So I took an hour and went through all ten pages of threads and examined some of them that looked like they might contain useful information but zip, zero, nadda.

Here is my situation. A road racing S4 TII on medium to fast circuit, a few good straights, mostly fast corners though. I have one engine with a mild streetport and another apart to port this winter. I'm thinking half bridge with the core and at some point in the future bring my streetport up to the same or a big streetport. All fuel, FMIC, exhaust, manifold, etc. are either looked after or will not be adressed until I get the turbo out of the way.

I am trying to corner sponsorship with a Garret distributor and they seem keen on helping me out. I'll learn to what degree in the weeks to come. But first I need to give them an idea as to what I need. So...

I'm looking for 300, preferably 350 HP, preferably RWHP. Much more then that and I'll create more headaches and go through Toyo RA 1's like butter. So what are everyones recommendations for a low lag Garret model. I'd be happy boosting anywhere from 14-18 psi for these 45 minute races. BB goes without saying, have to pay attention to lag, etc. Suggestions for both a stock ECU and stand alone would be appreciated Thanks!

 

Sounds like you want a T60-1 with a .84 turbine A/R. That should spool mad quick, especially if you get the BB option.

Although, that would probably be too small for a HBP engine....

 

Do a 13bre swap and convert non sequential and haltech..or
60-1 with a .96 or .84...very streetable little lag
Td06-25g....same
t-66 bb...same
t-78 more hp but a little laggy
gt35/40...more hp very little lag great midrange.....actually get this turbo
man there is so much turbos out there.......
sean

 

I have a .60 compressor, .81p trim hotside TO4S in my road race car. I can pull a ZO6, and a 996TT off the corner with it. There is no discernable lag. It dynoed 290rwhp at 14 psi w/a moderate street port. If you are POSITIVE you will not want more than ~350, I would do the same set-up, but with a .96, and a large street port. However, if you are going BP, I would go to a T66 .81 Q trim(that is what I am putting in mine in the next 60 days), you can always turn the boost down, but when you're running with some more powerful cars, wouldn't it be nice to turn up the wick to ~450rwhp, and show them who's boss? My car is close to full weight. If you are doing the BB Garrett, then you just do the 3540, and be done with it, no need to BP it. the next size up will be the GT40R, but that will be laggier than you want(I think, I'll know for sure in a week or so ) anyway, my .02. Carl Byck
See pics of my project in the race forum under "Blue widebody FC", or "T66 widebody"

 

BB adds double to the price.

I will follow this thread in general interest but I choose the TO4B 60-1 .96A/R .70 trim with a 4"inlet.

I was told this would be a perfect streetable turbo/track.

Ian

 

Yes, that would be a good set-up also, there are several that will work. FWIW you would never know my current set-up is turbo if you were blindfolded, and ears plugged

 

It's about time you were sourcing out a Turbo Jason. I have to wait for my source to come back so we could find what your looking for. He's diverse In the amount/type of Turbos he carries.

 

Come on folks, more ideas! I need to supply specific trim, A/R, Comp. sizes, etc. Thanks!

 

LOL, Dude. How many people do you think road race their RX-7's.

I think you have some viable options already:

-->T60-1 .70 A/R Comp .84 A/R Turbine P trim (a HKS T04S)
-->T60-1 .70 A/R Comp .96 A/R Turbine P trim

both with BB if you have money to burn.

-->T66 .81 A/R Turbine Q Trim

 

we built an s5 turbine housing with an otrim exahaust wheel and an htrim or super v compressor, and on a ported motor it was fast! seat of the pants dyno was 300ish rwhp

mike

 

Well, FWIW, I'm going to dyno my setup tomorrow. It's a custom spec'd Garrett BB with a 66.7GT compressor wheel and a GTQ turbine wheel on a divided .84 turbine housing with a custom tubular divided manifold and dual TiAl 38 W/G's. Oh yeah, 4" V-band and DP. I think that'll make way more power than what you are shooting for, but it does spool quickly. Dyno graphs to follow this weekend.

Oh, get a standalone. The stock ECU really isn't good for big turbo upgrades although you can make your power with a simple 60-1 hybrid... though that isn't the best route.

 

I'll say it again Chris RACE GAS>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Got it

 

Roro ?

 

carl, i am definitely looking forward to seeing your numbers

 

Actually Chris has one of the three that I may use, and he is dynoing today with Steve Kan, and Ihor. Hopefully things will go well, and he will be able to turn up the boost to 25psi plus, since that is where these turbos make good power. I have a T66 .81 Q trim. Chris has a 67gtqBB, and the last possibility is the GT40R. I will start with the T66 since I own it. I am waiting on wheels(slow boat) and a new manifold, so it will be 2 months before I can dyno. Right now my car is rolling around the garage on FC spare tires.

 

I am considering GT35R... whats specs should I consider for this model or does it comes in only a couple configurations?

 

RacerJason,

If you are considering a GT series turbo then go with the GT35/40 and a nice streetport. If you want to run a bp or a half bp then go with the GT40R. That turbo is big, but with the bridge porting it will spool incredibly fast. The 35/40 will choke up top with a bp so if you want to run that then stick with the streetport option. Plus it would probably prove to be a bit more reliable in the long run. If you want specific info on the turbos that I mentioned then PM Sean "ZeroR" or go to www.a-spectuning.com and you can email them from there. They are really great guys and are always willing to help. Best of luck to you with your sponsorship. Laterz.

Zach

 

Thanks! Anyone else?

 

That covers the gamut, from cheap&proven, to big, expensive, and untested. You really need to decide what max power you want, if it is under 400, and money/sponsorship is not a problem, GT35R(35/40), if you want more, then the T66BB, or a GT40R. Money dependent(under 1000.00) the 60-1 is the way to go. keep in mind, that if you nuke a BB turbo(all the "R", and BB options) it will set you back ~1K, if you nuke a 60-1 its around 200-300. A BP on a GT40R, or a T66BB would be ~450-550rwhp with a powerband from 4000 on up. the 60-1 would be ~3000rpm on up, but peaking ~7000rpm with a max uotput in the high 300s. I am going to try a little smaller Ar on a T66, to see if I can get the spool at ~3500, and a top end with 450-500rwhp. We shall see.