cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The old EBC Greens were fantastic but now they have a different formula and suck.
Hawk HP+ are good but dust too much and it is corrosive on aluminum wheels.

Racing Brake ET700 is great for street and ligh track. Good cold braking and they are good for +200 degrees over Hawk HP+.

ALPSTA

iTrader: (3)

My EBC green stuff pads in my red calipers look like I have watermellons behind the wheels

Exidous

I am using Performance Friction pads. They were released the month I bought them. About two years ago. They are meant to be street/track use. They are silent and have pretty low dust. The ONLY issue I have with them is that they glaze if you don't beat the **** out of them like an aggressive clutch every once and a while. I'd say a monthly beat on is plenty. Couple fast stops from 70 fixes them. They have pads for Stoptechs, stock fronts and stock backs for the FD.

Forgot to mention, they are a bit expensive. I think they were about $130.00 for the fronts. I have 10k miles on them and they look to be about 25% worn at most.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

I'm glad I bumped this; already two pass that I haven't heard of. Gotta love when companies take a working product and change it.

I recently purchased a set of EBC BlueStuff NDX pads with EBC GD rotors, which were all fairly expensive. The initial BlueStuff compound had a few poor reviews for cracking under heavy track use, and supposedly the new NDX compound alleviates this issue. I will be doing MUCH more street driving than track, like 100:1. I'm going to be installing them in the spring, so I will be sure to post a review afterwards.

Is your ET700 review from personal knowledge? How difficult are they on rotors? There s

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

MADD, chuck has run the ET700s and speaks from serious personal experience

Endless MX72 are a phenomenal dual-purpose pad. Low dust, next to no noise, and they stop the car very well. If you need more braking then the MX72 on the road course, then you're a very experienced driver who is cookin' around the track

I have lots of firsthand experience with the compound and it's amazing. It lasts a LONG time too.... they're not cheap, but given the life of the pad it's a good value IMO.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

Whoa, those MX72s are expensive! Looks like I'll be ordering a set, thanks for the info!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Is that experience using them with the stock brakes or a BBK? The reason I ask is that there is a difference finding a "dual" purpose pad between the two...

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

I might try out the Porterfield R4S w/ Centric rotors slotted by RX7store... Anyone have pretty good recent experience w/ the R4S pads? I will be mainly daily driving the car with maybe one or two track days, but then again, can't I just use a more agressive compound for track days? I have read that in that gas, some people use HPS for street driving and HP+ for track days.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

The Porterfields appear to have pretty decent ratings; however, the general consensus that I've seen from reviews is that they are harsh on rotors.

If you're looking to swap pads back and forth between track and street, Mahjik seems to be a big fan of the Bonez brakes on the street, and I've personally had good experience with the EBC reds(street only). My overall view from reading hundreds of posts on the Hawks is that they are extremely dusty, and the HPS pads don't even seem to have as much stopping power as other street pads. I would personally never buy them. I recently bought a set of EBC Bluestuffs, but have opted to go with the (exorbitantly priced)Endless MX72s. So I have a set of Bluestuffs if you're interested

I just wanted to note that my opinions on the Hawk pads are solely from hours of reading mixed reviews, no actual personal experience.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Kyle, my experience was with the RB BBK, but my brother (who has stock brakes) runs his FD with the ME20/22s, which are one step up the ladder. We've both road raced the car on the track and driven it on the street and it's more of the same, just more aggressive.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I have to admit that I'm skeptical on the "dual purpose" pads for stock brakes. In my experience, you can make it work but somewhere there is a sacrifice. I have been driving around public streets with my track pads which do work, but they don't brake a well cold so I have to leave some extra room than I would with a more street oriented pad. Similar, I can't run on rcomps on the track with a non-dedicated track pad as I'll cook them. I can get by with a less sticky tire with a more street oriented pad.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

So I ended up ordering EBC Redstuff w/Power Slot (non cryo) Rotors and Russell brake lines. I wanted the Bones that Kyle was talking about, but I didn't wanna pay for it right now. Kind of strapped on cash flow!!!

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

I looked into the ME22s, and I'm going to go with them. They're metallic rather than ceramic, and the reviews I've read pertaining to the rotors I purchased(EBC GD) suggest that the rotors may warp when using ceramic pads(MX72).

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

ME22 might be a bit overkill for what you're doing with the car..... MX72 is more suitable. ME22 'can' squeal on the street as it's a more track-oriented pad. Just FYI.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

Great read, thank you! Cleared up a lot of misconceptions that I previously had; it should have been posted as the first response to this thread.

What I took from it(correct me if I'm wrong) is that pad material and break-in were the culprits of the "warped" rotors.

Rich, if you're steering me in the direction of the MX72s, that's what I'll go with.

Ok, I'll stop posting impulse buy statements

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Basically that the "warped" feeling was uneven deposits of pad material. Now the reasonings behind that can differ but this is one of the reasons it's suggested to change rotors when changing brake pad types. The the new pad is not as harsh as the previous pad, it will not be effective in removing the old pad transfer layer and establishing its own; thus reducing it's braking ability.