What Ignition system for single?
#26
ign setup
how about 4 Supra COP's two crane hi6's and a crane 2channel (forgot the model), this setup eliminates the plug wires all together! i have this setup for my race car but am not going to run it until the second motor goes in, i have run this on my street car though and it worked nicely!
#27
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Originally posted by RETed
You can get a Crane Cams HI-6DI² - do you have such things?  This is a two channel unit like the MSD DIS-2...
-Ted
You can get a Crane Cams HI-6DI² - do you have such things?  This is a two channel unit like the MSD DIS-2...
-Ted
The ignition output for rotor 1 would then be splitted to fire input 1 on both boxes and then igniton output for rotor 2 would be splitted to input 2 on both boxes. This setup is for a NO SPLIT ignition setup that RICE uses.
#28
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Originally posted by VELCRO SHOES
So whats the best Ignition setup for someone running their power fc on a single turbo setup?
So whats the best Ignition setup for someone running their power fc on a single turbo setup?
#29
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I am happy with my setup, or at least, I can't think of how to improve it right now...
I have a MSD Digital 6+ running a MSD twin post motorcycle coil for the leadings. I was told by MSD that wiring two Blaster coils in parallel is bad because there won't be enough charge time.
http://www.factorydirectperformance.com/mccoil.htm
I have a MSD DIS 2 running 2 Blaster coils on the trailings. If I didn't have to I would have left the trailing stock. Keep it simple. Oh yeah Magnecor 10mm wires.
Once again when I got the car it had Crane units on it, I called Crane for advice, and they told me flat out not to run their units in rotaries. Something about when the boxes fail they fire erratically and blow the motor.
~Jeremy
I have a MSD Digital 6+ running a MSD twin post motorcycle coil for the leadings. I was told by MSD that wiring two Blaster coils in parallel is bad because there won't be enough charge time.
http://www.factorydirectperformance.com/mccoil.htm
I have a MSD DIS 2 running 2 Blaster coils on the trailings. If I didn't have to I would have left the trailing stock. Keep it simple. Oh yeah Magnecor 10mm wires.
Once again when I got the car it had Crane units on it, I called Crane for advice, and they told me flat out not to run their units in rotaries. Something about when the boxes fail they fire erratically and blow the motor.
~Jeremy
#30
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well here is the finsihed product! no more detonation at 1.6 boost! i will let you know how the dyno run turns out! i mounted em behind the passenger seat on two aluminum rails nice and sturdy and out of the elements.
#31
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Originally posted by fast13b
Once again when I got the car it had Crane units on it, I called Crane for advice, and they told me flat out not to run their units in rotaries. Something about when the boxes fail they fire erratically and blow the motor.
~Jeremy
Once again when I got the car it had Crane units on it, I called Crane for advice, and they told me flat out not to run their units in rotaries. Something about when the boxes fail they fire erratically and blow the motor.
~Jeremy
Heh, been there, done that. That would explain why my motor blew back in November of 2000. I was on the highway, nailed it, and the car just completely lost power. Upon opening the motor, I found that all 3 apex seals in the front rotor were blown right down the center of them (where the spark plug happens to be.) I kinda thought it was either the Crane HI-6 Firehall ignition or the PFS purple computer that I was running at the time. I guess it's good to know that it was most likely the Crane ignition/coil. Of course, this knowledge doesn't really help me now... Oh yeah, don't run a crane ignition!! :-)
#32
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Originally posted by spicrx7
Heh, been there, done that. That would explain why my motor blew back in November of 2000. I was on the highway, nailed it, and the car just completely lost power. Upon opening the motor, I found that all 3 apex seals in the front rotor were blown right down the center of them (where the spark plug happens to be.) I kinda thought it was either the Crane HI-6 Firehall ignition or the PFS purple computer that I was running at the time. I guess it's good to know that it was most likely the Crane ignition/coil. Of course, this knowledge doesn't really help me now... Oh yeah, don't run a crane ignition!! :-)
Heh, been there, done that. That would explain why my motor blew back in November of 2000. I was on the highway, nailed it, and the car just completely lost power. Upon opening the motor, I found that all 3 apex seals in the front rotor were blown right down the center of them (where the spark plug happens to be.) I kinda thought it was either the Crane HI-6 Firehall ignition or the PFS purple computer that I was running at the time. I guess it's good to know that it was most likely the Crane ignition/coil. Of course, this knowledge doesn't really help me now... Oh yeah, don't run a crane ignition!! :-)
#33
Need more sleep
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A quick issue for the ignition experts. I have been troubleshooting an ignition misfire that occurs under boost only (of course) and wanted to ask others what they might have found to cure similar problems. I'm running stock ignition with an HKS ignition amp and heat range 9 plugs, tried both EGV and BUR with same results. Boost above 10 psi and the car will misfire consistently with AFR in the mid 10 range with or without the water injection (AFR via Uego wideband). This occurs at most any rpm above 4k. I'm a bit concerned to just lean the car out since the misfire may indicate the rich condition. Under most any other conditions the car runs perfect.
Any thoughts? ... harness, coil, etc
Any thoughts? ... harness, coil, etc
#34
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I'll assume you've got new plugs, try double checking all your ignition wiring connections. Also add an extra ground strap if you haven't already. Then look it when it is pitch black for any spark arcing.
~Jeremy
~Jeremy
#36
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I was told from numerous BIG HORSEPOWER RX7 Guy's including SOULASSASIN and DAVE from KD ROTARY that the FD'S ignition system was good up to 600 HP.Are these guy's LYING ????
#39
Need more sleep
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fast13b,
I'm on it, will re-check connections and wire runs and then start swapping parts. Plugs are new, changed them out several times. Plug wires are new but will try another set. Coil harness is new, old harness was trash. In the dark there is no arcing noticeable around the spark plug side of the motor.
I'm on it, will re-check connections and wire runs and then start swapping parts. Plugs are new, changed them out several times. Plug wires are new but will try another set. Coil harness is new, old harness was trash. In the dark there is no arcing noticeable around the spark plug side of the motor.
#40
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I always found my arcing coming off of the coils themselves, especially the trailing ones. I fried a bunch of them before I figured it out... Now I know though that when they are arcing, you can here them clicking. Coils should basically be silent. Don't actually touch your ear to them though... *zap*
~J
~J
#41
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Originally posted by fast13b
I always found my arcing coming off of the coils themselves, especially the trailing ones. I fried a bunch of them before I figured it out... Now I know though that when they are arcing, you can here them clicking. Coils should basically be silent. Don't actually touch your ear to them though... *zap*
~J
I always found my arcing coming off of the coils themselves, especially the trailing ones. I fried a bunch of them before I figured it out... Now I know though that when they are arcing, you can here them clicking. Coils should basically be silent. Don't actually touch your ear to them though... *zap*
~J
#43
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Guys..wouldnt a true direct fire (coil over plug) design be trick on our cars??? you would need to find a way to fab some brackets on the intermidate plate and the front/rear plates to hold the coils on securely..the key would be is to see if they could stay firmly on the plugs in everyday street driving espeically since they would be mounted horozontially... what a dream set-up
#44
read above
i just mentioned that at the top of this page!!!! i have already done it using Supra COPs!! the bracket is easy, only problem is that it is a BITCH to replace the plugs
nobody ever listens to me
nobody ever listens to me
#45
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Originally posted by A-Spec Tuning
Guys..wouldnt a true direct fire (coil over plug) design be trick on our cars??? you would need to find a way to fab some brackets on the intermidate plate and the front/rear plates to hold the coils on securely..the key would be is to see if they could stay firmly on the plugs in everyday street driving espeically since they would be mounted horozontially... what a dream set-up
Guys..wouldnt a true direct fire (coil over plug) design be trick on our cars??? you would need to find a way to fab some brackets on the intermidate plate and the front/rear plates to hold the coils on securely..the key would be is to see if they could stay firmly on the plugs in everyday street driving espeically since they would be mounted horozontially... what a dream set-up
There is no real "cheap" way to upgrade these units.
Direct fire nature (not even wastesparked) means you need X amount of ignition channels for X amount of cylinders; for a rotary, that means you need FOUR CDI boxes.  Aftermarket coils put out a more powerful and hotter spark, especially when hooked up with a CDI box - why mess with those coil-on-plug things?
-Ted
#46
COP
well the Supra'sa are able to make 1100 RWHP with the stock COP's so they cannot be too bad right? i have used it and the only disadvantage is that you must use a four channel amp or any combination but they work flawless.
#48
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Update, finally installed my crane Hi6's and LX92 coils, along with this I bought 2 new trailing coils HEC716 Bosch with 20cm spiral wire leads.
OMG what a fucken unreal difference The car is able to spin the tires, no SMOKE the tires from 4000rpm ! in second gear (race LSD 3.909 ratio) while in gear in a dead straight line just by applying the throttle.
Prior to the ignition upgrade You would need around 5500rpm on the tach before this would turn the tires this hard !
It does everything better, so it should for the money ! But yeah I fully recommend the upgrade (if you need it) I needed it as my transistor ignition was on the edge, and realy I just put up with it for far too long, wish I went CDI a long time ago.
Thanks Irv for the advice (crane set up) and tech help
OMG what a fucken unreal difference The car is able to spin the tires, no SMOKE the tires from 4000rpm ! in second gear (race LSD 3.909 ratio) while in gear in a dead straight line just by applying the throttle.
Prior to the ignition upgrade You would need around 5500rpm on the tach before this would turn the tires this hard !
It does everything better, so it should for the money ! But yeah I fully recommend the upgrade (if you need it) I needed it as my transistor ignition was on the edge, and realy I just put up with it for far too long, wish I went CDI a long time ago.
Thanks Irv for the advice (crane set up) and tech help
#50
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Originally posted by RICE RACING
Update, finally installed my crane Hi6's and LX92 coils, along with this I bought 2 new trailing coils HEC716 Bosch with 20cm spiral wire leads.
OMG what a fucken unreal difference The car is able to spin the tires, no SMOKE the tires from 4000rpm ! in second gear (race LSD 3.909 ratio) while in gear in a dead straight line just by applying the throttle.
Prior to the ignition upgrade You would need around 5500rpm on the tach before this would turn the tires this hard !
It does everything better, so it should for the money ! But yeah I fully recommend the upgrade (if you need it) I needed it as my transistor ignition was on the edge, and realy I just put up with it for far too long, wish I went CDI a long time ago.
Thanks Irv for the advice (crane set up) and tech help
Update, finally installed my crane Hi6's and LX92 coils, along with this I bought 2 new trailing coils HEC716 Bosch with 20cm spiral wire leads.
OMG what a fucken unreal difference The car is able to spin the tires, no SMOKE the tires from 4000rpm ! in second gear (race LSD 3.909 ratio) while in gear in a dead straight line just by applying the throttle.
Prior to the ignition upgrade You would need around 5500rpm on the tach before this would turn the tires this hard !
It does everything better, so it should for the money ! But yeah I fully recommend the upgrade (if you need it) I needed it as my transistor ignition was on the edge, and realy I just put up with it for far too long, wish I went CDI a long time ago.
Thanks Irv for the advice (crane set up) and tech help
Also,will this work the same for a single turbo 3rd gen?
Thanks