[FC] Bigass Budget Baller Bilstein Build thread
08-24-12, 01:48 AM
#26
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ok guys my fc is ls swapped, poly bushing swapped, painted and now im looking for a real coilover setup vs. my koni yellow/gc (rear), tokico white/gc (front) setup...
im very interested in this but am kinda lost about what to order or who to make what for me... a
will ram engineering make this setup for me? or can one of you?
im very interested in this but am kinda lost about what to order or who to make what for me... a
will ram engineering make this setup for me? or can one of you?
08-24-12, 06:00 PM
#27
your best bet is to find a local guy that can make the strut housings. Try a shop that does roll cages, this should be easy for them. I can post up a DXF file to laser cut the flanges, thats not something you want to cut by hand with a drill press..
RAM just builds rodend shocks (the rears), but you can get those anywhere. I just went through them because a guy at Bilstein recommended them. I believe Eage8 got his rear shocks through AWR.
RAM just builds rodend shocks (the rears), but you can get those anywhere. I just went through them because a guy at Bilstein recommended them. I believe Eage8 got his rear shocks through AWR.
01-07-13, 08:55 PM
#29
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for my rears I used AWR custom rear bilsteins with remote reservoirs. these are the same units AWR and mazdatrix run/ran on their EP cars... I somehow forgot to take a picture... but they look like this but the newer ones have stainless steel braided lines instead of rubber:
01-08-13, 08:32 PM
#32
The other day I moved them to 17x9s which needed another 5mm of spacers so they're +25s now, but I think they'll be fine on both sides.
no rubbing on the 17x8s, we'll see with the 17x9s. they are fairly close, but not nearly as close as my rears are to the inside and outside... (275 hoosier on a 17x10 +30, they needed some slight fender pulling)
note: I'm running ~-3.5* of camber up front which helps a lot.
01-08-13, 09:31 PM
#33
yeah, I ran 17x8 +30s with 245 hoosiers, it worked fine. Here's a picture:
The other day I moved them to 17x9s which needed another 5mm of spacers so they're +25s now, but I think they'll be fine on both sides.
no rubbing on the 17x8s, we'll see with the 17x9s. they are fairly close, but not nearly as close as my rears are to the inside and outside... (275 hoosier on a 17x10 +30, they needed some slight fender pulling)
note: I'm running ~-3.5* of camber up front which helps a lot.
The other day I moved them to 17x9s which needed another 5mm of spacers so they're +25s now, but I think they'll be fine on both sides.
no rubbing on the 17x8s, we'll see with the 17x9s. they are fairly close, but not nearly as close as my rears are to the inside and outside... (275 hoosier on a 17x10 +30, they needed some slight fender pulling)
note: I'm running ~-3.5* of camber up front which helps a lot.
Anyways, thanks for the info
01-08-13, 10:12 PM
#34
a few things...
first the strut is at an angle, so with 17" wheels you can run the wheel slightly more inboard than 16" wheels because where the wheel/tire begin the spring is further in...
also both me and josh's strut ears are longer than stock to space the strut away from the tire.
here is a shot of my springs clearance with 255 all seasons on 17x9 +25s with a 10" spring (I run a 8" spring now, but it's not that different)
I have a set of 225/50/16 star specs on stock wheels (16x7 +40) and need a 5mm spacer.
first the strut is at an angle, so with 17" wheels you can run the wheel slightly more inboard than 16" wheels because where the wheel/tire begin the spring is further in...
also both me and josh's strut ears are longer than stock to space the strut away from the tire.
here is a shot of my springs clearance with 255 all seasons on 17x9 +25s with a 10" spring (I run a 8" spring now, but it's not that different)
I have a set of 225/50/16 star specs on stock wheels (16x7 +40) and need a 5mm spacer.
01-14-13, 11:37 AM
#35
Tried to get a good picture showing everything, but I don't think I got it right
Thats with 8" long springs. The setup originally came with 6", but the car dropping too much, even with the collar all the way up.
As you can see, the spring perch is touching the tire at just below its widest point (Continental DWS 205/55/16s on stock S5 TII wheels). The threaded collar has about an inch to drop the perch, and about 1.5 inches to raise the perch, which is not enough distance in either direction to clear the tire.
It appears that your setup has wider ears pushing the shock away from the wheel more, and the threaded segment is longer. I think the ground control setup is maximizing the shock travel of the koni by moving the mounting ears up compared to the shock, but that limits the spring adjustment.
Thats with 8" long springs. The setup originally came with 6", but the car dropping too much, even with the collar all the way up.
As you can see, the spring perch is touching the tire at just below its widest point (Continental DWS 205/55/16s on stock S5 TII wheels). The threaded collar has about an inch to drop the perch, and about 1.5 inches to raise the perch, which is not enough distance in either direction to clear the tire.
It appears that your setup has wider ears pushing the shock away from the wheel more, and the threaded segment is longer. I think the ground control setup is maximizing the shock travel of the koni by moving the mounting ears up compared to the shock, but that limits the spring adjustment.
01-14-13, 02:12 PM
#36
Yeah, I've said multiple times in this thread including my last post that both me and josh have longer strut ears than stock. 
I have 5" of threaded sleeve. These are what I'm running on my front struts:
I have 5" of threaded sleeve. These are what I'm running on my front struts:
Last edited by IB Mila; 06-05-13 at 05:52 PM.
05-04-13, 02:22 PM
#38
I'm surprised the compression wasn't valved diggressively. The way it is now will cause the high speed damping to ram up and lose that damping ratio that you wanted. The rebound definitely is valved diggressively and blows off nicely from mid speed. I'm actually goin to be building a monotube bilstein setup too. I work at Fatcat motorsports and all we do is build custom suspension. So it will be a fun project. Nice work though. Definitely like final look. Ill be making mine look more oe and look like I'm just sittin on ground controls. Sleeper suspension FTW.
06-16-13, 09:56 PM
#40
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To Josh and others that have done this, any comment on digressive vs linear shocks? In Josh's setup he mentioned the rears are linear. I'm guessing the 3000gt HDs are digressive? If so, I take it there isn't an issue mixing the two types?
Also, any comment on the linear rears? I was looking for digressives but the Bilstein race/motosport line has more linear options, but I hesitate because one would think you either get less slow bump (low speed) control and good high speed (freeway speed) or the opposite. Can you comment on how your setup feels on the highway or at high speed?
Thanks.
Also, any comment on the linear rears? I was looking for digressives but the Bilstein race/motosport line has more linear options, but I hesitate because one would think you either get less slow bump (low speed) control and good high speed (freeway speed) or the opposite. Can you comment on how your setup feels on the highway or at high speed?
Thanks.
09-13-13, 05:26 AM
#43
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Im also in the market for a good suspension setup, currently riding on stock struts (125k miles) and some shitty Tein springs, LOL, previous owners purchase, not mine. Still saving up for the big purchases, but doing lots of research in the meantime.
09-13-13, 08:25 AM
#44
mine were something like $320 without coilover sleeves and Josh's were $250 with... + he had to make the top strut mounting plate.
09-13-13, 10:53 PM
#46
I think the best value for the rears (what I should have used) are B46-0204OR or B46-0205OR. Or ASN's. Either way, they have integrated coilover hardware, so no needs to buy separate kits.
And then of course get them valved by someone competent.
And then of course get them valved by someone competent.
11-28-13, 06:20 AM
#49
Is it not odd to have adjustable rear damping yet your keeping the non-adjustable front shock? Has any one looked at getting front single adjustables?
Those rear AWR are adjustable right? Why have remote Reservoirs for the rears and not the fronts. (Probable because we cannot adapt these to our cars?)
So the fronts its basically chose which one you want. The 3KGT or the standard B36-5022-H0 then.
Those rear AWR are adjustable right? Why have remote Reservoirs for the rears and not the fronts. (Probable because we cannot adapt these to our cars?)
So the fronts its basically chose which one you want. The 3KGT or the standard B36-5022-H0 then.
11-28-13, 07:42 AM
#50
The rear AWR damper isn't adjustable.
The 3KGT and the R36-5022-H0 are the same damper... it's the front insert from a 3000GT
the remote reservoir has lots of advantages
- better valving ability
- larger nitrogen camber so it doesn't change in pressure as much as the damper travels
- the nitrogen separator piston is in the reservoir so you can have a longer stroke in a shorter shock.
remotes for the front are harder to do... the damper is inverted so the line would have to come out the top which would suck for swapping springs around, you'd need a dry disconnect which are $$$.
I'm currently swapping out my front 3KGT bilsteins for something a bit crazier, but they're getting custom valved and are probably overkill and just extra unsprung weight for most people:
Universal Motorsports Strut
The 3KGT and the R36-5022-H0 are the same damper... it's the front insert from a 3000GT
the remote reservoir has lots of advantages
- better valving ability
- larger nitrogen camber so it doesn't change in pressure as much as the damper travels
- the nitrogen separator piston is in the reservoir so you can have a longer stroke in a shorter shock.
remotes for the front are harder to do... the damper is inverted so the line would have to come out the top which would suck for swapping springs around, you'd need a dry disconnect which are $$$.
I'm currently swapping out my front 3KGT bilsteins for something a bit crazier, but they're getting custom valved and are probably overkill and just extra unsprung weight for most people:
Universal Motorsports Strut