Advice on wheel fitment with RE Amemiya GT-AD fender kit
05-30-13, 09:35 AM
#26
imitek
Thread Starter
my plan was to run 285 30 18 yokohama ad08 on rear 10.5 +15
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
you're question could be answered a number of different ways depending on your:
ride height
camber
tire size
tire brand
and your ability to "fit" wheels.
that blue FD i posted is running 18x10+36 up front and 18x10+20 in the rear on stock fenders. I believe he probably rolled the rears (folded the lip in), and he's running, (if i remember correctly, it's been a while) advan ad08 255/35/18 all the way around.
the short answer to your question is, yes you should be able to fit those wheels. i certainly plan to go at least that big.
ride height
camber
tire size
tire brand
and your ability to "fit" wheels.
that blue FD i posted is running 18x10+36 up front and 18x10+20 in the rear on stock fenders. I believe he probably rolled the rears (folded the lip in), and he's running, (if i remember correctly, it's been a while) advan ad08 255/35/18 all the way around.
the short answer to your question is, yes you should be able to fit those wheels. i certainly plan to go at least that big.
05-30-13, 10:43 AM
#28
I think you'll be fine with those wheel sizes and tire sizes.
That car is not mine, it's John's:
http://rotary car club.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=14041&page=2
He's running about -1.9 degrees of camber in the back and about -1.8 degrees of camber in the front. his ride height is as seen in pictures.
I assume you have some car friends. I'd find someone with a wheel/tire close to the size you want to run, and test fit it yourself and use that as a starting point.
That car is not mine, it's John's:
http://rotary car club.com/rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=14041&page=2
He's running about -1.9 degrees of camber in the back and about -1.8 degrees of camber in the front. his ride height is as seen in pictures.
I assume you have some car friends. I'd find someone with a wheel/tire close to the size you want to run, and test fit it yourself and use that as a starting point.
05-30-13, 11:40 AM
#29
this is terrible info. i don't think you fully understand what you're talking about.
My statement contained nothing but facts, I must not have written clearly enough for you to understand.
I will post the links to a fitment calculator to illustrate my points.
Here you see the 18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 that I have F/R on stock fenders with the front fender lip rolled under in Green.
In Orange you see the 18x11 +15 with 295 that you would have if you put a +30 fender on the car and brought the 18x11 +45 flush to the fender with a +30mm spacer.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
Here you have the 18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 that I have F/R on stock fenders with front fender lip rolled under in Green again and the 18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 in Orange.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
As you can see, it is 30mm further out on the fender side and goes in to where the known max fitment on stock trailing arm is.
Furthermore, just above my post was a post with a picture of the widebody with 18x12 +30 wheels (and too wide of tires).
How can these facts be refuted?
My statement contained nothing but facts, I must not have written clearly enough for you to understand.
I will post the links to a fitment calculator to illustrate my points.
Here you see the 18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 that I have F/R on stock fenders with the front fender lip rolled under in Green.
In Orange you see the 18x11 +15 with 295 that you would have if you put a +30 fender on the car and brought the 18x11 +45 flush to the fender with a +30mm spacer.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
Here you have the 18x11 +45 with 295/30-18 that I have F/R on stock fenders with front fender lip rolled under in Green again and the 18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 in Orange.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
As you can see, it is 30mm further out on the fender side and goes in to where the known max fitment on stock trailing arm is.
Furthermore, just above my post was a post with a picture of the widebody with 18x12 +30 wheels (and too wide of tires).
How can these facts be refuted?
05-30-13, 11:59 AM
#30
Just to keep everyone grounded in this conversation.
A wider tire gives you better lateral grip, but it is at the cost of straight line grip.
a skinnier tire will have more longitudinal grip but sacrifice lateral grip.
The force on the wheels exerted by the car is the same, so there are only two functions we can manipulate to increase grip. tire pressure, and chemical adhesion (tire choice).
you can obviously run lower pressures on smaller diameter wheels for better straight line grip. So those running 18" wheels with really wide tires is actually sacrificing straight line grip. Just wanted to make sure people know that.
Why don't we see drag tires that are skinny anymore then?
Your thinking was exactly what the engineers believed in the '60s by running the mathematical calculations, but soon the drag cars were exceeding the maximum calculated acceleration possible based on knowledge of physics at the time due to more traction than they calculated for.
The tire contact patch surface interlocks with irregularities in the pavement surface for more traction and this is why the wider tires are better for straight line traction as well- there is more surface area for this mechanical adhesion.
I am not saying the widest tire available on a given car will always be the fastest.
Skinnier tires can be lighter which will help with acceleration and your springs keeping the tire on the ground.
Skinnier tires can come up to temperature faster given the same tread compound.
Skinnier tires can have more easy/consistent handling (less forces fed back into steering and suspension from scrub or camber thrust for instance).
Skinnier tires will be better in standing water, snow and gravel where your contact patch has to penetrate to the road surface.
A wider tire gives you better lateral grip, but it is at the cost of straight line grip.
a skinnier tire will have more longitudinal grip but sacrifice lateral grip.
The force on the wheels exerted by the car is the same, so there are only two functions we can manipulate to increase grip. tire pressure, and chemical adhesion (tire choice).
you can obviously run lower pressures on smaller diameter wheels for better straight line grip. So those running 18" wheels with really wide tires is actually sacrificing straight line grip. Just wanted to make sure people know that.
Why don't we see drag tires that are skinny anymore then?
Your thinking was exactly what the engineers believed in the '60s by running the mathematical calculations, but soon the drag cars were exceeding the maximum calculated acceleration possible based on knowledge of physics at the time due to more traction than they calculated for.
The tire contact patch surface interlocks with irregularities in the pavement surface for more traction and this is why the wider tires are better for straight line traction as well- there is more surface area for this mechanical adhesion.
I am not saying the widest tire available on a given car will always be the fastest.
Skinnier tires can be lighter which will help with acceleration and your springs keeping the tire on the ground.
Skinnier tires can come up to temperature faster given the same tread compound.
Skinnier tires can have more easy/consistent handling (less forces fed back into steering and suspension from scrub or camber thrust for instance).
Skinnier tires will be better in standing water, snow and gravel where your contact patch has to penetrate to the road surface.
05-30-13, 12:09 PM
#31
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Just to keep everyone grounded in this conversation.
A wider tire gives you better lateral grip, but it is at the cost of straight line grip.
a skinnier tire will have more longitudinal grip but sacrifice lateral grip.
The force on the wheels exerted by the car is the same, so there are only two functions we can manipulate to increase grip. tire pressure, and chemical adhesion (tire choice).
you can obviously run lower pressures on smaller diameter wheels for better straight line grip. So those running 18" wheels with really wide tires is actually sacrificing straight line grip. Just wanted to make sure people know that.
Why don't we see drag tires that are skinny anymore then?
Your thinking was exactly what the engineers believed in the '60s by running the mathematical calculations, but soon the drag cars were exceeding the maximum calculated acceleration possible based on knowledge of physics at the time due to more traction than they calculated for.
The tire contact patch surface interlocks with irregularities in the pavement surface for more traction and this is why the wider tires are better for straight line traction as well- there is more surface area for this mechanical adhesion.
I am not saying the widest tire available on a given car will always be the fastest.
Skinnier tires can be lighter which will help with acceleration and your springs keeping the tire on the ground.
Skinnier tires can come up to temperature faster given the same tread compound.
Skinnier tires can have more easy/consistent handling (less forces fed back into steering and suspension from scrub or camber thrust for instance).
Skinnier tires will be better in standing water, snow and gravel where your contact patch has to penetrate to the road surface.
A wider tire gives you better lateral grip, but it is at the cost of straight line grip.
a skinnier tire will have more longitudinal grip but sacrifice lateral grip.
The force on the wheels exerted by the car is the same, so there are only two functions we can manipulate to increase grip. tire pressure, and chemical adhesion (tire choice).
you can obviously run lower pressures on smaller diameter wheels for better straight line grip. So those running 18" wheels with really wide tires is actually sacrificing straight line grip. Just wanted to make sure people know that.
Why don't we see drag tires that are skinny anymore then?
Your thinking was exactly what the engineers believed in the '60s by running the mathematical calculations, but soon the drag cars were exceeding the maximum calculated acceleration possible based on knowledge of physics at the time due to more traction than they calculated for.
The tire contact patch surface interlocks with irregularities in the pavement surface for more traction and this is why the wider tires are better for straight line traction as well- there is more surface area for this mechanical adhesion.
I am not saying the widest tire available on a given car will always be the fastest.
Skinnier tires can be lighter which will help with acceleration and your springs keeping the tire on the ground.
Skinnier tires can come up to temperature faster given the same tread compound.
Skinnier tires can have more easy/consistent handling (less forces fed back into steering and suspension from scrub or camber thrust for instance).
Skinnier tires will be better in standing water, snow and gravel where your contact patch has to penetrate to the road surface.
I am not making a blanket statement that skinnier tires have more grip regardless of some factors. All I am saying is going the widest possible tire might not maximize your forward/backward (accelerate/decelerate) direction. The contact patch looks different than one that is a little skinnier.
So I am not making the statement that a 215 width tire will have more grip than a 315 width tire straight forward, I am unsure if it does or does not, but I think people view that that 315 width tire automatically gives you more straight forward grip.
I see lots of people write this on the forums that they need wider tires for drag racing.
If anything they need to lose the 18" wheels and go down to 16 or 15's if they fit wheels and drop pressure.
18's work great for lateral movements and wide tires, which aren't as good for straight line racing since you can't drop the pressures as low as a 16" wheel on a really soft compound tire.
05-30-13, 12:44 PM
#32
Absolutely, in drag racing the taller sidewall especially at lower tire pressures will maximize the contact patch and thus the mechanical adhesion of the tire for drag racing.
That taller/softer sidewall will also help absorb variations in torque so you do not shock the contact patch past the point of adhesion.
The smaller wheel should also be lighter and have drag tires available for it.
Though, I found my big heavy 18x10.5 265/30-18 140 UTQG auto-x fitment provided very consistent launches on my FD.
When I had my FCs super light auto-x fitment of 16x8 225/50-16 140 UTQG on the FD it would run faster times IF I got the launch just right, but most the time it had a worse 60ft time and thus slower in the 1/4 than with the 18s.
I guess I am saying there is always a balance.
That taller/softer sidewall will also help absorb variations in torque so you do not shock the contact patch past the point of adhesion.
The smaller wheel should also be lighter and have drag tires available for it.
Though, I found my big heavy 18x10.5 265/30-18 140 UTQG auto-x fitment provided very consistent launches on my FD.
When I had my FCs super light auto-x fitment of 16x8 225/50-16 140 UTQG on the FD it would run faster times IF I got the launch just right, but most the time it had a worse 60ft time and thus slower in the 1/4 than with the 18s.
I guess I am saying there is always a balance.
05-30-13, 12:56 PM
#33
my plan was to run 285 30 18 yokohama ad08 on rear 10.5 +15
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
This would be well clear of any inner arms or suspension.
You would probably end up running an additional +20mm to +30mm spacer on the front wheels to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders and an additional +5mm spacer on the rear to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders.
That would be a safe way to approach an unknown fitment.
It would be better to make it a known fitment.
Finish the bodywork so you know exactly how much +mm over stock you have on the fenders, decide on what alignment you will run and then calculate your rim width and offset.
Or find an owner with the kit you have that looks good to you, quiz them if their tire has ever hit the fender and if not copy their wheel/tire size/offset and alignment.
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
This would be well clear of any inner arms or suspension.
You would probably end up running an additional +20mm to +30mm spacer on the front wheels to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders and an additional +5mm spacer on the rear to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders.
That would be a safe way to approach an unknown fitment.
It would be better to make it a known fitment.
Finish the bodywork so you know exactly how much +mm over stock you have on the fenders, decide on what alignment you will run and then calculate your rim width and offset.
Or find an owner with the kit you have that looks good to you, quiz them if their tire has ever hit the fender and if not copy their wheel/tire size/offset and alignment.
05-30-13, 02:32 PM
#34
your wheel size (diameter and width), your wheel offset, your ride height, and your alignment ALL determine how wide of a tire you can fit. your offset doesn't play any bigger roll than your wheel width, they are all just variables in an equation that measure how much clearance you're going to have between your tire and your fender.
saying something like "+45 offset seems to be the magic number" is proof that you don't seem to grasp the full concept.
anyway, I thought this was a wheel/tire fitment thread, not nerding out on lateral and longitudinal traction debate that is obviously going to catch traction with the group we have here...
05-30-13, 03:27 PM
#35
offset does NOT determine how wide of a tire you can fit.
Offset determines how wide of a tire you can fit.
I don't quite understand how this fact upsets you.
As you say, offset is the measurement of how far from the center of a wheel the hub mounting surface is.
This means offset is what centers your tire between your suspension/body components on the inboard side (inner limit) and your fenders (outer limit).
Example, if you want to run a 295/30-18 on a stock fender FD you could muffin top it on an 18x8.5 +45 up to a 18x11 +45 and it will clear suspension/unibody and fenders front and rear. (yes, stock class RX-8 racer really do muffin top 285s on stock 8" rim widths...)
If you were to try less offset the tire would hit the fenders, more and the tire (or wheel if running 11" width) would hit the trailing arm, unibody and shock.
saying something like "+45 offset seems to be the magic number" is proof that you don't seem to grasp the full concept.
+45 offset seems to be the magic number on stock fenders.
Another fact that has made you upset? When racers try fitting the widest tire on stock body FD front and rear that +45 offset comes up again and again.
Alignment (specifically negative camber and rear toe in) does affect the optimal offset you will need for maximum tire width.
Wheel width/diameter and ride height do not affect the maximum tire width except in the most extreme examples of fitment.
Like sticking the front strut coilover collar at the root of the wheel inner lip and the sidewall bulge in my FC.
Or trying to run a 18x12 on a stock body FD where you are forced to use the wrong offset (+30) to avoid the wheel hitting the suspension and so you limit your maximum tire width.
The FD is relatively quirk free on fitment. Its pretty much just the bulge in the unibody at the front of the rear wheel wells and the fact that coilovers and aftermarket trailing arms can give you a little more room in the rear.
So, yes. Its pretty easy to say that +45 offset seems to be the magic number to fitting the widest tire possible on a stock body FD.
Offset determines how wide of a tire you can fit.
I don't quite understand how this fact upsets you.
As you say, offset is the measurement of how far from the center of a wheel the hub mounting surface is.
This means offset is what centers your tire between your suspension/body components on the inboard side (inner limit) and your fenders (outer limit).
Example, if you want to run a 295/30-18 on a stock fender FD you could muffin top it on an 18x8.5 +45 up to a 18x11 +45 and it will clear suspension/unibody and fenders front and rear. (yes, stock class RX-8 racer really do muffin top 285s on stock 8" rim widths...)
If you were to try less offset the tire would hit the fenders, more and the tire (or wheel if running 11" width) would hit the trailing arm, unibody and shock.
saying something like "+45 offset seems to be the magic number" is proof that you don't seem to grasp the full concept.
+45 offset seems to be the magic number on stock fenders.
Another fact that has made you upset? When racers try fitting the widest tire on stock body FD front and rear that +45 offset comes up again and again.
Alignment (specifically negative camber and rear toe in) does affect the optimal offset you will need for maximum tire width.
Wheel width/diameter and ride height do not affect the maximum tire width except in the most extreme examples of fitment.
Like sticking the front strut coilover collar at the root of the wheel inner lip and the sidewall bulge in my FC.
Or trying to run a 18x12 on a stock body FD where you are forced to use the wrong offset (+30) to avoid the wheel hitting the suspension and so you limit your maximum tire width.
The FD is relatively quirk free on fitment. Its pretty much just the bulge in the unibody at the front of the rear wheel wells and the fact that coilovers and aftermarket trailing arms can give you a little more room in the rear.
So, yes. Its pretty easy to say that +45 offset seems to be the magic number to fitting the widest tire possible on a stock body FD.
05-30-13, 03:35 PM
#36
imitek
Thread Starter
my plan was to run 285 30 18 yokohama ad08 on rear 10.5 +15
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
This would be well clear of any inner arms or suspension.
You would probably end up running an additional +20mm to +30mm spacer on the front wheels to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders and an additional +5mm spacer on the rear to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders.
That would be a safe way to approach an unknown fitment.
It would be better to make it a known fitment.
Finish the bodywork so you know exactly how much +mm over stock you have on the fenders, decide on what alignment you will run and then calculate your rim width and offset.
Or find an owner with the kit you have that looks good to you, quiz them if their tire has ever hit the fender and if not copy their wheel/tire size/offset and alignment.
and 255/35/18 on 10 +38 front yokohama ad08
and would this set up hit the inner arms or suspension or rub any where ?
thanks
This would be well clear of any inner arms or suspension.
You would probably end up running an additional +20mm to +30mm spacer on the front wheels to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders and an additional +5mm spacer on the rear to flush them up with the +30mm widefenders.
That would be a safe way to approach an unknown fitment.
It would be better to make it a known fitment.
Finish the bodywork so you know exactly how much +mm over stock you have on the fenders, decide on what alignment you will run and then calculate your rim width and offset.
Or find an owner with the kit you have that looks good to you, quiz them if their tire has ever hit the fender and if not copy their wheel/tire size/offset and alignment.
thanks m8 that is everything i wanted to no and thanks to every one els also for your valued reply's i will post pics when my wheels come threw
05-30-13, 05:12 PM
#37
offset does NOT determine how wide of a tire you can fit.
Offset determines how wide of a tire you can fit.
I don't quite understand how this fact upsets you.
As you say, offset is the measurement of how far from the center of a wheel the hub mounting surface is.
This means offset is what centers your tire between your suspension/body components on the inboard side (inner limit) and your fenders (outer limit).
Example, if you want to run a 295/30-18 on a stock fender FD you could muffin top it on an 18x8.5 +45 up to a 18x11 +45 and it will clear suspension/unibody and fenders front and rear. (yes, stock class RX-8 racer really do muffin top 285s on stock 8" rim widths...)
If you were to try less offset the tire would hit the fenders, more and the tire (or wheel if running 11" width) would hit the trailing arm, unibody and shock.
saying something like "+45 offset seems to be the magic number" is proof that you don't seem to grasp the full concept.
+45 offset seems to be the magic number on stock fenders.
Another fact that has made you upset? When racers try fitting the widest tire on stock body FD front and rear that +45 offset comes up again and again.
Alignment (specifically negative camber and rear toe in) does affect the optimal offset you will need for maximum tire width.
Wheel width/diameter and ride height do not affect the maximum tire width except in the most extreme examples of fitment.
Like sticking the front strut coilover collar at the root of the wheel inner lip and the sidewall bulge in my FC.
Or trying to run a 18x12 on a stock body FD where you are forced to use the wrong offset (+30) to avoid the wheel hitting the suspension and so you limit your maximum tire width.
The FD is relatively quirk free on fitment. Its pretty much just the bulge in the unibody at the front of the rear wheel wells and the fact that coilovers and aftermarket trailing arms can give you a little more room in the rear.
So, yes. Its pretty easy to say that +45 offset seems to be the magic number to fitting the widest tire possible on a stock body FD.
Offset determines how wide of a tire you can fit.
I don't quite understand how this fact upsets you.
As you say, offset is the measurement of how far from the center of a wheel the hub mounting surface is.
This means offset is what centers your tire between your suspension/body components on the inboard side (inner limit) and your fenders (outer limit).
Example, if you want to run a 295/30-18 on a stock fender FD you could muffin top it on an 18x8.5 +45 up to a 18x11 +45 and it will clear suspension/unibody and fenders front and rear. (yes, stock class RX-8 racer really do muffin top 285s on stock 8" rim widths...)
If you were to try less offset the tire would hit the fenders, more and the tire (or wheel if running 11" width) would hit the trailing arm, unibody and shock.
saying something like "+45 offset seems to be the magic number" is proof that you don't seem to grasp the full concept.
+45 offset seems to be the magic number on stock fenders.
Another fact that has made you upset? When racers try fitting the widest tire on stock body FD front and rear that +45 offset comes up again and again.
Alignment (specifically negative camber and rear toe in) does affect the optimal offset you will need for maximum tire width.
Wheel width/diameter and ride height do not affect the maximum tire width except in the most extreme examples of fitment.
Like sticking the front strut coilover collar at the root of the wheel inner lip and the sidewall bulge in my FC.
Or trying to run a 18x12 on a stock body FD where you are forced to use the wrong offset (+30) to avoid the wheel hitting the suspension and so you limit your maximum tire width.
The FD is relatively quirk free on fitment. Its pretty much just the bulge in the unibody at the front of the rear wheel wells and the fact that coilovers and aftermarket trailing arms can give you a little more room in the rear.
So, yes. Its pretty easy to say that +45 offset seems to be the magic number to fitting the widest tire possible on a stock body FD.
you are using offset to determine the maximum size tire you can fit under each wheel well, and saying that +45 seems to be the center point on FDs, which would allow for the maximum size tire. it took me a couple reads, but I follow you now.
I would hope, he would prefer to have something that looks half-way decent. ie, not having sunk wheels on a widebody FD. I'm not saying he needs to go all stancenation or anything. But in order for him to determine what size wheels/tires he needs, the only thing he's really going to need to be concerned about is the outside of the wheel/tire and his fender (not inside clearance).
So from my point of view, saying that +45 is the magic number, is like saying, sure 18x9, 18x10, 18x12, they'll all fit fine as long as the offset is +45. You're right, they'll FIT, if that's all he cares about. I assume he wants something that doesn't look like ****, and in his case, an 18x10.5 +45 wheel, in the rear, with his wide fenders, would, definitely.
and nobody's upset, fyi...
imitek: sounds like you'll be just fine with those sizes. looking forward to pics.
05-30-13, 05:53 PM
#38
I agree he should have a fitment that looks awesome and not all sunken in.
That is how I arrived at my recommendation for 18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 front and rear for a +30 wide body at the bottom of that initial post.
That puts the wheel lip at the edge of the fender with a slight stretch on the sidewall to avoid the fender lip on compression, aid in turn in response and look bad ***.
I understand how you would think a +30 or +45 would look weak when you are used to looking at it on 9" or 10" wide wheels.
18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 would be visually identical to 18x10 +4 with a 265/35-18.
That is how I arrived at my recommendation for 18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 front and rear for a +30 wide body at the bottom of that initial post.
That puts the wheel lip at the edge of the fender with a slight stretch on the sidewall to avoid the fender lip on compression, aid in turn in response and look bad ***.
I understand how you would think a +30 or +45 would look weak when you are used to looking at it on 9" or 10" wide wheels.
18x12 +30 with 315/30-18 would be visually identical to 18x10 +4 with a 265/35-18.
05-30-13, 07:25 PM
#39
i guess i actually lost track of the original question, which was what is the widest wheel he can fit.
blue tii, we're both on the same page now, apologies on my part.
i guess i'm curious to know exactly how much wider the ADGT fenders are front and rear.
blue tii, we're both on the same page now, apologies on my part.
i guess i'm curious to know exactly how much wider the ADGT fenders are front and rear.
05-31-13, 11:45 AM
#40
I found the thread the 18x12 +30 on the RE-AD widebody wutangben posted the pics of.
Turns out that was 315/30-18 on the 18x12 +30 in the rear, so I would recommend the same 18x12 +30 wheel but with a 295/30-18.
The 295 would keep you from having to run max negative rear camber and have more of a Japanese tuner look with the stretch instead of a 'merican meaty tire look.
His front was 18x10 +43 with 20mm spacer and 245 tire. That stretch looked great to me (should be same as 18x12 with 295) and it fit with little negative camber.
If you ran 18x11 +35 with 265/30-18 it would have the same fitment and stretch to the outside, but go inboard a safe amount.
My recomendation-
1)
18x12 +30 295/30-18 rear with 18x11 +35 265/35-18 in front without having to run much negative camber (good tire wear on the street).
2)
18x12 +30 with 295/30-18 front and rear with front camber maxed out (good tire wear on the track).
1) would look like this in front
and this in rear but with same stretch as front
Turns out that was 315/30-18 on the 18x12 +30 in the rear, so I would recommend the same 18x12 +30 wheel but with a 295/30-18.
The 295 would keep you from having to run max negative rear camber and have more of a Japanese tuner look with the stretch instead of a 'merican meaty tire look.
His front was 18x10 +43 with 20mm spacer and 245 tire. That stretch looked great to me (should be same as 18x12 with 295) and it fit with little negative camber.
If you ran 18x11 +35 with 265/30-18 it would have the same fitment and stretch to the outside, but go inboard a safe amount.
My recomendation-
1)
18x12 +30 295/30-18 rear with 18x11 +35 265/35-18 in front without having to run much negative camber (good tire wear on the street).
2)
18x12 +30 with 295/30-18 front and rear with front camber maxed out (good tire wear on the track).
1) would look like this in front
and this in rear but with same stretch as front
07-22-13, 11:28 AM
#41
imitek
Thread Starter
hey guys enkei is telling me that the rpf1 18x 10.5" et15 wide on rear and 18x 10" et38 on front is to wide and they dont recommend it and its special order only,they are ready to ship awaiting my reply so if any one can give me a 100% sure that it will be fine i will send them the email
07-22-13, 01:29 PM
#42
imitek
Thread Starter
spoke to them they said its ok after telling them you guys are running 12" wide on same kit
they saying its a no return item
so hopefully all is well and wheels will be here by next week
also was going to buy of rashe in the US but he never got back to me about parts so i ordered from a uk branch
they saying its a no return item
so hopefully all is well and wheels will be here by next week
also was going to buy of rashe in the US but he never got back to me about parts so i ordered from a uk branch
07-22-13, 02:16 PM
#43
Those sizes should work out well.
The 18x10.5 +15 265/35-18 will look just like the 18x12 +30 295/30-18 I recommended out back.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10 +38 245/35-18 with a +15mm spacer will look just like the 18x11 +35 265/35-18 I recommended for the front on a street set up without too much camber.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10.5 +15 265/35-18 will look just like the 18x12 +30 295/30-18 I recommended out back.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10 +38 245/35-18 with a +15mm spacer will look just like the 18x11 +35 265/35-18 I recommended for the front on a street set up without too much camber.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
07-22-13, 05:55 PM
#44
imitek
Thread Starter
Those sizes should work out well.
The 18x10.5 +15 265/35-18 will look just like the 18x12 +30 295/30-18 I recommended out back.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10 +38 245/35-18 with a +15mm spacer will look just like the 18x11 +35 265/35-18 I recommended for the front on a street set up without too much camber.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10.5 +15 265/35-18 will look just like the 18x12 +30 295/30-18 I recommended out back.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
The 18x10 +38 245/35-18 with a +15mm spacer will look just like the 18x11 +35 265/35-18 I recommended for the front on a street set up without too much camber.
Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator
08-03-13, 03:41 PM
#45
imitek
Thread Starter
i got the wheels threw last week and is very tight but in a good way
i put the rim on to get a good idea of what tyre to get as you guys said seems like 265 would be ideal for rear and 255 for front
i put the rim on to get a good idea of what tyre to get as you guys said seems like 265 would be ideal for rear and 255 for front
