imitek

Plan to go germany ring nx month after peoples experiance on there and specific setups i can use
At the moment my setup i set it to

Enkei rpf1 18x10 front
18x10.5 rear
Suspensions are hks adjustable the springs kg's
Front 11kg
Rear 9kg not 100% on springs will need to look at them again changed around so many cant remember i no i went more stif than what they come with
Dampers set to 60%
front camber set to 1.8deg
Rear set to 1.5 deg
Stock toes

The ride is bit hard but i like it
Any help would be great thanks

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

OK, but you don't mention your tires.

If you are on max perf. street tires your set-up sounds great.

If you are on non DOT race tires double your spring rates.

The amount of grip from the tires you have will dictate how far off (or on) your bumpstops you will be cornering with the set-up have.

imitek

Sorry for late reply I have not orderd tyres yet im planing on running the federal rsr
Size would be 2653518 all round
I could squeeze on 275 on rear the arch and would need bit more roling the 265 its pritty close

Thanks for your input very helpfull

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Your set-up should be very good for those tires.

I didn't race on a full size track on this set-up, but I did do auto-x, Kart track and hillclimb (as well as lots of street miles).

18x10.5 Enkei PF01 +38 Front and Rear
265/35-18 Federal RS-R

Ohlins DFV 11K/11K springs
Height as recommended by Ohlins (~25.5 from ground to fender arch *varies once corner weighted).

Front Camber -2.4 deg
Rear Camber -1.2 deg

Zero Front Toe
~ 1/16" Rear Toe

Front and Rear poly bushings eliminating the stock variable toe "sliding" bushings and steering rack bushings.
(At first I raced with stock bushings, but they did not last long)
----

RS-R is very good performing cheap tire, just not very refined (noise and quality). I have them on my daily driver now. I love the sidewall strength/feel with very slight stretch.

imitek

So i was sliding all over the track cluldnt figure out why it felt like alignmet was out or somthing like that
ether way track was amazing
People realy nice and polite
Guy at track was unsure about my spoiler said "its a bit massive"
Let me on track but said if moterbikes come on ill have to take it off not a problem i said
I think i gave fd owners a bad name i got overtaken by a smart car lol
Track was wet basicly to give u an idea of how slow i was going took me 14min to complete 1 lap

3 big crashes last crash shut the track down for hour or so

So after all this i thort ill go to local alignment shop to find not only was the alignment out and my gauges are complet crap lol gona get another set of tyres and get the alignment sorted most likly gona put her away till summer time now

Dont think ill be doing alignment again till i get desent gauges
I had a bubble type camber checker

Once again thanks again for evryones help as always

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

You had some rear toe out.

That is scary!

Glad you were careful on the wet track and both you and FD made it home safe.

imitek

Had some free time today so thort id try adjusting the alignment again
I took to a friends garage using his gauges and they are showing
Front left -2deg camber
front right -1.9deg camber
Rear left -2 camber
Rear right -1.4 camber i couldnt figure out what wheel is 4 deg any way he had 2 sets of gauges and both read same pluss i used my bubble beam camber gauge and also says the same so just for testing i went back to basic and set evrything to 0 and start again
i used these settings
front toe 0
Rear toe 0
Front camber -.9
Rear camber -.4

And took it for drive to my suprise no longer sliding in wet upon loading the front end on cornering

Where as in past it used to slip around 30mph when u put more angle on turn

Now im getting twitching under heavy breaking
( could this be caster related)

Im going to play with the alignment bit more

This is compleatly diffrent car now feels safer to drive

My only theory is the camber was to much at -1.9deg at and the inner edge of tyre was not suficant area for tyres to grip cant be to sure tho

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

That toe out must of made your car sketchy at high speeds!

You have good rates for your tires. I would consider going a bit stiffer if you upgrade to the top shelf street tires like the Rivals, RE71rs or RS3's. Also, I personally prefer keeping equal rates F/R with a stiffer front bar/oem rear. Just my .02

BTW to my surprise my OEM bushings are still holding up. Planning on going aftermarket soon.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

try adding a little rear toe.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

i used these settings
front toe 0
Rear toe 0

Now im getting twitching under heavy breaking
( could this be caster related)


j9fd3s try adding a little rear toe.

^^
I would add a little front toe as well.

You showed us your static alignment, now I will tell you how the FD's toe control bushings work.

From Yamaguchi RX-7 book pages 98 to 103 (section titled "Toe Control")

I won't type it all out, but the jist of it is-

Under initial braking force (the suspension load from applying braking force through the tires) the front toes out and the rear does not change toe.

From the resultant weight transfer of braking the front toes out more as it lowers and the rear begins to toe in as it raises.

"Assuming 0.75-g of braking force is generated, the front suspension will have 0.25-degrees toe out, and the rear 0.34-degrees toe in."

As the brake is released and the front comes up the front now gains toe in to where it has a sum total of toe in (remember it was toe out under braking) and now the rear comes down and gains toe out to a sum total of toe out (its natural rolling state)

As lateral loads into the suspension from turning are added in from turning now the front toes out again and the rear toes in.
-------------

If it sounds like it is all over the place with toe, IT REALLY IS!

If you put poly bushings in the front and rear upper arms to eliminate the stock sliding bushings you eliminate this silly toe dance and the FD drives a lot cleaner.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

in the 13 or so years we've been racing, we have had a chance to play with everything on the suspension. out of all the alignment angles rear toe is the most sensitive. for the FD, blue Tii's explanation probably covers the why.

we've also never had a car work with zero rear toe, they all like a little toe in in the rear. i would try adding a little, it is usually a sensitive adjustment.

conversely front toe does next to nothing, and once you're within about a half degree, camber isn't that critical either. at least on the tires we run, if you're using something like an Ra1, which wants 97 degrees of camber, and you can only get 52, camber is really important. most tires only want 3-4 degrees of camber, so if you're around 2.5 to 4.5 you're in the happy spot.

imitek

I did find at about 140ish i was holding the wheel bit tighter and both hands
I have a massive wing on back dont no if that was masking the problem
A bit

I have fully polibushed the car with the black series bushes and used the solid pillow ball bushes

Took me a while to get my head around the movment i understand better now braking pulls wheels back and opersit on acell

I think you are correct in saying toe i will put little toe on front as well as back

Another question about the caster if that is diffrent from front left to front right should this cause any issues ?

Will take out again to conferm how its twitching

Gona see when i can get back on aligner again

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

caster pulls the wheels straight, like a shopping trolley. how much caster dictates how much the wheel gets pulled straight. so different amounts of caster will cause the car to pull slightly one way. most cars are actually setup to pull slightly one way, as the traditional road is crowned, and so the car wants to wander off it, so adding a little caster evens that out.

imitek

Ok so say if on front if i had 3deg front left and 5 Deg on front right
And evrything els is set to 0 like camber toe etc

Would this cause issue just simply backing off throttle ?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

it should pull to the side with 5 degrees all the time

imitek

So mot was due thort id a shot of the brakes what do you guys think

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I think I don't understand a word you just posted

Marf

thort = thought

mot = Ministry of Transport Test - yearly safety test for all cars in the UK

Looks like a picture of the brake tester used during the test.

Imi, speak English chap!

billyboy

I'm thinking Manuel from Fawlty Towers or Samuel L Jackson from Pulp Fiction - depending on which side of the Atlantic you're on, might have appropriate responses! Near side rear, wouldn't have quite expected that difference....interesting.

To the earlier post, a lot of computer wheel alignments are absolute fiction. Usually, not the sharpest tool in the shed working at your local tyre shop and maintenance and calibration, foreign concepts. Amazing what a simple piece of string and a steel rule can tell you about some of those exercises you've just shelled out for.

imitek

I'm sorry I get a bit excited and go cross eyed sometimes
the brake machine showing imbalance on front and rear

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i have learned that nearside = drivers side, the UK is RHD. the off side is the other side, left. they tend to put things in boots, whilst we wear them as shoes... we put wings on airplanes, they put them on cars. we put lifts in shoes, they put them in buildings, stuff like that. common ocean separated by a different language...

the alignment machines need to be installed, and then calibrated, and then recalibrated every so often, most aren't. i suspect you know this already, but if you walk through the pits at any medium size to big race, they all use string. suspend a piece of fishing line between two sticks and its always straight

i dunno about the rest of the country, but we don't have a brake test machine like that. in the race cars we've logged hydraulic pressure, but i think that is different. so i don't know what those numbers mean

Marf

You fit brake rotors we fit brake discs.

Nearside is the side nearest the kerb.

Offside is the side furthest from the kerb(drivers side in the UK)

Now, what is your favourite colour? Mine is the greyish silver of aluminium