One thing that I cannot find on this great website is information on the alignment.

What are the stock specs?

I had my car aligned a while back before my wreck and noticed that the rear camber looked way too great. I think this assisted my snap oversteer.

Is there any protocol for aligment changes in relation to wheel offset?

Are there any ideal alignment setups for different events...? If lots of high speed corning, more camber if so what are the stock specs and how much to increase?

 

try google :P
copy and paste:
FRONT:
total toe-in mm (in) 1 +- 4 (0.04 +- 0.16)
max steering angle deg inner 36 +-2
outer 32 +- 2
Camber angle 0 deg 6' +- 1 deg (1deg 30' max diff left-right)
Caster angle 6deg40' (1 deg30' difff left-right)
Steering axis inclin. 14deg5'

REAR:
total toe-in 2+-4 (0.08 +- 0.16)
Camber angle -1deg13' +- 1 deg (1deg30' diff left-right)
Thrust angle 0deg +- 0.8 deg

as for a more aggressive alignment, you typically want
more negative camber
less toe in front
same or more toe in rear
same or more caster front

i'm sure a fd guru will suggest a more specific alignment for you

 

Check the Pettit Racing Long Track specs:

http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_information.htm

 

awesome thanks!

 

Conceptually speaking:

Toe affects how stable the car is in a straight line and how readily it will dart in a different direction. Toe out is darty, which is why autocrossers like it. Toe in is more stable at high speed and under very heavy braking, which is why for track use and street use toe in is preferred. Most people will not use zero toe, since it tends to be floaty at high speed - that little bit of rolling scrub caused by toe in/out helps high speed stability.

Camber is the other major setting. For drag you want lower camber to get the rear wheels planted as squarely as possible. For track or autocross use you want some negative camber - the amount depends on how stiff your suspension/rollbars are, and how grippy your tires are. I don't think offset plays a big role, except that it may change things. Basically, you put enough camber in the setup to negate the amount body roll the car sees when cornering, giving the rear outside tire the most grip. Too much camber affects your braking and straight line grip, so there is a tradeoff here.

For stockish setups on street tires, I think the Pettit long track specs make the most sense. On a street car it's better to err on the side of too little camber rather than too much.

Dave

 

great info

 

In my opinion, the Pettit "long track" setting are to aggressive for a strictly street driven car. The only thing you will notice is increased tire wear. Stick with the OEM settings, unless you track or autox the car. The OEM setting are in the FSM.

Paul

 

I agree 100% with this. We recently had my dad's R1 on jack stands for a ported motor install, and I noticed that there was pronounced wear on the inner half of all four of his S03 tires, they were essentially junk. This after less than 10k miles of use with the Pettit long track alignment specs.

 

alignment settings such as camber and caster cannot be changed on a stock suspension. you will need after market parts to adjust the camber. also, unless you plan on using the car strictly for track/drag/drift driving, i suggest you do not stray too far from OEM settings as your wallet will suffer from premature tire wear.
i do alignments all day and i see people get very upset over tires that need to be replaced after 10k miles when they are warrantied for 45k miles. I'm not telling yo not to do it but be careful and sure of what you are going to do...

 

I assume Monsterbox is talking about his FD, and camber and caster are both adjustable using the stock eccentric bolts. I've never owned an FC, but I can't imagine them being different.

There are few street cars that have the adjustability of RX-7s.

 

Can you explain this?

 

He's talking about earlier RX-7's, not the FD.