Just curious if anyone was running a 17" or larger wheel in the back in 10.5" width with +42mm offset and whether they rub. Pictures would be great.

The Volk TE-37s I'm looking at only come in a +42mm offset for the 10.5" wheel (+45mm would be ideal), and that's right on the line as far as front clearance (4.0", +/-0.1") from what Manny has said.

11.5" (nominal width) / 2 = 5.75" + 1.65" (42mm) = ~7.4" backspacing.
11.5" - 7.4" = ~4.1" front spacing.

 

Herblenny apparently got a set of 18x10.5 +43 SSR Competitions to fit in the rear... i can't remember what size tires. Seems to me they were 275/35/18.

He said it did require a little fender rolling.

 

Jimlab, does your v8 rx7 run yet?

 

I wonder if that was required by his ride height. I'm not going for the "tucked" look.

I could just play it safe and go with a 9.5" wheel in the back. 19x9.5", +45mm would have 1/2" clearance front and rear. In the front, a 19x8.5", +44mm would have 1/2" clearance in front, and about an inch in the back, and they'd look pretty balanced.

That would be about 1/2" too narrow for my 285s in the back (Bridgestone recommends a 10" rim), but it'd probably look just fine. It just wouldn't be "ideal".

 

No, it's missing a few things, like wheels. And an engine, transmission, differential, axles, fuel lines, brakes...

 

I don't think you'd be very happy w/ a 285 on a 9.5" rim. A friend of mine did that on his supra, and found that the 275/35/18 gave him more grip. Looked better too. S03s are available in that size. Or did you get 19's?

In any case, my rears are 10" +44s. You need Modulars Jim!

 

P285/30-19s for the back and P245/35-19s for the front, and I've already got them. I let my cousin talk me into the 19s and probably should have gone for 18s instead. I've just seen a few FDs with 19s and really like the look. 18s might as well be 17s.

Probably, but traction is going to be at a premium anyway with my power, I'm not tracking the car, and I just don't feel like spending the money when I can come very close for half the cost.

 

Well, you might look into some of the 2-piece GT series Volks.. like the GTP... same basic look as the TE37, but in a nicer finish,, and I believe available in more widths/offsets.

They weigh more than TE's but with your power and application, that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Jim ive started my hks to4r turbo 5.0 engine and plan on running 600 to the tires, do you think 285 will be enough for our application? I was thinking 315's in back and 285's up front?

 

You won't easily fit 315s without flares, and they wouldn't do you much good any way. No street tire known to man will stick 600+ horsepower to the ground at lower speeds at WOT. Short of buying stock in a tire company, you have three choices...

1. Do all your WOT runs at highway speeds or faster.
2. Learn to control your throttle pedal at lower speeds.
3. Buy a traction control system to do it for you.

 

MTI has the Profil 5s listed at $4,314 for 19x9.5 and 19x10.5s. Jeez, that's a lot to pay for such a boring wheel...

http://www.motorsporttech.com/c5_wheels_tires01.asp

 

Yeah **** that man. Those rims are ugly.

1.I kinda will be doing this.My turbo wont spool up til maybe 3200-3500 rpms.I didn't know if i would still be smoking through tires in higher gears.I've thought about running drag radials on the street, but I am sure the tire would be destroyed in no time flat.

2.Sounds like the best plan so far.

3.I'm looking into this but 2500-7500 dollars for this.sheesh. Not being leadfooted will probably work just as good.

 

I got my RaceLogic traction control system as part of a group buy for $800something, normally $1,100something.

 

Less is more, Jim.

You could always ship em to Japan and have Volk drill some extra psuedo-lug holes in them, paint them white, and but blue stickers on them :-)

 

It will fit if you roll the fenders and run the correct offset. No fender flaring required. Tire selection and suspension setup will come into play though. I've seen it fitted with Hoosiers on 17x12's and 18x11's. On John Purner's CCW wheels with +50 offsets, IIRC. Aftermarket (M2, k2RD, etc) toelinks and trailing arms along with 2.5" ID springs required. But with street tires, it may be a little tougher due to the generally wider section widths.

Spank has fitted 335's in the rear without fender flaring!

 

Not necessarily. I'm trying to stay away from a 5-spoke design. 6 or 7 would be better. 5-spokes were done to death in the 80s and 90s.

Who said anything about white wheels with stickers? I plan to have the Volks stripped and polished if I go with the TE-37s.

 

Which part of that do you call easy? Or cheap?

It can be done with the right offset and combination of parts, but what's the point? A P315 won't offer any more traction than a P285 or P295 of the same brand and design. Coefficient of friction remains constant while pressure on the contact patch is reduced, which negates the benefit of the increased width. The only reason people believe wider tires gain them traction is because the increased weight, not the width, makes it harder for the engine to break them loose.

 

Indeed.. 5 spoke is "done". If I had ordered mine new, I might have gone w/ the Mach V's instead of the FM-10s... and the profil 13's I saw on Paul Winter's car looked nice too.

I knew you wouldn't put white wheels on your car.. I was just being sarchastic about Volk's styling "taste"... particularly in response to twint78's comment that the FM5s are ugly.

See if Volk will put the "millenium silver" finish on your TE's. You've said befor that the 37s look better in larger sizes... i agree yours will look cooler than most in 19".

 

I don't think I want a wheel with a silver finish. I had a perfectly good set of 17" Koenig Villains (SSR Integrals, basically) in silver that looked like *** once the car was painted... never mind the engine-less, transmission-less, differential-less 4x4 look...



The Kinesis K19s (below) I could live with. They're a lot like the HRE 543s. I had the K57s on my Supra, and I don't want another set of 5-spokes. Unfortunately, Kinesis is supremely limited in the design department...



I think I sort of lost sight of my priorities. Wheels can make or break a car, and I need to put some more thought into this. That's probably why I didn't just pull the trigger on the BC Forged wheels (BC04) which are very similar to the TE37s.

 

Well, I never made any claims to it being cheap and/or easy.

But with respect to traction, the pressure on the contact patch should not be reduced. A force is still a force ... regardless if it's applied on 20 cm2 area or a 25 cm2 area. Now if the camber is not set correctly to take advantage of the increased width, well ... then yeah, it's pointless to go bigger. But, we're talking about an IRS here, right? (Sorry, I haven't really kept up with your project ... )

Not like it matters anyhow ... you already bought the tires. FWIW, I think Fikse FM10's, HRE 840R's, or HRE 540R's would look badass with the EBM color.





Kewl.

 

Here ya go Jim... a REAL quick photoshop job w/ some 19" profil 13's.

 

Apparently you've never used a pair of snowshoes...

Presure is not "just" pressure. The reason a tall, narrow tire cuts through water while a fat, wide tire hydroplanes is because the weight of the car is fixed while contact patch changes. Increase the contact patch and you've distributed that weight over a larger area, reducing pressure at any given point. Which is why you don't sink into the snow when wearing snowshoes.

 

Gah! Are those polished spares?

 

Wider tires will generally provide better traction than narrower tires made of the same material. Coefficients of friction are theoretical maximums for a given material, and variables such as heat retention and contact patch load and shape enable wider tires to produce a coefficient closer to the theoretical maximum when compared to narrower tires carrying the same load. It is entirely possible that a 275 will outperform a 315, but this result would be unlikely if the material was the same in both tires.

Your statement might be true for a non-deformable material, or for tires with very hard rubber, but is not accurate for soft performace tires.

 

If I were willing to pay $6,000 just for my wheels, the HRE 541Rs might be interesting... sort of a Z06 look.



The 546R is pretty close to the TE37... with rivets.



And the 841R would look great without the slots. For $6,000, you'd think you'd be able to get them without if you want, but I doubt it. That's probably a $2,000 option.