ***** too. Have found older ones are usually seized, rarely sloppy...whether that's part of your issue?

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

no not seized. just when i had taken the spindle off, one of the upper control arms just dropped. The other side stayed right where it was, didn't drop.

collectiv

iTrader: (1)

Guys, me and a friend pressed out two of the bushings for the front upper control arm. We pressed two new ones back in, only to realize that one of them the collar on the inside must have broke cause you could take the center sleeve with the balljoint and move it all around. I know for certain that when we pressed it in we used a socket that was the size of the outer sleeve. Have anyone experience this? Also, I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the FSM saying to tighten the bolt and then load the suspension to complete the final torque. Isn't our bushing of the sliding type where there isn't any flexing of both inner and outer sleeves? I've sized it up and can't grasp why you need to do this when it pivots around the center sleeve with the ball joint.