Affects in running negative camber
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Affects in running negative camber
I'm currently have a set of CCW 18X10.5 with 295/30/18 at the rear and the rims seem to stick out a little bit. I wonder that I can run negative camber to help it tuck back into the wheel well. Are there any negative effects on the performance and the thread wear issues by doing so??
Camber won't put the wheel further back into the wheel well. What is WILL do though is put the top of the wheel more inboard. This will help handling, but the botom of the wheel will be pushed out think of it as this...
/ Negative Camber
\ Positive Camber
See that neither of them moves further to the left or right, it just tilts the wheel a certain direction. As far as tire wear goes, depending on how much negative camber you dial in that will change the effect. You could have nearly nil effect on the tires w/little negative camber added or you could have dramatic wear in the inside of the tire if you add too much (vice versa for positive camber).
/ Negative Camber
\ Positive Camber
See that neither of them moves further to the left or right, it just tilts the wheel a certain direction. As far as tire wear goes, depending on how much negative camber you dial in that will change the effect. You could have nearly nil effect on the tires w/little negative camber added or you could have dramatic wear in the inside of the tire if you add too much (vice versa for positive camber).
Negative camber will tuck the top of the tire into the wheel well slightly since the tire is now in fact leaning. A tire that wide with that low a profile however is going to wear very quickly if street driven with much negative camber in it.
The inner tread will wear very fast, varying on the degree of negative camber. If you run fairly soft rubber, you will be hard pressed to get 10,000 miles out of them. You may be able to get by with a non-directional tire and flop sides as the inner tread gets thin.
Foko did some pyrometer work on his car recently and determined that -0.5 degrees was a good setting in back. I was surprised it was that low (rather than -1 or something). I think I would try -0.5 if I were you, but I would guess you are already close to that (and maybe already running more neg camber).
Running more neg camber than you need will wear the inside of the tires and reduce traction under all circumstances (cornering, accelerating, braking). I don't think the traction loss will be extreme enough to really upset things, especially on the street, but the tire wear might be annoying. If it really bothers you (or your local constubliary) that they stick out, it might still be worth running the neg camber you need to tuck them under. We all have to make our own choices, and I wouldn't fault you for making such a decision as long as you have considered the effects.
-Max
Running more neg camber than you need will wear the inside of the tires and reduce traction under all circumstances (cornering, accelerating, braking). I don't think the traction loss will be extreme enough to really upset things, especially on the street, but the tire wear might be annoying. If it really bothers you (or your local constubliary) that they stick out, it might still be worth running the neg camber you need to tuck them under. We all have to make our own choices, and I wouldn't fault you for making such a decision as long as you have considered the effects.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; Feb 24, 2003 at 03:13 PM.
Originally posted by maxcooper
Foko did some pyrometer work on his car recently and determined that -0.5 degrees was a good setting in back.
Foko did some pyrometer work on his car recently and determined that -0.5 degrees was a good setting in back.
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Originally posted by DamonB
Pyros don't lie. However, how much camber to run varies wildly between tire compound, tire size, ride height and sway bar size. The pyro says it's right for Foko's car which is great, that doesn't mean it translates to everyone else. I do find I don't need near as much negative in the rear as I do in the front though.
Pyros don't lie. However, how much camber to run varies wildly between tire compound, tire size, ride height and sway bar size. The pyro says it's right for Foko's car which is great, that doesn't mean it translates to everyone else. I do find I don't need near as much negative in the rear as I do in the front though.
you obviously need to start somewhere, but the pyrometer is the only way to really get it right for your particular setup.
good luck,
fabian
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Originally posted by Cheers!
get some fender flares... since you already have CCW and a FD, which are both expensive items.. i would imagine you could afford a body shop to put on a set of fender flares for you
get some fender flares... since you already have CCW and a FD, which are both expensive items.. i would imagine you could afford a body shop to put on a set of fender flares for you
for camber i got -1.5 in rear and 2.2 in front.
what i have is tokico adjustable and eibach spring.
We determine the camber from the tire wear.
The tire was new when I took it autocross. Came back for alignment, and determine that on turns my contact patch is slightly offset thus needing more camber to correct it.
reza
what i have is tokico adjustable and eibach spring.
We determine the camber from the tire wear.
The tire was new when I took it autocross. Came back for alignment, and determine that on turns my contact patch is slightly offset thus needing more camber to correct it.
reza
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GORACER, according to the pic ture, I assume that your rim stick out pass the stock fender. Did you cut it out before you put that rear flares on or you leave it as is? What rim and tire size is it? and did you lower your car?
Reason I'm asking because that how my rim look now. It's does not rub now but I"m not sure if it will if I put the Eibach spring in.
Reason I'm asking because that how my rim look now. It's does not rub now but I"m not sure if it will if I put the Eibach spring in.
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