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To ABS or not To ABS ?? FD question

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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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To ABS or not To ABS ?? FD question

Now I know the RX-7 had good brakes it said it on the review! ..

I bought a shell and after being about 4 years driving cars without ABS I was a little happy about not having to care about flat spotting my tires on the track anymore!

but since I bought a shell , and got ripped off to say the least .. I have the ABS pump but no ABS ECU .. or anything.. I did a quick search and saw the ABS ECU go for 1k .. right now I'm debating weather its even worth it ..

I know some people take it off for racing ..

I got used to threshold braking thats not the problem .. in my last car it was a miata . and they had messed up brake bias which made the fronts lock up wayy before the rears ..

so if I took off the ABS would I have similar issues? or are this car's brakes balanced well enough without ABS?

I'm looking performance wise.. will the car stop more effeciently with / or without ABS .. driver error not included
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 07:33 AM
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The ABS computers shouldn't cost anywhere near that used. Shoot Fritz Flynn a PM about the parts you need. I'm sure he has all of that. Stock bias without ABS is off quite a bit IMO. As someone who has fought the good fight and has a tilton pedal box with dual brake master cylinders, I'd stay ABS with the stock system if possible.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 10:45 AM
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I certainly don't have 1% of Brent's track experience but I will agree that the ABS components you are looking for should not run more than $75-$100 used. If Fritz doesn't have them, PM me.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Screw ABS... I have always been a big fan of running a car without it. But, its comes down to what YOU want and prefer.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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I removed my ABS, i personally do not like it.. it just all depends on you and what you are most comfortable with...
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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i sell the abs delete kits
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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Thanks for all the comments I'm confident in my braking abilities haha .. if its tomuch of a hassle I will just hit alex up on his offer ,

Thanks again .
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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no abs in your case is the way to go.. trick here is gettin the correct bias..
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by brent dalton
the abs computers shouldn't cost anywhere near that used. Shoot fritz flynn a pm about the parts you need. I'm sure he has all of that. Stock bias without abs is off quite a bit imo. As someone who has fought the good fight and has a tilton pedal box with dual brake master cylinders, i'd stay abs with the stock system if possible.


+1
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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Braking characteristics driving on the street, which most of the above primarily do in their cars, is significantly different than braking characteristics while driving on the track at speed(as I'm sure you know). I've tried it both ways, and without abs(with the rest of the stock system in place) is significantly slower and much more difficult to control/ be predictable/consistant according to my data. Nickdk's(actually his SN on here may be 855mono or something like that) had an abs system issue 2 seperate weekends at Road Atlanta and CMP this year and he flatspotted several tires because of it. His was a wiring issue I believe from where he converted his car to V8. ABS is a competitive advantage for us unless you completely re-do/reengineer the brake system. That's why that(abs) and traction control amongst other driver's aid's were banned in F1 back in 93. It's consistantly faster. In the FD's I've driven with ABS on track, I've never had one act up, with either stock calipers/rotors/master cylinders or with upgraded components. Fritz has experienced the black ice mode at least once and that was with a stock system. However, I have not ran the super wide tires I run now with the stock abs set up. It's a more primitive system than new cars see today, but I think it works well.

I've messed with my full manual set up for close to 2 years now and am just now getting it where I feel it is optimal. I learned the hard way that there is not alot of information out there on them and there aren't many people that truly know the science/engineering behind them, even though in theory it seems to be a fairly simple system. It's a bit of a lost art. The full manual brakes still requires constant adjustment as conditions are always changing. That being said, I'm still looking into reinstall abs back into the system, whether that be a stock FD system, an S2000 system, or a more expensive race system.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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I just sold an ABS computer for ~$30. Whoops!
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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Why not look in to s2k abs set up Just ordered the pump and plug and it suppose to work with stock wheel speed sensors. abs ecu is built in i think I have $120 into the deal so far. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1491.0
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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Hey professor speed, do you know someone that has the S2000 system functional? Tha would be great if someone has found this to be a bolt up system. Last I heard, S2000's system do have issues with stock FD wheel sensors according to Bill(LPI Racing) and he was not running any abs when he sold his car to Mark. The last I heard, he was looking at machining the hub to fit the stock S2000 wheel sensors, but sold the car.
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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No I don't. I have not talked to LPI about there set up directly but part of the problem may have been the lack of proportioning valve. (just a general balance issue.) I can't see the voltage difference cause a premature cycle issue. A pulse frequency issue may have have caused this but Dakota digital makes stuff to get around that. I don't see how s2k sensors will make a difference like LPI was planning. Off the cuff looking at there system, the same pressure front and back would normally be an issue, perhaps they got caliper sizing perfect but not likely. My guess is the rears were trying to lock prematurely. I would think once you get the balance close the abs will do the rest, but if its way off it would cycle early. I'm on the fence if I will run the stock PV or and adjustable one. either would be before the abs unit. I would think your system would be ideal with abs. but make it defeatable so that the balance can be set. I don't see how you could get the balance right with the abs cycling, you would have no idea if its cycling because the front or the rear tires are trying to lock. I hope my logic makes sense

BTW hows the pedal effort with your setup? I'm debating manual brakes and Abs, I would use a tandem cylinder and one of the two PV's mentioned earlier. its either that or hydro boost. I don't see a vacuum booster working with my large cam and boost. (but who knows it might work.)
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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well I just found out my wheel sensors are missing .. I'm trying to keep the ABS after all the feedback . and I can source some Rear ABS sensors for Free ... can I just convert the rear sensors to the front .. I know its different but if I could get them in place .. could I use the rear sensors in the front ?
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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soo after all this time I finally got my abs working correctly yesterday by accident actually .. there was a short in the system and was blowing the fuse. well

I have abs now..

and this is the first car with abs I've had so I'm a little excited and confused .

I want to know just howmuch I'm allowed to rely on and abuse this system ..

I've heard of people with abs still flat spotting tires .

how useful will my hard earned and learned threshold braking skills be LOL ..

will I be allowed to be a bit more careless now ? and really test the limits of the cars brakes?

or should I not rely to-much on it and still try not to lock the tires on my own ?
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