Super AFC SAFCII in need of some help
#1
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SAFCII in need of some help
ok, i just picked up a SAFCII and i need some help with it i got her all set up and working but my car(1987 TurboII) is running just BURTAL when its hooked up so rich im smokin out the joint and the engine barley runs, anyone in here have one? i need to figure out how to adjust the air/fuel ratio.
as for the settings im not really sure how to use them or what there suposed to be set at, all i have is instructions for the SAFC cause you can only get the SAFCII in japanse on the Apexi webstie and theres no way i can understand that, and the instructions are just terrible as it is.
and theres 2 wires for the air flow meter one AFM side one ECU side i have the ECU side hooked up does the AFM side one also have to be hooked up????
my sensor check reads:
In-1: 0.030 V
In-2: o.oo5 V
Thrtl: 1.425 V
Knk:0000
this is when the power is on and the engine isnt running. now im wondering if the V stands for volts if so then my TPS is way off cause it should be at 1 Volt solid right? and the Knk is the knock sensor i beilve which i dont have set up.
So my cars sitting in the garage until i can find some help and figure it out or im unhooking the power and waiting till i have enough money to get over to Van and dyno tune with it.
any help is good help thx.
as for the settings im not really sure how to use them or what there suposed to be set at, all i have is instructions for the SAFC cause you can only get the SAFCII in japanse on the Apexi webstie and theres no way i can understand that, and the instructions are just terrible as it is.
and theres 2 wires for the air flow meter one AFM side one ECU side i have the ECU side hooked up does the AFM side one also have to be hooked up????
my sensor check reads:
In-1: 0.030 V
In-2: o.oo5 V
Thrtl: 1.425 V
Knk:0000
this is when the power is on and the engine isnt running. now im wondering if the V stands for volts if so then my TPS is way off cause it should be at 1 Volt solid right? and the Knk is the knock sensor i beilve which i dont have set up.
So my cars sitting in the garage until i can find some help and figure it out or im unhooking the power and waiting till i have enough money to get over to Van and dyno tune with it.
any help is good help thx.
#2
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Are you sure you have all the settings correct? flap type sensor, 6in 6out, 4 cylinder with arrow pointing diagonally up to the right? I dont think I missed anything.
#4
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Whoops. Sorry about that. Here is a write up with the wires you need to know s4 also. http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/safc.htm
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yea ive got it all wired up, i need to know how to play with the air/fuel setting on it tho i used that website wiring diagram to set it up as well.
#6
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...............
thank you for that rice eater.. i spent half a damn hour trying to get this dude what he needs... first of all if you arent comfortable messing with this stuff or remotely unsure of what you are doing dont mess with the safc have someone else put it in.. just the fact you tried to put it in without directions scares me!....... http://www.adobe.com/products/acroba...nfontpack.html that will enable you to read the manuals... now go download them ..... the 1300cc.com site will help you get the right install.. as will the manuals.. possible negative sideeffects include mild engine destruction. Ecu attention deficit dissorder.... and oh no i broke my car syndrome... safc2 is not for everyone and you should contact your local dyno/ rotary buff to see if its right for you. STOP SCREWING UP YOUR CAR:-P geezus i never thought i would be saying that.... do it right and have fun .....the pres has spoken muhahaha im still shaking my head
the exact files you need ..... http://apexi-usa.com/productdocument...-AFC2Final.pdf
http://apexi-usa.com/productdocument...AFC2Wiring.pdf
the exact files you need ..... http://apexi-usa.com/productdocument...-AFC2Final.pdf
http://apexi-usa.com/productdocument...AFC2Wiring.pdf
Last edited by gxlbiscuit; 12-29-04 at 07:11 PM.
#7
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He said he had it hooked up right and just needed settings for AFM......Anyways, just go to low throttle and high throttle and turn each RPM down to 29 and that should save you until you go to a dyno hopefully. Thats what did on mine.
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Originally Posted by gxlbiscuit
thank you for that rice eater.. i spent half a damn hour trying to get this dude what he needs... first of all if you arent comfortable messing with this stuff or remotely unsure of what you are doing dont mess with the safc have someone else put it in.. just the fact you tried to put it in without directions scares me!....... http://www.adobe.com/products/acroba...nfontpack.html that will enable you to read the manuals... now go download them ..... the 1300cc.com site will help you get the right install.. as will the manuals.. possible negative sideeffects include mild engine destruction. Ecu attention deficit dissorder.... and oh no i broke my car syndrome... safc2 is not for everyone and you should contact your local dyno/ rotary buff to see if its right for you. STOP SCREWING UP YOUR CAR:-P geezus i never thought i would be saying that.... do it right and have fun .....the pres has spoken muhahaha im still shaking my head
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#9
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Originally Posted by Sacker90
He said he had it hooked up right and just needed settings for AFM......Anyways, just go to low throttle and high throttle and turn each RPM down to 29 and that should save you until you go to a dyno hopefully. Thats what did on mine.
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I'm sitting here with my feet propped up watching the telly and typing on a laptop, and I can assure you that you do NOT have it wired correct.
Like you said, if the engine is fully warmed up, the tps voltage is too high. But you already acknowledged that.
What shows up like a sore thumb.......is the lack of a AFM voltage. I think you have the yellow and white wires honked up a bit. Later I'll take a look at the manual and try to figure out what is wrong. OR I could be wrong. Seems to be a trend lately. Later.
Ao go out there and checkout the yellow and white wires for the afm coming in and going out. Yellow and white to the best of my memory right now.
Like you said, if the engine is fully warmed up, the tps voltage is too high. But you already acknowledged that.
What shows up like a sore thumb.......is the lack of a AFM voltage. I think you have the yellow and white wires honked up a bit. Later I'll take a look at the manual and try to figure out what is wrong. OR I could be wrong. Seems to be a trend lately. Later.
Ao go out there and checkout the yellow and white wires for the afm coming in and going out. Yellow and white to the best of my memory right now.
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I'm sitting here with my feet propped up watching the telly and typing on a laptop, and I can assure you that you do NOT have it wired correct.
Like you said, if the engine is fully warmed up, the tps voltage is too high. But you already acknowledged that.
What shows up like a sore thumb.......is the lack of a AFM voltage. I think you have the yellow and white wires honked up a bit. Later I'll take a look at the manual and try to figure out what is wrong. OR I could be wrong. Seems to be a trend lately. Later.
Ao go out there and checkout the yellow and white wires for the afm coming in and going out. Yellow and white to the best of my memory right now.
Like you said, if the engine is fully warmed up, the tps voltage is too high. But you already acknowledged that.
What shows up like a sore thumb.......is the lack of a AFM voltage. I think you have the yellow and white wires honked up a bit. Later I'll take a look at the manual and try to figure out what is wrong. OR I could be wrong. Seems to be a trend lately. Later.
Ao go out there and checkout the yellow and white wires for the afm coming in and going out. Yellow and white to the best of my memory right now.
Last edited by slimjim16; 12-29-04 at 07:37 PM.
#12
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the afm is why i was going apeshit..... u should one wire the white wire to the AFM .. the yellow wire goes to the ECU ... AFM sends the safc 2 the reading the SAFC modifies that reading then sends a new modded signal to the ecu..... both wires need to be connected to work right... you have to cut the stock wire bridging the gap with the SAFC2........ im sorry but im just trying to avert disaster
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There's a jpg at the bottom.
Yes, your white and yellow are not on right.
During Sensor Check, the first voltage should be about 3.9v with the key to JUST ON. The second should read nothing but stray voltage. The third is the tps and should read 1.0 volts on a series four car. The Knock should read zip. If you were rigged to the boost sensor instead of the tps the third voltage should read apporx 2.2 volts.
Wire it as is shown in the JPG below. Take note of the ground wires and the message at the very bottom.
Yes, your white and yellow are not on right.
During Sensor Check, the first voltage should be about 3.9v with the key to JUST ON. The second should read nothing but stray voltage. The third is the tps and should read 1.0 volts on a series four car. The Knock should read zip. If you were rigged to the boost sensor instead of the tps the third voltage should read apporx 2.2 volts.
Wire it as is shown in the JPG below. Take note of the ground wires and the message at the very bottom.
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The wire for the afm is colored GREEN with a BLUE stripe or GL in Mazda terminology.
It is pin 2E. That is on the middle plug of the three.
You find that wire. You cut that wire intwo about three inches from where it connects to that middle plug.
The piece of that GL wire that is still attached to the ECU, will now be attached to the YELLOW wire coming off the SAFC harness.
The other piece of that GL wire will be attached to the WHITE wire coming off the SAFC harness.
Now you turn the key to ON. Go to Sensor Check and the first voltage should read close to 4 volts. The second voltage will read zip. the third voltage will read approx 1volt if the engine is fully HOT.
Is it spelled intwo or into? Need a spell checker.
Done.
It is pin 2E. That is on the middle plug of the three.
You find that wire. You cut that wire intwo about three inches from where it connects to that middle plug.
The piece of that GL wire that is still attached to the ECU, will now be attached to the YELLOW wire coming off the SAFC harness.
The other piece of that GL wire will be attached to the WHITE wire coming off the SAFC harness.
Now you turn the key to ON. Go to Sensor Check and the first voltage should read close to 4 volts. The second voltage will read zip. the third voltage will read approx 1volt if the engine is fully HOT.
Is it spelled intwo or into? Need a spell checker.
Done.
#18
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well i hooked up the white wire and shes workin like a hot dam PERFECT, thx alot guys couldnt have done it without ya, all in a matter of like 3-4 hours too dam this forums good
#19
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the manual on the Apexi website is not in japanese but you DO need the japanese fonts to be able to read the manual or it won't come up at all.
i just installed my SAFC2 last weekend after i printed the manual off of their site, works fine for me.
if your unit was used previously then the fuel maps it has stored may be throwing your fuel trim wayyyy off. go down and initialize the settings, this will set everything to 0 and you can restart from scratch.
i just installed my SAFC2 last weekend after i printed the manual off of their site, works fine for me.
if your unit was used previously then the fuel maps it has stored may be throwing your fuel trim wayyyy off. go down and initialize the settings, this will set everything to 0 and you can restart from scratch.
#20
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Well glad you got it figured out but the car should have run exactly the same before if no adjustments were made, that's the point I think gxl biscuit was trying to get across.
#21
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yea, its still running the same, i havent made any adjustments with the SAFCII im waiting till i get on the dyno so i can tune properly, no blown engine fo me
#22
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how many lbs are you running? you can crank up the mixtures but you cant lower them . im running my car at 85% duty cycle . baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad doy.. but i needed it.. i havent put the fuel pump in yet. car is scary quick now.
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i noticed a couple of things last night when i was monitoring with the SAFC, ive been having boost problems lately like not being able to hit full boost until like 5000rpm, i noticed that my air flow wont go past 49% thinking this may be the problem not enough air gettin to the turbo?? and my low/high throttle settings are set at
low:10
high:50
it hits 100 percent throttle on the SAFC like not even half way on the peddle, i tried moving the percentage up and down and its just worse.
what kinda settings do you guys have yours at???
also thinkin i may have a slight vac leak somewhere but vacumm is around 12 at idle so im not sure if that would cause that much boost lag, any ideas??? thx.
as for mods:
3" downpipe/full exhaust
FCD
3" TID
air pump/split air pipe removed
engines got 35,000k mazda rebuild, turbo has the same
walbro fuel pump
Blitz blow off valve
low:10
high:50
it hits 100 percent throttle on the SAFC like not even half way on the peddle, i tried moving the percentage up and down and its just worse.
what kinda settings do you guys have yours at???
also thinkin i may have a slight vac leak somewhere but vacumm is around 12 at idle so im not sure if that would cause that much boost lag, any ideas??? thx.
as for mods:
3" downpipe/full exhaust
FCD
3" TID
air pump/split air pipe removed
engines got 35,000k mazda rebuild, turbo has the same
walbro fuel pump
Blitz blow off valve
Last edited by slimjim16; 12-30-04 at 03:49 PM.
#25
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by slimjim16
it hits 100 percent throttle on the SAFC like not even half way on the peddle...