What about a T67 turbo with a 40mm wastegate output?
#1
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What about a T67 turbo with a 40mm wastegate output?
A friend is selling me a Precision T67 ball bearing turbo with a 0.81 hotside. I believe this is the same t04r turbo. In addition he is giving me a 40mm tial wastegate. All this for $800 bucks.
Question
1- IF the mods in my signature (i have a dowel engine) @17psi with race gas could i achieve over 425whp? i think i may need larger injectors.
2-What would be the peak hp a turbo with this hotside can make? Peak psi?
3-Is the 40mm too small?
Question
1- IF the mods in my signature (i have a dowel engine) @17psi with race gas could i achieve over 425whp? i think i may need larger injectors.
2-What would be the peak hp a turbo with this hotside can make? Peak psi?
3-Is the 40mm too small?
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What would be he max whp that a t67 with a 0.81 hotside could make? 450whp? Is the 0.81 hotside too small for a streetported engine?
Is a 40mm wastegate too small for this?
Is a 40mm wastegate too small for this?
#4
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You might be able to make over 425 at 17psi. That housing is a little on the small side, but it will still make the power, just the upper RPMs will start choking especially at higher boost levels. Your Power band will be shifted down in RPMs. Try the wastegate and see. It really depends on how well the manifold is made and how direct the path is to the wastgate, and if it's plumbed back into the system. But higher boost levels will require less from the wastegate since it will be using the exhaust gas to keep the turbo moving. If you were to run enough boost you wouldn't even need a wastegate. haha
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My injector duty was about 80% at 365whp. I think i could manage just over 400whp @95% duty cycle. I have a denso supra pump and rewired job. This helped alot my duty cycle. I planned to put 1600cc secondaries in the near future
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Already bought the turbo and wastegate. Going to build a custom stainless steel manifold and downpipe. THe idea is, with a custom manifold, we can put the turbo whenever we want, oppose to buying a chinese manifolf on ebay, and the put goes where it goes.
I am converting to single in 2 months. Saving up rest of the money.
I am converting to single in 2 months. Saving up rest of the money.
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Also he told me that 1600cc would be overkill for my power level (470whp). Any inputs?
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Yeah you should go with the 1680 injectors, you might be able to get by with 850 1000 but it would require a much higher base pressure. The secondaries that people usually go with to keep the stock rail is either 1200 or 1300cc and are stock 850's drilled out. I've already had a stock primary injector fail once for no reason so i don't think drilling out old stock injectors is a good way to do it. I'm running 550/1680 with higher base pressure and its enough fuel for over 500 rwhp.
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Going single next week, doing a custom stainless steel manifold. Bought the 13b flange from racing beat and a flange for t4 inlet ftom ATP. Aim is for at least 400whp @ 15-16psi with Sunoco Race Gas. Going to maxed out my injectors to 90-95% duty.
In the near future adding a Aeromotive FPR and 1600cc injectors. Keep you posted with results.
In the near future adding a Aeromotive FPR and 1600cc injectors. Keep you posted with results.
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just came from dyno. Managed 429whp@15psi with sunoco racing gas. Car could have made more power but due to some reason the boost controller or wastegate had a problem controlling the psi. i have a tail 40mm wastegate and i may have to change the spring. or maybe my problem is my greddy profec . i am really happy with the results.
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my tial 40mm wastegate doesn't give me less than 15psi. I want to have 10-11psi on the street and 15psi on the track. Should i change my wastegate spring? should i change the wastegate? the smaller the wastegate 40mm for example the more boost it controls?
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People get their boost controllers installed incorrectly quite frequently. Triple check the wiring and hoses. Also, do not trust someone else telling you what spring you have in there, physically open it up, and check the color of the spring vs the tial website. Also check the spring, as some people try weird things cutting the spring trying to make it softer and such.
I was running a 5 lb spring on my tial 38 mm running a pt67 (not BB) and I could easily control anywhere from 5-11 psi. I never went over 11 as I was going for reliability. Sadly the engine blew because of bad porting. I will be going for the magic 15 psi hopefully in 2 weeks when all the parts get here for the rebuild.
P.S. Great power for the PSI, I'm going for 400 on this next build, you give me hope! If you could, post the dyno sheet, I would love to see when the torque hits on your build.
~Tweak
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Hello, I'm sorry I may have missed it, but what spring do you have in currently? If you have a 15 lb spring in there, you can't go under 15, all a boost controller can do is to UP from the spring. If you want to have 10-11 on the street and 15 psi on the track you will have to have either right at 10 psi, or slightly under 10 psi spring. I would get something like a 8-9 lb in case you want to run even less boost some day, and have the boost controller control the 10-11 street, and 15 track.
People get their boost controllers installed incorrectly quite frequently. Triple check the wiring and hoses. Also, do not trust someone else telling you what spring you have in there, physically open it up, and check the color of the spring vs the tial website. Also check the spring, as some people try weird things cutting the spring trying to make it softer and such.
I was running a 5 lb spring on my tial 38 mm running a pt67 (not BB) and I could easily control anywhere from 5-11 psi. I never went over 11 as I was going for reliability. Sadly the engine blew because of bad porting. I will be going for the magic 15 psi hopefully in 2 weeks when all the parts get here for the rebuild.
P.S. Great power for the PSI, I'm going for 400 on this next build, you give me hope! If you could, post the dyno sheet, I would love to see when the torque hits on your build.
~Tweak
People get their boost controllers installed incorrectly quite frequently. Triple check the wiring and hoses. Also, do not trust someone else telling you what spring you have in there, physically open it up, and check the color of the spring vs the tial website. Also check the spring, as some people try weird things cutting the spring trying to make it softer and such.
I was running a 5 lb spring on my tial 38 mm running a pt67 (not BB) and I could easily control anywhere from 5-11 psi. I never went over 11 as I was going for reliability. Sadly the engine blew because of bad porting. I will be going for the magic 15 psi hopefully in 2 weeks when all the parts get here for the rebuild.
P.S. Great power for the PSI, I'm going for 400 on this next build, you give me hope! If you could, post the dyno sheet, I would love to see when the torque hits on your build.
~Tweak
#21
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Sorry I don't understand what you are trying to say. What power should I have been making? I was able to control it with both my haltech boost controller (once I figured out all the silly settings), AND my c02 power boost controller quite easily. I'm just confused on what you are saying, sorry.