i was messing around today with my safc2 and its been atleast 3 months since i played with it. ive never changed files before so i though i would try it. i had my safc2 tuned and when i i got up to about 6400 to 6800 it would sputter like the 3800 problem. but when i changed over to file 2 everything went to zero which i understand cause i never messed with the other file, but any ways when i get on the throttle she pulles hell of alot harder and doesnt sputter at all through 7k.

now just after i had the safc2 tuned i went and reset my timing back to zero.

since i reset my timing back to zero and then switched to file 2 that is zeroed out across the board does that meen i basically set my car back to stock or did i endup leaning it out some. because on my A/F meter it reads stoich at idle and then when im at WOT it barley goes into rich.

also is there any other settings that i could do to keep it from sputtering and make it pull harder now.


*STUPID QUESTION* i know all cars are different but i would like to try some one elses setting because if it works for them its very possible it could work for me? the reason why i ask is cause i dont want to adjust it and put the settings too high or too low and mess something up.


thanks for the help/input
Marc

 

The O2 sensor cools some at idle, so your A/F gauge will show a little leaner that it actually is.
The stock NA ECU is generally rich, so you can set map 2 to all zero as a base line, then experiment with leaning map 1.

You can tune the low (cruise) map by ear.
Just cruise along at a fixed RPM & lean that setting until it just starts to miss, then add back a few %'s.
Repeat for each RPM from 1K to 4K.
Above 4K just taper them back to zero.
My low map is currently very lean with values around -30% & -20%.