front rubbing looking for new suspension
i have been running Koni Yellow with ground control springs with stock 16s since i owned my 93 fd. I finally got a set of 17x9 with 40 offset and put on 255/40/17 Falken Azenis on. I slowly went around the block and during a left turn with bump while going slow I rubbed in the front. I am trying to find away around this rubbing but looking at not rolling the fenders as I read in other threads. I use the car for autox and take it to local car gathering or shows. only have 170 miles on her this year so you can see i do not drive it much. (also due to having a newborn baby) I am looking at the Ohlins coilover set up but the price is a little high and wondering what is close or other options to look at or simply just get the Ohlins and be happy.
I don't understand.
Tire is rubbing on fender lip at the top of the front wheel arch right?
Coilovers will not help this.
To stop this rubbing, you can adjust for more front camber at the lower front suspension arm eccentric (ie get an alignment with more front camber).
Or you can roll the front fender lip under at the top of the arch.
Coilovers will only help if your tire is rubbing on the shock or spring.
Tire is rubbing on fender lip at the top of the front wheel arch right?
Coilovers will not help this.
To stop this rubbing, you can adjust for more front camber at the lower front suspension arm eccentric (ie get an alignment with more front camber).
Or you can roll the front fender lip under at the top of the arch.
Coilovers will only help if your tire is rubbing on the shock or spring.
it is rubbing on the fender not in the wheel well and right at the top of the wheel arc of the fender. i was thinking a stiffer set up would prevent this but as you are saying camber or rolling would fix the rub of the fender.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,859
Likes: 3,243
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
more negative camber helps a lot, as it moves the top of the tire inwards, it should also help the handling.
you could also raise the ride height, or maybe a little of both
Need smaller diameter tires and/or stiffer springs to stop the wear on the top of the fender liner.
There is a harness up there on the Pass side that you can relocate up above a sheet metal shelf with a zip tie through an existing hole (IDK why it wasn't there from the factory) to help safeguard it.
There is a harness up there on the Pass side that you can relocate up above a sheet metal shelf with a zip tie through an existing hole (IDK why it wasn't there from the factory) to help safeguard it.
There's no way around it, you need to roll your fenders. A lowered car w/ aftermarket wheels make it a necessity. The FD wheel wells are just small. Do it before you lunch up the sheet metal or the paint.
Only alternative is to jack it back up to stock ride height and put the stock wheels back on.
P
Only alternative is to jack it back up to stock ride height and put the stock wheels back on.
P
Trending Topics
The REAL problem most likely is that your car is too low!
If you can not stick two fingers between the top of the tire and the outside edge of the fender arch, your car is too low. The more you lower the car, the heavier suspension springs you need to prevent the deflection from causing the tires to rub.
I ran 17X9 with an offset of 42mm with 255/40-17. They only rubbed a little directly in front of the tire when the wheel is crank inward 100%. Now I run 18X9 with 45mm offset. Same deal.'
My front springs are 10KG with 8KG rears. But my coil overs are adjustable for height.
Your Ground Controls are not.
Attachment is my old 17X9 with +42mm.
If you can not stick two fingers between the top of the tire and the outside edge of the fender arch, your car is too low. The more you lower the car, the heavier suspension springs you need to prevent the deflection from causing the tires to rub.
I ran 17X9 with an offset of 42mm with 255/40-17. They only rubbed a little directly in front of the tire when the wheel is crank inward 100%. Now I run 18X9 with 45mm offset. Same deal.'
My front springs are 10KG with 8KG rears. But my coil overs are adjustable for height.
Your Ground Controls are not.
Attachment is my old 17X9 with +42mm.
Last edited by cewrx7r1; Aug 4, 2016 at 01:33 PM.
that is what I was thinking. this car was raced hard over the years on this Koni Yellow struts with the ground control spring and guessing weakend over time. I am looking into different suspension with stiffer springs and also looking into what camber angle i should be using as well. Is Ohlins a little over kill? mostly driven to car events with in 100 miles, 5 autox events, and one road course event every year.
Ohlins are definitely not overkill as they ride very nicely on the streets on the recommended settings despite their high spring rate.
I went from stock springs on GAB Super Rs to Ohlins and it made the car so much more streetable.
ONLY downside on the street is price in my opinion.
I went from stock springs on GAB Super Rs to Ohlins and it made the car so much more streetable.
ONLY downside on the street is price in my opinion.
Aragosta Suspension
The BEST coilover for street fd's, even great for track use. Aragosta,
Quantum, and Ohlins make the best suspension. Aragosta is one of the
most popular set-ups in Japan. MSRP is $2800. Front: 8k Rear: 10k
Source Time: Four to Five Weeks Price: $1100 + US & Japan S/H
MazdaSpeedc B-Spec
Rare suspension set-up made by Mazda Speed. Has 2 unique
reservoirs. Front: 12k Rear: 10k. MSRP: $3600.
Source Time: Five to Six weeks Price: $1200 + US & Japan S/H
Ohlins DFV
A great over-all suspension available for both street and track driving.
Conservative spring rates, front: 11k and rear: 11k. MSRP: $3200.
These are pre-load adjustable where the PCVs are not.
Source Time: Five to Six weeks Price: $1900 + US & Japan S/H
Ohlins PCV
Great coilover set-up, a step down from the DFV version and a little bit
cheaper. Would use for a street car. Front:11k and Rear:11k.
MSRP:$2900.
Source Time: Five to Six Weeks Price: $1500 + US & Japan shipping
which one Blue TII? this is off the Boutique website. I am thinking the first choice Aragosta.
The BEST coilover for street fd's, even great for track use. Aragosta,
Quantum, and Ohlins make the best suspension. Aragosta is one of the
most popular set-ups in Japan. MSRP is $2800. Front: 8k Rear: 10k
Source Time: Four to Five Weeks Price: $1100 + US & Japan S/H
MazdaSpeedc B-Spec
Rare suspension set-up made by Mazda Speed. Has 2 unique
reservoirs. Front: 12k Rear: 10k. MSRP: $3600.
Source Time: Five to Six weeks Price: $1200 + US & Japan S/H
Ohlins DFV
A great over-all suspension available for both street and track driving.
Conservative spring rates, front: 11k and rear: 11k. MSRP: $3200.
These are pre-load adjustable where the PCVs are not.
Source Time: Five to Six weeks Price: $1900 + US & Japan S/H
Ohlins PCV
Great coilover set-up, a step down from the DFV version and a little bit
cheaper. Would use for a street car. Front:11k and Rear:11k.
MSRP:$2900.
Source Time: Five to Six Weeks Price: $1500 + US & Japan shipping
which one Blue TII? this is off the Boutique website. I am thinking the first choice Aragosta.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,859
Likes: 3,243
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Ohlins DFV.
The others might be great (I have no experience), but I know the Dual Force Valve is very streetable because of the high speed blow off. Also, it is what we get in the USA- so, easily rebuilt/revalved.
The others might be great (I have no experience), but I know the Dual Force Valve is very streetable because of the high speed blow off. Also, it is what we get in the USA- so, easily rebuilt/revalved.
I didn't realize Ground Control made springs, I assumed you were referring to a Ground Control coilover kit for Koni shocks, which is height adjustable.
Konis are adjustable (three position) with the perch clips, make sure they are on the highest one if what you have is actually Eibach Pro-Kit springs. I personally hated those, they were too soft for how much they lower the car, especially at the front.
Bad bump stops may also contribute.
Konis are adjustable (three position) with the perch clips, make sure they are on the highest one if what you have is actually Eibach Pro-Kit springs. I personally hated those, they were too soft for how much they lower the car, especially at the front.
Bad bump stops may also contribute.
A proper suspension should not hit the bump stops except for extreme conditions.
If the bump stops are hit while cornering it acts like an infinite spring or sway bar.
Thus you have instant under or over steer depending if front or rear.
If the bump stops are hit while cornering it acts like an infinite spring or sway bar.
Thus you have instant under or over steer depending if front or rear.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,859
Likes: 3,243
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if you don't believe me go watch nascar, they have a spec spring, so their whole deal is bumpstops
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







