FD Rear Suspension
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FD Rear Suspension
Hi Guys,
i am running the ohlins coilovers on my fd, 18x10.5 +45 wheel with a 275/35 hoosier A6. 600/450 pound springs
after reading howards thead, the car is set at 25". I am bottoming out the coilover with ease... i am sending them all away to get re-valved but i am thinking of potentially getting them shortened.
i have some other options
1. run 17" rims
2. raise the car
3. custom rear upper arms
4. run a lower profile tyre
what are your thoughts?
Regards,
Adam.
i am running the ohlins coilovers on my fd, 18x10.5 +45 wheel with a 275/35 hoosier A6. 600/450 pound springs
after reading howards thead, the car is set at 25". I am bottoming out the coilover with ease... i am sending them all away to get re-valved but i am thinking of potentially getting them shortened.
i have some other options
1. run 17" rims
2. raise the car
3. custom rear upper arms
4. run a lower profile tyre
what are your thoughts?
Regards,
Adam.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: CA
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The tire you are running is taller than the stock tire by about 3/4", per the lookup I did. If you set the fender lip to the same height as for a stock diameter tire (I'm not sure what Howard is running, but I think it's close to stock), you have about 3/8" less travel than expected. The rim size won't really matter, the main effect is from the overall tire diameter.
Raising the height is fairly easy, the re-alignment afterwards being the hardest part. Maybe try going up 1/2" and see how it looks and rides? Assuming these were for the car, I'm surprised you are bottoming out as the spring rate certaily seems high enough.
Raising the height is fairly easy, the re-alignment afterwards being the hardest part. Maybe try going up 1/2" and see how it looks and rides? Assuming these were for the car, I'm surprised you are bottoming out as the spring rate certaily seems high enough.
#4
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
What exactly is it doing when you say bottoming out? How does the car feel when it happens?
Howard had recommended using a zip tie on the shock rod to measure for this type of scenario. Have you tried doing that? If so, how much compression did you measure?
For what its worth, I ran into Jack Mardikian at a NASA event at Buttonwillow last year. There is a thread on his car in the Race section. Very impressive and fast car driven by a fast racer. He recommended running a higher ride height than Howard does b/c he found that he did not have enough rear suspension travel at lower ride heights.
Howard had recommended using a zip tie on the shock rod to measure for this type of scenario. Have you tried doing that? If so, how much compression did you measure?
For what its worth, I ran into Jack Mardikian at a NASA event at Buttonwillow last year. There is a thread on his car in the Race section. Very impressive and fast car driven by a fast racer. He recommended running a higher ride height than Howard does b/c he found that he did not have enough rear suspension travel at lower ride heights.
#6
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
Just wondering if you're getting something like coil bind from too short a spring vs a bottoming or worn/blown shock.
The only time I ever got bang was on old worn out shocks at a low ride height on driver's rear under power exiting corners. Ride height was about 25" - 25.25" or so measured w/o driver at the time. Didn't happen again after my Konis were revalved and rebuilt but I also raised rear ride height to about 25.5" w/ driver weight and half tank of gas. Others probably have more experience than I in this respect since this is the only car that I've ever gone beyond off the shelf street parts on.
I have seen pics of a lowered spindle for use on low running race cars to gain more travel. That might be an option over custom upper arms.
The only time I ever got bang was on old worn out shocks at a low ride height on driver's rear under power exiting corners. Ride height was about 25" - 25.25" or so measured w/o driver at the time. Didn't happen again after my Konis were revalved and rebuilt but I also raised rear ride height to about 25.5" w/ driver weight and half tank of gas. Others probably have more experience than I in this respect since this is the only car that I've ever gone beyond off the shelf street parts on.
I have seen pics of a lowered spindle for use on low running race cars to gain more travel. That might be an option over custom upper arms.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its not the springs, i know there is a place in japan making custom rear uprights. their ok, but quite expensive
i can get shorter bodied shocks, proflex is my local tarmac brand. made to suit
i am also thinking i will need to cut some of the inner rear guard out, on the outer section... where the tyre touches after some camber gain
i can get shorter bodied shocks, proflex is my local tarmac brand. made to suit
i am also thinking i will need to cut some of the inner rear guard out, on the outer section... where the tyre touches after some camber gain
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GrossPolluter
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
12
08-15-15 10:32 PM