"Fit" is a subjective term.
Without tire-stretching/camber/ride-height-adjustments/fender-rolling some would say 9.5+35 do not "fit."

 

They fit on a stock standard car, as exhibited by Airjordan's car. It is driveable. End of story.

 

"Fits with caveats" would be a more apt description.

 

The front and rear tires were both within the recommended size for a 9.5" wheel from tirerack.

There was also no rubbing while I was still on the stock suspension.

That being said, they fit fine on a completely stock car. The fronts do stick out a bit from the fender, so if a definition of "fit" is inside the fender, then you could make that argument.

If you plan on lowering your car with this setup, you will definitely need to roll the fenders.

 

Well I need some help before I buy tires and mount my wheels. I just received my rota wheels 18x9.5 44 offset front and 35 offset back. I do have the car jacked up without wheels and it seems the wheels stick out like yours. My rear stick out about 1/4" with a straight edge from outside wheel to outside fender and about 1/2" on front. Will I be safe with 255/35 tires all around? It scares me to see the wheels past fender. I do have cool overs but like to get as low as I can go with fender rolling.

Please someone help me out on this.

 

Will give you something in depth later today golson. Running to a meeting atm. Stay tuned!

 

Sorry, was on the toilet earlier, hate using my phone..

Anyways. Running an 18x9.5 +44 on the front and you say the rim outer lip is 1/2" outside the front fender. In that case I would not mount 255's on there.

The profile height of the 255 you want, is 35. That is 35% of the width (255mm) which works out to be 89mm sidewall height.

The rim is 9.5" wide. 255mm wide tire is 10" wide. So the sidewall will be square, straight up and down, with no stretch, 89mm/3.56 inches high. This is the important bit.

Go out to the car, on the front, put the bare rim on there. Measure from the outer lip, straight upwards 3.56 inches. This will be your sidewall height using a 255/35 tire. Does that measurement look like it will collision the fender lip at ride height? My bet is that it will.

Look for a narrower tire more like a 235, possibly a 245, as this will not be as wide as the rim, and thus the sidewalls will stretch over towards the center of the rim more, which will fit better under the fender lip. You may still need to roll the lip, but the chances of fitting a 235/35 or 235/40 on a 9.5 wide rim are more in your favor. 255 will be too square shouldered and tall and probably rub, if you say the fronts are 1/2 proud of the fenders.

Rears. I am running 18x9.5 +35 as well as you. My fender lips are rolled and I am running 245/40 under the rear with no hassle, and that is what I would probably go with, if I were you.

To sum up, probably go 235/35 or 235/40 on your fronts, and 245/40 on the rears. But do the measurements first, calculate the height and width of how the tires will look on the rims, and how they will interact with the bodywork. If the car is jacked up when you do this, remember that things will be different at ride height, and allow for that.

 

That is a great write up. I appreciate you taking the time. I will verify tomorrow....Will let you know...Tanks a ton...

 

Oh, one other important thing I forgot to mention, in regards to ROTA wheels (in fact any alloy wheel with a painted surface finish or powder coating)

I had a mishap on my new ROTAs last week, which I think is worth noting.

I bolted them up, torqued the lug nuts on and went for a drive. My wheels are powder coated black in the center, and across the lug nut tapered seats as well (bad practice, ROTA!!)

During the initial drive, the powder coating between the lug nut taper and the wheel taper sheared away, off the lug seat taper. This caused the lugs to come very loose after the initial drive. I failed to check them and re-torque them as I was in a rush and assumed they would be fine.
As a consequence, one lug completely backed right off and was gone. The others all required re-torquing as they were not tight any more.

As a cautionary story, I would check to see if ROTA has applied paint/powder coating to the lug nut seats of your wheels. If so, then you should fit them, torque them up, drive on them around the neighborhood, then come back home and double check the lugs again. Check after a week of driving again.

I went one step further, and removed the lugs and wiped/blew away the crumbled powder coating from under the lug nut seats, and then put the lugs back and torqued up, no further drama. It just scared me. And I should have double checked the tightness after a week but I failed to.

 

Hey sa3r,
Let me correct my measurements and they might be off because the car is on 4 floor jack stands and obviously the suspension is hanging lower than with tires on hub. So while on floor stands? The rear is almost flush with inner fender. Really it might be an 1/8" inside the inner fender that is the 35's. now the front 44's are about a 1/2" from outer fender as earlier reported. You know I can't really measure accurately since the car is on stands and the suspension hanging. Any ideas? I think your tire recommendations are pretty good but I hate thin tires.....

 

4 month bump.

any results from this? interested to see how these wheels worked out, what tires it took to make it work, if fender pulling was needed, and what ride height was achieved.

also, what does it look like?

i know a lot of people are running staggered tire setups going wider in the rear.. but there's just so many benefits running the same tire on all 4 corners.. being able to rotate tires.. not inducing understeer..

update this thread!

 

Im about to installl a set of wheels 18x9.5 +35 all around too soon, ill get back and update with pics too. Im thinking 255/35 front tire with a 275/30 rear tire. The car is stock bodied with coilovers.

 

Sorry, this thread got a bit lost to me in the forums.
4 months on, I have driven many thousands of kilometres with this wheel and tire combo.
Apart from some brazen douche attempting to steal my wheels and nearly getting his ***** torn off by my watch dog, there have been zero dramas. The wheels fit perfectly (to the stupid poster above who made a snarky comment of "fit is subjective") LOL. No dramas. Perfect set of wheels.

To the post above this, I would not run 255 or 275 tires. You WILL have sidewalls hitting the fender lips. You need to choose narrower tires especially if the car is stock bodied.

 

aiirjordan,

that's not a commonfolk level, whats your occupation? nice choice in automobiles as well..

 

haha what's not commonfolk level?

I work in brake design for an OEM R&D

 

Oh, you sound like an interesting guy to know.

Pads, rotors or complete systems?
I'd be really interested in your work

 

Everything on the brake system, down to the brackets and bolts.

 

So a 245/35 Front and 265/35 Rear would be better or is that still too wide?

 

Im looking into buying ce28 in 18x9 with 35 offset. I read this thread and also comments from jordan223 and sa3r im assuming
18x9 +35 front and back will fit on stock fd not rolled fenders?
what tired would fit i keep seeing to get 4 tires of 245/35 and then I read 225/40

Any information would help thhnk you.
I have a 95 stock fd rx7 bathurst type rx

 

I have done a lot of reading but still have not seen anyone try this. Here is my set up and this is my goal. Current setup ohlins coilovers 1.3 camber R18 9.5 offset 38 on 255/35 tires rears are R18 10 offset 35 285/30 with both front and rear feeders rolled. I want to see if anyone has taken a shot at 275/30 on the fronts. Any experience or suggestions would help.