have you ever built a rotary before? do you have any mechanical experience? do you have thousands of dollars of tools you will need? there is alot involved

 

Go for the s475 on a full bridgeport.

 

Ive rebuilt 2 13b engines one s4 and one s5 both of which are still running. As far as mechanical experience ive been working on cars for 10+years. And have been playing around with rotary for 2+ years. I dont plan on doing the porting myself and a few other things that should be done at a machine shop/specialty shop. Yes i have tons of tools and not from lowes or walmart either. I only use craftsman, snap-on, and other high end tools.



Anything else you want to know if i do or dont have?

 

semi P port, microtech, and that gt40

 

i really want to stay away from P ports even semi-P ports. Microtech is good though Gt40 i still in consideration

 

On paper the REW is a better motor for sure, but since you have an FC you have to ask yourself whether it's really worth some of the extra work like engine mounts etc. They're both going to blow up if you detonate them enough, and the difference in power output isn't that far apart.

On my 88 T2 I guess you could say I'm just finishing a setup that is capable of getting close to your goals, except I am building for maximum pump gas streetability.

I've got:

-- series 5 irons (large street port) and intake manifolds , s4 TB and OMP
-- series 4 housings and rotors (kept the 8.5:1 rotors to decrease risk of detonation)
-- Rotary Aviation 2mm Super Seals, new OEM side and corner seals hand-clearanced to 2 thousandths of an inch
-- T04R turbo (a bit smaller than the GT40 but close, highest dynos I see are in the mid 500s)
-- Feed stainless manifold with Tial 44mm wastegate
-- Modified Greddy 3 row FMIC kit to retain power steering

-- Power FC engine management with all brand new sensors
-- Datalogit for self-tuning and logging of LC1 wideband and dual EGT
-- BAC/ISC system and thermowax system retained for maximum driveability

planning for 17psi on straight pump gas (no meth, race gas, or anything else) with a target AFR of 11:1 and max EGT's under 1500 F pre-turbo. at that high of boost I'll probably start with 10 degrees of leading advance (@ peak torque) and 15 degrees split, and then adjust the timing curve towards my target EGT range. I don't know how much power it's going to make, but horsepower is like money: after you reach a certain level it becomes increasingly useless.

I'm going to keep my factory 16-17 city mpg (hence the street port), my factory cruise control, my factory interior, and as much of my good condition factory wiring as possible.

 

if you decide to go with a T04R turbo i have a newly rebuilt T04R and custom downpipe and greddy cast manifold.. i made 405 whp with this setup with a bone stock internal S5 motor running only 15 psi. This turbo dosent even wake up till 17 psi and its good for 700+ hp if your interested let me know...it will be up for sale in a couple weeks. i see your in pa too so you can even come check it out..

 

t88 with 75 shot to spool

 

want to stay away from nitrous for the spooling. I did pick up a bunch of parts though for the build but have since put it on the back burner because im going to turbo swap my vert in the next month or so

 

The vert has become the beast build. So far I have a short-block built to handle ~1000hp and a Haltech platinum sport 2000 and some other odds and ends.


I am still debating on a turbo. Thinking GT-42r or still the GT-40 maybe even the S475. I will be getting my manifold and down pipe from himni-racing. Going with a full 4 inch stainless exhaust. The car will be widebody, full cage, and full interior.

 

hmmm...

 

why the hell would you do that on a 'vert. too heavy

 

If you're looking for a 650ish whp car, get a GT42, aviation seals, and run some decent IC piping and exhaust. You'll need the supporting fuel (1680's and 1000's), meth injection, and stick with pump gas. 600- 650 all day long if you know what you're doing.
If you want to go nuts, add more fuel, crank the boost up to 40, ditch the stock E shaft for a 2 piece and put down 850 on pump.
If you want a real intake manifold, PM me.

 

I chose a vert because im not building a race car. Just a street beast to drive every once in a blue moon.

I have the meth kit and injectors already. I also had all my engine parts cryo treated before it was put together if that makes a difference. Not to mention i had the entire rotating assembly balanced.

 

If you dont get the 2 piece E shaft , you will need to race clearance the motor (rotors)! GOOD power makes clearances change !

 

well i called my builder and i have nothing to worry about. He installed a 2-piece E-Shaft

 

GoodStuff!!!

Why? I run a semi pp on the street now and I absolutely LOVE IT ! i WILL NOT EVER GO BACK !!

 

Build got put on the back burner again because my DD has a spun rod bearing. Did get my shortblock back and in the car mated up with a cusco twin disk clutch. Probably will finish it this winter.

 

A little hopefull aren't we...