Does anyone have the alignment specs for 19" wheels?
Does anyone have the alignment specs for 19" wheels?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,131
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From: IN
Alignments
Wheel diameter shouldn't make a difference with alignment settings.
Tire width will make a difference!
Wider tires in the rear positions require slightly more positive camber to make use of the increased rear contact patch--so perhaps 0.8 or 0.5 degrees negative camber in back (compared with the stock 1 degree negative camber). Assuming similar-to-stock tire widths in front, you should stay with stock front end camber of 1 to 1.1 degrees negative.
Front castor, and toe settings will not change from stock. Typcially you use +5 to +7 castor, and zero or slight toe-in. FWIW, I use zero toe and + castor.
Rear thrust angle will remain zero. Rear toe will remain zero.
Tire width will make a difference!
Wider tires in the rear positions require slightly more positive camber to make use of the increased rear contact patch--so perhaps 0.8 or 0.5 degrees negative camber in back (compared with the stock 1 degree negative camber). Assuming similar-to-stock tire widths in front, you should stay with stock front end camber of 1 to 1.1 degrees negative.
Front castor, and toe settings will not change from stock. Typcially you use +5 to +7 castor, and zero or slight toe-in. FWIW, I use zero toe and + castor.
Rear thrust angle will remain zero. Rear toe will remain zero.
OG
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 1
From: Pleasanton,California
Re: Alignments
Originally posted by SleepR1
Wheel diameter shouldn't make a difference with alignment settings.
Tire width will make a difference!
Wider tires in the rear positions require slightly more positive camber to make use of the increased rear contact patch--so perhaps 0.8 or 0.5 degrees negative camber in back (compared with the stock 1 degree negative camber). Assuming similar-to-stock tire widths in front, you should stay with stock front end camber of 1 to 1.1 degrees negative.
Front castor, and toe settings will not change from stock. Typcially you use +5 to +7 castor, and zero or slight toe-in. FWIW, I use zero toe and + castor.
Rear thrust angle will remain zero. Rear toe will remain zero.
Wheel diameter shouldn't make a difference with alignment settings.
Tire width will make a difference!
Wider tires in the rear positions require slightly more positive camber to make use of the increased rear contact patch--so perhaps 0.8 or 0.5 degrees negative camber in back (compared with the stock 1 degree negative camber). Assuming similar-to-stock tire widths in front, you should stay with stock front end camber of 1 to 1.1 degrees negative.
Front castor, and toe settings will not change from stock. Typcially you use +5 to +7 castor, and zero or slight toe-in. FWIW, I use zero toe and + castor.
Rear thrust angle will remain zero. Rear toe will remain zero.
I'm going for my 18" alignment soon and will be doing those #'s
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,131
Likes: 2
From: IN
Johnny
If you're typically the only one inside your car at any time, I'd have the alignment done with your body weight in the driver's seat. That's the way I had mine done recently.
My 240 lbs of dead weight made a big difference in the camber settings, so the tech set everything as I sat in my usual driving position. This techique will ensure even tire wear at all four tires (assuming you're always the only one inside the car). Out on track, you'll notice the tire temps fairly even across the contact patches, which is good for tire grip, and handling.
Another plus, is YOU get to make sure the wheel is perfectly straight when it's time to do that part. It's hard for the tech straighten the wheel without looking down the steering column axis while NOT sitting in the drivers seat.
Good luck!
My 240 lbs of dead weight made a big difference in the camber settings, so the tech set everything as I sat in my usual driving position. This techique will ensure even tire wear at all four tires (assuming you're always the only one inside the car). Out on track, you'll notice the tire temps fairly even across the contact patches, which is good for tire grip, and handling.
Another plus, is YOU get to make sure the wheel is perfectly straight when it's time to do that part. It's hard for the tech straighten the wheel without looking down the steering column axis while NOT sitting in the drivers seat.
Good luck!
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