I'm looking for some suggestions on brakefluid to run in my setup. I'm installing Hawk HPS, Powerslot rotors, SS lines etc... I've looked at Motul 600 and a few other ones. But, I'm wondering if there is something cheaper/easier to get ahold of that would suffice. I do a little drifting, but also some hard auto-X/solo II style abuse from time to time. This thing also sees 70+ miles a day so what would you suggest?

 

ATE Superblue is a good fluid and is half the price.

 

I second that motion. I use ATE Superblue (normal roads and road course), and I bought it here:

www.ogracing.com

 

Both Blue and Gold the same price here: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Pick up a Power Bleeder while you are at it.

 

If you're doing autox only and no track days you have no need for "high performance" brake fluid. In fact the true racing fluids have to be changed more often because they attract moisture more quickly so you get to pay more AND more often.

Stick with something off the shelf that is still high quality. I use and like Valvoline Synpower. It's cheap and still has great temp specs while not requiring changing every few months.

 

Damon, the ATE fluid does not need changing as much as the really exotic fluids. It also has a very high wet boiling temp, much higher than off-the-shelf products. It is also readily available from dozens of places online.

I think it's important to run very good fluid at the track, especially when not running "track" pads.....

FDreaming: BTW, don't run the HPS pads at the track. Not only do they fade, but I managed to completely MELT my last set at the track. I wouldn't trust them again. At the least, run HP+ or similar pads. Even better would be to swap out to track pads for the event.

 

Thanks for all the help so far guys. Anyone know of anyplaces selling the Superblue off the shelf? I'd preffer to not have to send out for this.

Rynberg- thanks for the advice i was thinking I'd have to run something more aggresive if I make it out to a time trial, so now I'll jut plan on it.

 

I think the main issue is that when the fluid starts to get 'wet' it increases the likely hood of corrosion in your system. There are still parts in the brake system that'll rust given half the chance. Fluids like the Motul and Castrol work extremely well when they are wet, infact, as well as if not better than most others but get changed to prevent rust.

I use the Motul in my car for track days and I didn't think it was really that expensive. Not compared to the Castrol stuff anyway.

 

I used the HPS on the track at IRP with no fade. But you have more power and were going faster than I was I guess. I still love them for the street.

 

I have more power, a lot more weight, and I'm guessing Buttonwillow (full track) is harder on brakes than IRP.

Full track at Buttonwillow = repeatedly braking from over 100mph down to 35-60mph.

 

Now, for example the Motul 600 is a synthetic (non-silicon) brake fluid so in theory it'd resist moisture alot better than the ATF superblue right? What would be the downside to running the Motul on the street?

 

No. ATE is a completely synthetic fluid as well and, by all accounts, lasts significantly longer in street use than Motul 600.

ATE Super Blue = 536/392F boiling points
Motul 600 = 593/420F boiling points
Valvoline SynPower = 500/343F boiling points

Of course, the price more than doubles for each small gain in performance. I think the ATE Super Blue hits the best point along the diminishing returns scale....

 

The only high temp, universally available, cheap brake fluid is Ford DOT 3. Dry Boiling point is 550, wet is 290, just bleed before you go to the track. This fluid does attract moisture more than some, but if there is moisture in the system, then when you bleed the brakes the moisture goes with it.

More info on brake fluid is here: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html

 

The Ford brake fluid is an excellent and cheap racing brake fluid, but I would completely flush the system before a track weekend, not just bleed it, due to the moisture absorption properties and the dramatic drop in boiling point with that moisture absorption.

For street and autocross, I've been very happy with Castrol LMA (low moisture absorption) - also quite inexpensive. (It did fine for my Miata on the track, but the 7 is too much for it.)

 

Yeah, that's what I meant, flush it untill it comes out the caliper the same color (or very close to) the color that it is when it's in the bottle.

 

I've been using the Ford Hi-performance brake fluid for the last 7 years. 550 F boiling point, and cheap at any Ford Dealer. I road race, and I bleed my brakes at home before each racetrack weekend. I have no brake fluid boiling problems with my 1979 ISMA GTU race car..