Floaty and jumping suspension - FDs shocks are toast?
Hi 
I purchased my first FD about 2 weeks ago - it's a '94 with about 95,000 miles on the chassis. I drove it home about 800mi from Tennessee to Texas and I noticed a few odd behaviors regarding the suspension that I've started looking into.
The only modifications currently made to the suspension are H&R Sport springs mated to the original shocks. As I was driving my new car home, I noticed a few interesting things:
- As I changed lanes of different heights, the rear end of the car felt like it was hopping or jumping. It didn't feel linear or smooth - I could feel the transfer, it kind of startled me the first time I experienced it.
- At higher speeds (90+ mph), the car feels like it's floating on air. Everything is smooth and the steering wheel remains in a static position, but it scares the hell out of me - I feel like I have no connection with the road and could slide off at any moment.
- I have no clunks or anything coming from the rear that would make me suspect that my pillowball bushings need to be replaced.
From the research I've done, it seems like the symptoms that I'm experiencing are a result of matching springs of heavy rates (4xx/3xx) with stock (and worn out) shock absorbers.
I've started to look into picking up a set of Tein Flex coilovers to replace my current setup and resolve the issues I'm experiencing. My questions are as follows:
- Does it sound like the problems are originating from the shocks, or should I look elsewhere? Alignment, loose parts, etc.
- If my suspicions about the shocks are correct, and if I go ahead and purchase the Tein Flexs, are there any other parts that I should look into replacing at the same time? I've seen people suggesting that it would be helpful to swap out the toe-links as well. Any other parts you feel might be worth checking out while everything is torn apart?
Thanks in advance!

I purchased my first FD about 2 weeks ago - it's a '94 with about 95,000 miles on the chassis. I drove it home about 800mi from Tennessee to Texas and I noticed a few odd behaviors regarding the suspension that I've started looking into.
The only modifications currently made to the suspension are H&R Sport springs mated to the original shocks. As I was driving my new car home, I noticed a few interesting things:
- As I changed lanes of different heights, the rear end of the car felt like it was hopping or jumping. It didn't feel linear or smooth - I could feel the transfer, it kind of startled me the first time I experienced it.
- At higher speeds (90+ mph), the car feels like it's floating on air. Everything is smooth and the steering wheel remains in a static position, but it scares the hell out of me - I feel like I have no connection with the road and could slide off at any moment.
- I have no clunks or anything coming from the rear that would make me suspect that my pillowball bushings need to be replaced.
From the research I've done, it seems like the symptoms that I'm experiencing are a result of matching springs of heavy rates (4xx/3xx) with stock (and worn out) shock absorbers.
I've started to look into picking up a set of Tein Flex coilovers to replace my current setup and resolve the issues I'm experiencing. My questions are as follows:
- Does it sound like the problems are originating from the shocks, or should I look elsewhere? Alignment, loose parts, etc.
- If my suspicions about the shocks are correct, and if I go ahead and purchase the Tein Flexs, are there any other parts that I should look into replacing at the same time? I've seen people suggesting that it would be helpful to swap out the toe-links as well. Any other parts you feel might be worth checking out while everything is torn apart?
Thanks in advance!
With that many miles on the stock dampers i'd be willing to bet they're extremely tired, to say the least. Having stiffer springs on top of that and there's no doubt in my mind that they're toast. If you're planning on getting the Flex's anyway, i'd say go ahead and do that, get a good alignment and see where that puts you. Heck, i bet you'd even see some improvement even on dead shocks by just getting everything properly aligned! (It's amazing how so many people neglect to align their cars over the years. I take my car on track and get it aligned at least twice a year. On a street car i'd still get one every 12-18 months or at every tire change.)
But worn dampers will make a car almost scary at speed. I wouldn't worry about replacing anything else, unless your bearings are excessively worn. (Which is possible as weak dampers tend to make bearing wear a bit faster than usual through extra suspension movement.) New toe links are always a good idea, but i wouldn't say that they're necessary. I haven't replaced mine (~71k mi), have coilovers, and track the car several times a year and i have no problem.
Also, if you're looking at coilovers, i could probably get you a good deal on some D2s (retail for $1600, i could get them for closer to $1000...i have good connections to a local dealer). I've had em on my car for a few months now and have a friend who has them on his Maxima. They're awesome. I also have a friend who runs the Flexs, and they're a great setup too. I would say they're ideal for the street as their spring rates are slightly softer (10kg/8kg) and would work ok for limited track use. The D2s are slightly stiffer (11kg/9kg) and are an aluminum monotube design with a bigger piston that is more sensitive to input and won't run as hot as the twin tube design on the track. PM me in you'd be interested. But you can't go wrong either way.
Good luck!
But worn dampers will make a car almost scary at speed. I wouldn't worry about replacing anything else, unless your bearings are excessively worn. (Which is possible as weak dampers tend to make bearing wear a bit faster than usual through extra suspension movement.) New toe links are always a good idea, but i wouldn't say that they're necessary. I haven't replaced mine (~71k mi), have coilovers, and track the car several times a year and i have no problem.
Also, if you're looking at coilovers, i could probably get you a good deal on some D2s (retail for $1600, i could get them for closer to $1000...i have good connections to a local dealer). I've had em on my car for a few months now and have a friend who has them on his Maxima. They're awesome. I also have a friend who runs the Flexs, and they're a great setup too. I would say they're ideal for the street as their spring rates are slightly softer (10kg/8kg) and would work ok for limited track use. The D2s are slightly stiffer (11kg/9kg) and are an aluminum monotube design with a bigger piston that is more sensitive to input and won't run as hot as the twin tube design on the track. PM me in you'd be interested. But you can't go wrong either way.
Good luck!
Last edited by Efini_7; Jan 18, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate your input!
The previous owner installed the H&R springs, but I can't find any reciept for an alignment - I wouldn't be surprised if it's completely out of wack at the moment.
I went to get a printout of my alignment today at a local shop. First they told me it was $30 for a printout, and $60 if I wanted to actually have it aligned. As they were getting ready to take my car, they said "Oh, your is car lowered? It will cost $80 to align it then.." and I was like 'OK, I just want to see what my specs are set to at the moment'. Then I got to thinking, why the hell would it cost me $20 extra if it was lowered?
I asked them and they said "because you have to adjust more settings". I'm assuming they're referring to dialing out the excessive negative camber that usually results from lowering, but I told them that should be included as part of a full alignment anyways. The service guy got really pissed and short with me, and said "that's what happens when you treat your car like a toy". I was like "excuse me, you think my car is a toy?" I was fuming at this point, so I just walked outside and waited for them to pull it on the rack so I could go the hell home.
As soon as he backed up, he drove it off onto the street. I walked inside and I was like 'What are you guys doing? Why the hell do you need to drive my car on the street to do an ALIGNMENT PRINTOUT??' and the guy responded 'we always test drive our cars, you signed a sheet that said we could'.
At this point I was pretty pissed off, so I just waited for him to get back and pull it on the rack. As soon as he started to pull it on the rack, they realized it wouldn't fit on because it was too low. They sent me home and I gave them the finger and drove off. I check my PowerFC commander and the test driver felt it necessary to rev to 5500 and boost to 7psi.
So now I'm back with no clue what my alignment is set at, but considerably pissed off.
Does anyone have any more suggestions? I really appreciate all your input this far, I could really use some more. Thanks!
The previous owner installed the H&R springs, but I can't find any reciept for an alignment - I wouldn't be surprised if it's completely out of wack at the moment.
I went to get a printout of my alignment today at a local shop. First they told me it was $30 for a printout, and $60 if I wanted to actually have it aligned. As they were getting ready to take my car, they said "Oh, your is car lowered? It will cost $80 to align it then.." and I was like 'OK, I just want to see what my specs are set to at the moment'. Then I got to thinking, why the hell would it cost me $20 extra if it was lowered?
I asked them and they said "because you have to adjust more settings". I'm assuming they're referring to dialing out the excessive negative camber that usually results from lowering, but I told them that should be included as part of a full alignment anyways. The service guy got really pissed and short with me, and said "that's what happens when you treat your car like a toy". I was like "excuse me, you think my car is a toy?" I was fuming at this point, so I just walked outside and waited for them to pull it on the rack so I could go the hell home.
As soon as he backed up, he drove it off onto the street. I walked inside and I was like 'What are you guys doing? Why the hell do you need to drive my car on the street to do an ALIGNMENT PRINTOUT??' and the guy responded 'we always test drive our cars, you signed a sheet that said we could'.
At this point I was pretty pissed off, so I just waited for him to get back and pull it on the rack. As soon as he started to pull it on the rack, they realized it wouldn't fit on because it was too low. They sent me home and I gave them the finger and drove off. I check my PowerFC commander and the test driver felt it necessary to rev to 5500 and boost to 7psi.
So now I'm back with no clue what my alignment is set at, but considerably pissed off.
Does anyone have any more suggestions? I really appreciate all your input this far, I could really use some more. Thanks!
Man that sucks. Yeah, i've learned not to just take my car to any shop. Try to find a local shop that has a good reputation with high end sports cars or, better yet, a shop that has a good reputation among autocrossers or track enthusiasts. They'll really know what they're doing and won't jerk you around. If you participate in any sort of track event just ask around and see who people are taking thier cars to. Usually you can even find someone there who runs their own shop and has had plenty of experience when it comes to suspension type work. If you can't do any of that, post here and other local forums and ask for recommendations. The longer you have an FD the more you find out that most shops have no clue how to properly treat/handle your car.
For a high end shop, $80 for an alignment is normal. I take mine to a one man shop and it takes a little longer and costs about $100 but he is meticulous in his work and doesn't cut any corners.
Hope you have better luck next time.
For a high end shop, $80 for an alignment is normal. I take mine to a one man shop and it takes a little longer and costs about $100 but he is meticulous in his work and doesn't cut any corners.
Hope you have better luck next time.
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