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"Wet" or "Dry" NOS system???

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Old 08-20-01, 10:44 PM
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"Wet" or "Dry" NOS system???

I am seriously fed up with my sequential turbo bull crap, and I am thinking of going big single.. I want around 500hp in race trim. I know there are some people who say big singles have a little bit of lag, so you can use NOS to make up for it a little. How many people use a NOS system?? And do you use the "Wet" system?? Or the "Dry" system?? Thanks...
Old 08-20-01, 10:50 PM
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go with a "Wet" set-up...
wet systems mix fuel and nitrous at the jet
dry systems bump up fuel pressure to add fuel
Old 08-21-01, 01:59 PM
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Definitely go for a WET SYSTEM...
Old 08-24-01, 05:30 AM
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dry

dry is safer and cheeper. you can run 50 to 75 hp shot dry which is just right for a spool up shot.
Old 08-24-01, 04:28 PM
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wront..
Dry is not safer cause it doesnt shoot fuel in @ the same time.. So the levels oculd be off and the rx7 will not adjust for the extra air.... Its not that smart....

Wet is the only way to go SAFELY!
Old 08-24-01, 06:40 PM
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I like it wet!

I also like WET better than DRY! As the others said, it is just safer. The only reason to go dry is for ease of installation, but it is not worth it for the safety tradeoff. A properly installed wet system is setup with parallel redundancy, in that the solenoids are wired as AND logic; ie, either no2 and fuel spray or NOTHING sprays! The Zex systems and others look tempting because they are so easy to install (no microswitch, no fuel solenoids or nozzle, etc, etc) but I would be scared to try it on a turbo car. Perhaps an NA? Perhaps your neighbor's Civic? Most of the dry systems boost fuel pressure to add additional fuel, but the net fuel added is not linear at lower injector duty cycles when compared to high duty cycles -- where the fuel load is calculated. As an illustration, boosting fuel pressure by 10PSI with a 30% duty cycle does not add the same amount of fuel as compared to 80%. Adding duty cycle is the only linear way to add fuel with a dry system. Now, if you had your standalone ECU handle everything, than a dry system could be quite safe and effective. Usually a specific table is set up to control added fuel while the NOS is on -- but again, you do not have the mechanical redundancy that you have with a wet system. What happens when the input wire to the ECU from your no2 solenoid gets damaged by a ghetto stereo installer or some other creative situation? Oh well, just my $.02
Old 08-25-01, 10:49 AM
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Ok... so it sounds as if wet is the way to go...
Old 08-25-01, 02:11 PM
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I've always heard that dry is safer, provided that you have enough injector. There's also less stuff to go wrong -ie having another solenoid for fuel and the possibility of mainly spraying raw fuel into an engine when the bottle pressure drops a bit after a few runs. You don't have a highly explosive nitrous+fuel mixture outside of the combustion chamber with a dry kit. Wet kits have been known to blow up intercoolers, intakes, ect from time to time.

And no, dry doesn't mean that fuel is not added, its just added at a safer point downstream (injectors).

But....with where the technology is with nitrous kits today, if set up correctly, either kit should work well.
Old 08-27-01, 04:41 AM
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see.

Originally posted by Marshall
I've always heard that dry is safer, provided that you have enough injector. There's also less stuff to go wrong -ie having another solenoid for fuel and the possibility of mainly spraying raw fuel into an engine when the bottle pressure drops a bit after a few runs. You don't have a highly explosive nitrous+fuel mixture outside of the combustion chamber with a dry kit. Wet kits have been known to blow up intercoolers, intakes, ect from time to time.

And no, dry doesn't mean that fuel is not added, its just added at a safer point downstream (injectors).

But....with where the technology is with nitrous kits today, if set up correctly, either kit should work well.

exactly what i ment i just didnt go into that much detail. with your computer set right you can compinsate for the more O2 inriched air. it is also safer because nos its self is not flammable. all it does is cool the air so it is more dense and it doesnt mix with fuel until it gets to the combustion chamber where it belongs.
Old 09-06-01, 11:28 PM
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How about a fogger system it is a lot of work to install but the spray point is in the intake manifold right at the engine block. I do not know exactly how it works. I have a dry system on my N/A and I can not spray more than 50hp I tried 75 hoping to go to 100 and @ 75 it leaned out. @ 50 the car is happy. I considered going w/ bigger secondary injectors to help w/ the leaning out and try again for 100 hp.
Old 09-07-01, 09:36 PM
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A wet kit helps to better atomize the fuel plus pre-mix the nitrous and fuel and you have a better solution.
Old 09-07-01, 10:59 PM
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just so ya know...

I am getting a wet system on the first of the month...apparently there are two options..either the nitrous express setup or NOS.

I actually spoke to a representive at ZEX yesterday who basically sent me shopping elsewhere as he was worried about the amount of boost I run etc...he was basically worried Id blow the motor with a dry system. there was apprehension in regards to a dry system on turbo cars...if mine was NA Id go zex just because of the ease of the install and engineering.

with the wet system you dont need bigger injectors or a pfc...I have a gforce and am getting the cosmo fuel pump....that will be enuff to handle the capabilities of the wet system...or so I am advised.


jason
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Old 09-08-01, 06:29 PM
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Do you "wet" guys recommend multible fuel nozzles? I have always heard that manifolds that are designed to carry air only do not always disperse fuel evenly, so a rotor might be a little lean while the other is a little rich. I had a dry system on my '95 SE. No problems there, but there was no turbo, and the system was a 50hp.
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Old 09-08-01, 06:33 PM
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1 jet is all that is needed, just plumb it before the throttle body (ie: greddy elbow)



Originally posted by Gearhead
Do you "wet" guys recommend multible fuel nozzles? I have always heard that manifolds that are designed to carry air only do not always disperse fuel evenly, so a rotor might be a little lean while the other is a little rich. I had a dry system on my '95 SE. No problems there, but there was no turbo, and the system was a 50hp.
Don.
Old 09-08-01, 09:05 PM
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Dry is only safe when used with low HP shots. For example 50 hp shot. Anything over 75 or 100 hp should go wet especially on our applications. The reason is the intake manifold may not distribute the N20 evenly enough under high HP applications so one cyl or in our case one rotor will get more than the other and the fuel requirements will be exceded. Also a dry system is easy to set up vs a wet system. FOr what your looking to do (pre spool a big turbo) a dry set up is just fine. even a 50 hp shot will multiply the exhaust flow enough to make a dramtic differance in spooling time for the big single. Less is more in this application. The Turbo will make more than enough power once its up and spoolin so the N20 should be used just out of the hole. Dont go through the hassle of a wet system. Its a tuning nightmare unless your seting it up for track use only and hitting the juice everytime you take off. It gets into much more detail on why I wouldnt use a wet system and we can talk about it via e-mail if your interested. but I think your needs are for a small shot on a dry system.
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