GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

ok, am I just like retarded or what? I can't rotate the oil pipe enough to clear the water line fitting. The snail rubs the intake manifold. Every weekend it's the same damn thing and a year later the stupid engine is still on the freekin hoist!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Must kill car! AhaAHhhhAHh Argh! kill turbo Ack!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

That blanket looks freekin huge! Did they forget something? How the heckle do you snug it down? It shows clips but what do you use, a chain?

FD Rey

what exhaust manifold are you using? It obviously doesn't place the turbo in a very good spot. That's the problem I was encountering with my big ol' turbo so I had to get a custom one made.

JDK

iTrader: (8)

I have the same turbo with a HKS cast manifold with no clearance issues....

FD Rey

Is he using the same manifold as you?

unvmyrx7

iTrader: (14)

i have the same kit with minimal clearance problems. i do not have that long oil return metal pipe under the chra, that seems to be your problem. you need to cut that pipe in order to rotate the compressor properly. the oil feed fitting should be facing straight up on the chra. crispy has an excellent write up on his site
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/gt35rpage1.htm
if you think you have problems now, wait until you install it in the car. the hotside almost touches the frame rail. it will definately rub with that heat blanket. i had the older style gt 35/40 kit from rpm performance, it had a higher manifold that placed the turbo where the airpump used to be , but that kit placed the downpipe too close to the wiring harness. i can take pics if you need

JDK

iTrader: (8)

Not sure, His sig. states A-Spec....Ask him if it's a complete A-Spec kit

atihun

Umm, have you tried straight down? I know your manifold is different, but I think you can point it downwards and towards the front.

Take a close (good) pic of the turbo on the engine from straight up next to the engine so we can see the clearance.

BTW. That oil pipe drain inlet on the engine should be pointing upwards.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Q: i have the same kit with minimal clearance problems. i do not have that long oil return metal pipe under the chra, that seems to be your problem. you need to cut that pipe in order to rotate the compressor properly.

R: I went to Vince's (Titanium Metulurgy) and had him reangle and reweld that pipe to rotate the CHRA. After spending all day there and getting back home for the test fit I realize the other pipe was a better choice even though I was told it was for the block. It has all the angles I need. Well almost, I will have to gring off the letters on the turbo snail to finish the clearance I need. Oh, he also grinded down the compressor snail after the polish shop said it couldn't be done. Vince 's

Q: Not sure, His sig. states A-Spec....Ask him if it's a complete A-Spec kit

R: A-Spec 500R T4 short runner manifold w/1.06 hot & .70 Comp

Q: Umm, have you tried straight down? I know your manifold is different, but I think you can point it downwards and towards the front.

R: No, the comp snail will only fit upwards, same as yours.
I was told the manifold is the same as the T3 (except flanges).

Thanks for your help, guys!

dubulup

when you get real sick of it and throw in the towel...I'll send you my address...that turbo is pretty!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Wow, look at the gap Crispy has between his (T3) compressor snail and intake?


Hmm, he has clearance for his water line to?


Ack, I have that same polished heat shield to. It doesn't look like both the shield and the blanky will fit.

Busted7

just a thought, i used a piece of 5/8 stainless tubeing with bent to fit , to replace heater core hose it looks good and never gets to hot. just a thought

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Your turbine housing is larger this requires it to sit closer to the block. That is the difference. I sent you another email again and have yet to hear back from you.

-S-

atihun

I was referring to the coolant inlet fitting; turn it downwards and forward.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Sean - The last email I got was to return for test fitting, but I want to make the April tuning session and I know how backlogged you guys are. I was able to get Vince to grind down the compressor snail for clearance. May have him do some more so I can rotate it freely. I don't think my m/c payment went through before the BOV order, can it be resubmitted?

Sorry, not putting down the kit , just extremely frustrated that I can't help myself and I blew my previous engine from not making a tune session and I don't want that to happen again.

Atila - I thought I tried that and it didn't work, will try again.

GUITARJUNKIE28

however you can get it. clocking of a coolant inlet is of zero importance, as long as it flows coolant.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Pretty sure I sent one after that. I would have got on it checked for fitment and sent it back out same day. None of the kits here are showing what your describing, that is why I wanted to see yours personally. Not saying were perfect but it is rare for there to be fitment issues, usually the car has been hit (previous owner) or some people just aren't to familiar with how to work with this stuff. I never took any of it as bashing, no worries. More like growing pains

-S-

dubulup

don't break another by rushing to make it to the tune either.

fittings can be like a japanese jigsaw puzzle...even though it was American made

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Here is my update (progress is slower then a fat snail on a rainy day up hill):

I grinded down the turbo snail and used the pipe for the block instead of the strait one. That gave me the clearance to rotate the oil pipe without hitting the hot side and angle the water line fittings. So as usual, I finish one baby step and get stuck again. Now the only way to use the water line fitting on the engine side is to rotate it the opposite way that I want (towards firewall). Nothing was open on the weekend, so that gave me free time to look for drunk college girls that must be somewhere else cause I can't find them? Oh, I also went with a strait fitting instead of the "L" extension for the oil line.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Sorry it's no help and off topic, but where did you get that turbo blanket and how much if you don't mind me asking?
It's off the hook son!

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

ok, here is the latest baby step. I went with a 45 fitting for the water intake line. That seems to work well. I can't rotate the oil pipe any more or I will not be able to get the nut on the stud. In the pic it looks like I have clearance but that is only because it is not screwd down and there is actually a gap between the tops of the flanges. I think I will switch to a 120 for the water return fitting.

dubulup

what did you do to your turbine housing?? looks like you polished it somewhat?!?! If so, why?

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

it's not realy/fully polished, just ground down for fitment. I mainly had to do the CHRA side to rotate the oil return pipe. I had him do the outside for clearance and to be smooth against the blanket. I will prolly/eventually have it heat coated so it doesn't rust away.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

yeas, only 12 hours to drop the engine in by myself (I must be improving).
I still need to bolt in the block to the trans and alaign the motor mount bolts and then I will see if the manifold lines up with the frame rail.

Ack, photobucket down. Dang, some guy was trying to talk to me when i'm under the car with a damn crowbar trying to shoe horn the ****** in and I wanted to kill him and the motor and the world while I was at it to.