The ultimate 13b
02-04-08, 07:39 PM
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The ultimate 13b
Hi guys. Im new to this forum so hello. I just recently acquired two used but in good condition motors. One is a 13b-re and the other is a 13b-rew. I know that the re has a better intake system, but the rew has better ports. The re has a stronger rear plate around the dowel, whereas the rew doesn't. What i am trying to find out, is what parts should i use from both motors, to make a strong, reliable motor. I want to make at least 500whp from this setup, and i would have liked a half-bridge on the motor. GT40R turbocharger,1000 pri 1600 sec, power fc, walbro, fpr, fmic and the list goes on.....Any suggestions on what i should do in terms of building a motor to support that kind of setup?????? 
02-04-08, 08:11 PM
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well i was thinking half because i want to have a streetable car. The car already has a twin disk, lockup rear end, and full suspension. The car is an ex drift fc3s, and traffic here is like purgatory....I have heard some horror stories of bridgeported motors, and i was thinking maybe halfbridge would have increased the reliability slightly....sorry for thinking in a straight line...lol
02-05-08, 07:42 AM
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Make sure when you build the RE that you port out the exhausts ports as the REW has much bigger exhaust ports then RE as standard.
I know the REW has 3 window bearings and hardened stationary gears, does the RE have the same I wonder? so you may need to swap the gears/bearings across from the REW to the RE
I know the REW has 3 window bearings and hardened stationary gears, does the RE have the same I wonder? so you may need to swap the gears/bearings across from the REW to the RE
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02-05-08, 02:53 PM
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well i looked at both of the motors today, and i did see that the re has much bigger intake ports, but has smaller exhaust ports than the rew. Also i was going to use the re center plate so that i can use the mount kit to make life a lot easier in terms of dropping the engine in the car.
02-05-08, 08:41 PM
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500rwhp isn't going to need anything special as far as your engine goes. In fact, your probably better off with stock apex seals. Just clearance the engine and that will be enough.
02-05-08, 10:16 PM
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If I knew how it was done, I would being building my own ****! lol...No, its taking material off the rotors and making sure everything is in spec, as well as making the motor "loose" enough to make the power you want without rotors smaking, pinching side seals, etc...
02-10-08, 02:11 PM
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Make sure when you build the RE that you port out the exhausts ports as the REW has much bigger exhaust ports then RE as standard.
I know the REW has 3 window bearings and hardened stationary gears, does the RE have the same I wonder? so you may need to swap the gears/bearings across from the REW to the RE
I know the REW has 3 window bearings and hardened stationary gears, does the RE have the same I wonder? so you may need to swap the gears/bearings across from the REW to the RE
Do what I did and fine a blown 13b-REW and snag the exhaust sleeves. They are solid and if you ever wanted to go bigger you can port them.
02-11-08, 07:34 PM
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well guys got some bad news........upon further inspection of the re block, i've found out that the motor is blown and i think the probable cause is a broken seal. And i think you guys know what goes hand in hand with broken apex seals....so that leaves me with the rew block. I think it would have been better to use the rew block and just port match and use the re intake manifold
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