I would assume major carbon buildup as your engine oil won't burn as clean as the premix...and blowby is combustion coming in not oil going into chamber but we can keep our hopes up for those who have lots of blowby!

 

I am (mostly) joking, but the cause was (mostly) an overfilled oil pan.

 

Update:

I was able to get the motor in the car and the wastegates routed accordingly. The turblown manifold fits like a glove. I have ordered a Borg Warner s300sxe, 69mm Inducer / 80mm Turbine Wheel - 13009097051

I hope it will fit nice and easy as it is advertised with the manifold.

I was able to get the ID 1700xds installed in the secondary rail with no issues. I am waiting on another EGT sensor as the threads pulled out of it when I went to change its position in the manifold grrr...

Hopefully it can be up and running in the next 2 weeks.

 

too bad you missed the lightly used S369SXE 1.00 A/R T4 I gave someone a good deal on about two months ago
.

 

Teamrx8, thank you for your reply, how was your experience with the turbo? I am coming from a slightly smaller turbo that may not have been as efficient as this one.

 

Update:

I was able to get the egt sensor replaced. The s300 69mm has arrived and it's looking wild. I got it clocked and now just waiting on some 12 an line for the oil drain.

I called full function engineering as I suspected that my stock pulley was marked incorrectly and they said the arrow on the trigger wheel needs to point directly at the sensor and that is TDC... Well my stock pulley is off by about 15 degrees. I had previously been using the pulley marks which may have assisted the previous engines early deaths.

Pictures of Manifold with EGTs and the FFE email I received.

 

Well, I am glad to hear that you figured out the timing being off by 15* would make a big difference in boost. Glad to see everything come back together.

 

some tools are worth having, though once you have TDC nailed down then determining any position from there is straightforward and doesn’t really require an additional $400 for that purpose imo.

.

regarding the S369SXE, it was a blast once up on boost. If your goal is 550 - 700 whp with 20 - 30 psig boost then it will serve the purpose well for the price. I didn’t need that much and am also more into low end response. These links might be helpful:

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...17psi-1133866/

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...19whp-1140159/

.

 

​​​​​​teamrx8, thank you for the reply. I have seen that video but I chose to go with a crank trigger for other reasons, less timing drift and a digital sensor, and what's nice is it's also a double check on my stock pulley which I should have been paying attention to earlier it seems

 

you can use it for nailing down TDC with any pulley or crank trigger setup. You might be surprised by having made an assumption. Because there’s no guarantee on any of them being spot on without having determined so directly. With timing being so critical on a wankel it sort of shocked me to think how many people just send it on a wing and a prayer.

I also updated my prior post and you caught me during the edit.
.

 

Teamrx8 yes I do see the update now. I am shooting for 14psi/1bar at around 420 hp. I am willing to give up response for lower back pressure which is what I was trying to achieve with the larger frame turbo

 

Update:

She is alive. I poured a ton of 2 stroke in it after I finished the rebuild and it was a smoke show on startup which is always fun. I was able to get the timing adjusted per the FFE trigger wheel I had to change the crank offset by 6, I'm not sure if it was retarded or advanced as I am not confident in my understanding of the marks and which direction advance and retard is. I wish I could feel more confident in it. I am waiting for my intercooler pipes to come so I will be idling the car and driving it up and down the street at 10mph. The egts are quite interesting, the air coming out is hotter then hades.


I apologize in advance for the beeping

 

pls delete

 

If I'm seeing that right, 730 and 710F for EGT's? Doesn't seem out of the ordinary to me.

 

+1 what RPM is it at?

mine at 800rpm idle is in the 500-550c range, if i rev it up, EGT goes up...

 

You can always try adding more fuel at idle if you want to decrease the EGT temps. It sounds like the idle didnt level out in the video. Curious to see the temps when its fully warmed up idle.

 

Thank you all for your replies rotarymachine and j9fd this was at an idle of around 850RPM. When I was cruising up the street at around 30 mph it went up to about 1100 degrees ~3000rpm 20% throttle. When the car is not heat soaked the idle temp is around 650 and when heat soaked around 750. I do have the probes inserted deep into the manifold which may explain the slightly higher temps.

 

so i just ran mine (no more idle bounce!) and with the PFC and air pump,
770rpm idle is like 475c (stock ecu was higher)
1600rpm fast idle was like 700c
at 3000rpm it should be 750? 800?

not saying mine are correct or anything, just data to compare

 

Hmm, what is your afr at idle on the PFC? Also if you could let me know what your EGTs are while cruising that would be great!

One of my EGT data points:
13.6 AFR
1285 F Front Rotor EGT
1284 F Rear Rotor EGT
3000 RPM
~ -15 mmhg
15% Throttle
73C Coolant
34C Intake (Heat soaked stock sensor)

Please excuse the wiring madness

 

idle is about17.5!

the air pump throws it off, i think without its about 11.8? me and the autotune are fighting about it

i'll get back to you on the cruise EGT, 1285 is probably not that far off mine though

 

Thank you for the information. That is quite the rich idle AFR, that would explain why its nice and cool. I'm idling at about 13.2-5 AFR.

Looking forward to your cruise EGT's

 

Michael you cruise AFR's again seem in the ball park for my understanding. Believe it or not cruise/constant throttle EGT's will be higher than you see under load as you will be running much more lean than say doing a WOT, lower RPM pull where you are injecting much more fuel. From what I've understood EGT's should dip down from cruise when going WOT at lower RPMS then climb with RPMS to peak EGT at redline/max boost.


Also if comparing EGT's to each other, make sure you consider what heat range of spark plug you are both using too; this will have some effect on EGTs also.

 

Also this...... depending on manufacturer, but I believe it's Haltech that recommends probes on a turbo application to be inserted 6-7mm only or something like that. Don't quote me on the specifics but I've always heard 6-7mm insertion for turbo application.

Also Also: keep in mind J9's numbers are in C where yours are in F, so you're actually seeing quite a bit lower EGTs than his original post.

 

Rotaryrx thank you for the replys. The EGT probes I have are from Glowshift. I did notice that they are quite a bit thicker than the haltech ones (I had lying around). The probe wont even fit into the 1/8 npt bung its so much bigger. I did review the Glowshift installation guide and they do not mention anything about probe depth. They are not the most motorsports driven business so they may not have specific documentation for depths and such. Either way their robustness gives me confidence to run them a little deeper in the bung than usual. The sensor reads up to 2200F. Hopefully I never get near that.

 

Update:

I took the car for a short 40 mile drive yesterday and it always feels so good to be back on the street after a rebuild. Car was cruising smooth but I did notice that my idle vaccum is down from when I used the E and J seals on the last rebuild. Maybe it needs some more time to break in... I am pulling around -14-15 mmHG at idle ~800 rpm. My idle ignition timing is 10 with a split of 10.